Dimming headlights with no voltage drop?

Did I miss where the gain(s) are set at?
I haven't set them with a multimeter but on the pioneer amps they have a minimum to normal range and it's below the normal.
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I'm thinking about getting a volt meter asap so I can see how low my voltage is getting.. should I connect this directly to amp power and ground or straight to battery? So I can get the most accurate reading?

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I'm thinking about getting a volt meter asap so I can see how low my voltage is getting.. should I connect this directly to amp power and ground or straight to battery? So I can get the most accurate reading?
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if u wanta see what power is getting to amp with motor on check it at amp., while system bassin' will show u volt drop at amp.. check at batt will show u alt power getting to batt..

 
I'm thinking about getting a volt meter asap so I can see how low my voltage is getting.. should I connect this directly to amp power and ground or straight to battery? So I can get the most accurate reading?
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always to the amp's power and ground.

Bout your headlights, just get an HID kit. End of story. Cures dimming headlights no matter what your voltage.

 
always to the amp's power and ground.
Bout your headlights, just get an HID kit. End of story. Cures dimming headlights no matter what your voltage.
HIDs are worse if you are having dimming issues since most kits run thru the stock connector.
Its best to check if the vehicle regulator is going bad or if there is a break in the bulb woring or loose fuse box.

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always to the amp's power and ground.
Bout your headlights, just get an HID kit. End of story. Cures dimming headlights no matter what your voltage.
Thanks for your help bro
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HIDs are worse if you are having dimming issues since most kits run thru the stock connector.
Its best to check if the vehicle regulator is going bad or if there is a break in the bulb woring or loose fuse box.

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It's a brand new car so I wouldn't think the regulator is going bad. But how would I check it just to be sure?
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HIDs are worse if you are having dimming issues since most kits run thru the stock connector.
Its best to check if the vehicle regulator is going bad or if there is a break in the bulb woring or loose fuse box.

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in audio every setup ever HIDs has solved dimming head lights. The ballasts act as a buffer. Every local setup that complained about dimming headlights that did HID swaps solved their dimming issues. A lot of people on this forum and many other forum already knows its one of the best solutions especially if your volts arent dipping down to 10s and 11s.

It's a brand new car so I wouldn't think the regulator is going bad. But how would I check it just to be sure?
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multi-meter. I highly doubt it or else you'll have a much bigger problem on your hands then just dimming. If possible just add a 2nd battery to the back parallel to the 1st battery since your main battery is extremely tiny. They should help you maintain some loudness without totally screwing over your electrical system. Big 3 upgrade should help as well.

PS you do NOT need a high output alternator for a friggen 1600 rms total setup. I ran way more than that on my stock 80 amp alt on my 03 corolla with lots of batteries. Just have your battery reserve on point and big 3 and you can run almost 3-4k. You have people try to overcomplicate and tell you how sh*t works on paper trying to make you overspend while in practice, you can make things work with a lot less. Its not 100% optimal but its 100% doable.

 
It's a brand new car so I wouldn't think the regulator is going bad. But how would I check it just to be sure?
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in audio every setup ever HIDs has solved dimming head lights. The ballasts act as a buffer. Every local setup that complained about dimming headlights that did HID swaps solved their dimming issues. A lot of people on this forum and many other forum already knows its one of the best solutions especially if your volts arent dipping down to 10s and 11s.


multi-meter. I highly doubt it or else you'll have a much bigger problem on your hands then just dimming. If possible just add a 2nd battery to the back parallel to the 1st battery since your main battery is extremely tiny. They should help you maintain some loudness without totally screwing over your electrical system. Big 3 upgrade should help as well.

PS you do NOT need a high output alternator for a friggen 1600 rms total setup. I ran way more than that on my stock 80 amp alt on my 03 corolla with lots of batteries. Just have your battery reserve on point and big 3 and you can run almost 3-4k. You have people try to overcomplicate and tell you how sh*t works on paper trying to make you overspend while in practice, you can make things work with a lot less. Its not 100% optimal but its 100% doable.
That what he said its self is the reason for the dimming.
2016+ vehicles run at a lower voltage at the get go due to newer electrical systems and trickle charging.

So yes a hid should help since it can operate at lower voltages.

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Alright thanks guys. My next step is big 3 and volts meter and some lights possibly. Will leds work or just hid?

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What type of meter are you using to test your voltage? Some meters don't have a fast enough refresh rate to accurately see how fast your voltage is actually moving.

My rinky dink CT sounds meter will read 14.3 but when the bass does a little hit ill drop to 13.4 then back to 14+ on my other meter and my CT meter never even moved .1v during that time. Its just not fast enough.

Why you are having RPM drop is unknown to me... I've never had rpm drop from bass or from pulls of current.. Or at least I don't notice it if that even does happen.

I will add that my headlights will dim even at the slightest bit of voltage drop. If you want to fix this you will need HIDs (i think).
CT sounds. Lol

some companies just get a business to sell any and everything they can put their name on

 
DO NOT throw hids or leds in your halogen reflector headlights.. It is NOT a fix for voltage drop and not legal. They aren't designed for reflector headlights and will scatter light every where instead of the factory focal point where the light should be.

Ive been building projector retrofitted headlights for 9 years now. You need to do the big 3 and get a relay harness for your headlights. The factory wiring is terrible.

 
DO NOT throw hids or leds in your halogen reflector headlights.. It is NOT a fix for voltage drop and not legal. They aren't designed for reflector headlights and will scatter light every where instead of the factory focal point where the light should be.
Ive been building projector retrofitted headlights for 9 years now. You need to do the big 3 and get a relay harness for your headlights. The factory wiring is terrible.
I will get the stuff for big 3. I might have enough zero gauge from install to do it. I already have the battery grounded with zero gauge just need to do the other two. I looked for that relay harness but couldn't find one. I'll check again and post back to see if that is the right one..
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That what he said its self is the reason for the dimming.
2016+ vehicles run at a lower voltage at the get go due to newer electrical systems and trickle charging.

So yes a hid should help since it can operate at lower voltages.

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I forgot to update but I installed a xs d4 700 up front and I get less dimming and less rpm drop now but still a little if I turn it up loud at idle. Before I changed the battery it would dim while driving a bit but kind of hard to notice cause it doesn't dim too much just for a moment and then right back to normal. Now with new battery it doesn't seem to dim while driving at all. I'll do the big 3 before anything else then go from there

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I forgot to update but I installed a xs d4 700 up front and I get less dimming and less rpm drop now but still a little if I turn it up loud at idle. Before I changed the battery it would dim while driving a bit but kind of hard to notice cause it doesn't dim too much just for a moment and then right back to normal. Now with new battery it doesn't seem to dim while driving at all. I'll do the big 3 before anything else then go from there

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Thats because the xs has more reserve to power your lights at a higher voltage until it runs dry and drops.
If you dont want to go hid or led then you can add a inline capacitor.

The only thing that will really remedy this issue is to get an external regulator or rebuilt alternator or add a diode if the vehicle doesnt have a battery temp sensor.

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