Did Big 3 Plus New Batterys Alt Not Cuttin It

[fbi90909 5,000+ posts]

you must be doing shit wrong.

i ran 2 batts(G51small battery engine - redtop trunk) on an honda 80amp alt for 2 years pushing 2k. no problems with alt or voltage

i'm now running 3.5k with the same stock g51 size battery and a kinetik hc2400 still with the 80amp alt. and it's still pushing strong. i now have an 180ho alt that came in today. i will be getting it tested before i mount it but dood. even for 2 k and 2 bats you shouldn't have any issues.

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

how do you know how much power your amp will draw

 

[Got_Bass89 10+ year member]

Lol not really doing anything wrong kinda hard to screw up by just connected back pos to back amp and grounded to frame... My stock alt is a weak 60amp and just couldn't keep 2 bats charged at 14+v... Some vehicles are just different then others alot of stock alts and bigger than mine too...

 

[ashunte23 10+ year member]

ok cool i'll wait for the pics, cause the wires i've seen can't be the right ones!

 

[Got_Bass89 10+ year member]

Ya going over to my aunts right now to get digi camera... So hopfully pics up in few hours

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

My stock alt doing fine with 2k rms lowest drop ive had was 13.9... and that was slammin... 0guage helps alot

1/0 does help but running 2k on a stock alt and a yellow top will not reduce dimming and voltage drop. I'm curious to know what amperage your alternator is. In my '01 Accord on the stock 90A alt with an HC 1400 under the hood and 1/0 I would get some dimming with a Treo SSX 1500.1 wired at 4 ohms (seeing about 750w).

Some stock alternators have quite a bit of amperage so stating that you can run XXXX amount of watts and having just the big 3 and upgraded battery doesn't mean it will work for everyone.

And you guys gotta remember upgrading to a HO alt its only HO when your rpms are high.. When your just at idle theres not much of a difference from the stock. But ya when you rev it up that HO alt pumpin some juice

Not true. If you have a shitty alternator then it probably will put out the same at idle. A good alternator will put out more amperage at idle than a stock alternator. You are right though, it's the idle amperage that really matters.

As for the alternator, a GM one MIGHT work. Contact the guys over at http://www.qualitypowerauto.com. I got my alternator from them and was referred to them by a friend. Originally they were about 5 mins from my house but they moved their facility to about an hour away. I also got my Odyssey batteries from them. I talked to Rich...he's a cool guy and very helpful.

 

[SPL Blazer 10+ year member]

And you guys gotta remember upgrading to a HO alt its only HO when your rpms are high.. When your just at idle theres not much of a difference from the stock. But ya when you rev it up that HO alt pumpin some juice

Not always true. It depends on how your HO alt is made. I bought an Excessive Amperage 200 amp alt and it puts out 30 amps at idle, compared to my stock one that puts out 60 at idle. You can also have them made to put out half the output at idle too. If you buy the right one or have it custom made you can have the full 200 amps output at idle.

 

[SPL Blazer 10+ year member]

I also run a Yellow Top under the hood with the big 3 done, 105 amp stock alt still kickin. I run around 1600-2200 watts daily and have never had a dimming issue. All the wires are 0 ga and I added a Kinetik 2400 to the rear along with 0 ga (+) and (-) a few months ago and still on the stiock alt and still no issues. No excessively hot alt, no voltage drops, no dimming. If your voltage was worse after adding the second battery than you did something wrong when you installed it.

 

[Got_Bass89 10+ year member]

Ya ok thats true blazer but donpisto im gonna have to say your way off.. MOST almost all HO alts put out the same or less amperage at idle as your stock just like in blazer's case but you can have them specially made that is true... But most people rev there truck up to bass at idle anyways just like steve meade.. Hes running 4 HO alts and he still revs his to get that HO... and as for my question i was just hoping someone on here might beable to tell me quickly instead of bothering Iraggi

 

[Got_Bass89 10+ year member]

Oh and aunt took camera with her on vacation so pics have to wait sorry..

 

[Got_Bass89 10+ year member]

Oh ya forgot my buddy took few pics and vids of my system yesterday and i think he got one of all my wiring.. He posts on smd though but ill post link when he does..

 

[iamamp3pimp 5,000+ posts]

nobody said u needed a new alt and batts for 2k lol...
the reason its suggested is that people have a tendency to upgrade, and its easier to get it out of the way at the beginning.

i know a guythat spend a thousand on his elec because of these forums

i spent about 80 bucks on mine.

8 batts (5 of them are duralast marine deep cycles) and another 70 on wire for it all

stock alt and my voltage stays at 12.4 while i crank it....

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

Ya umm i think my yellowtop was a group 24 or 34 i can check for sure later...
As for blue top i asked optima if its as strong as a yellowtop and they said its not cuz i coulda got a bluetop for cheap off buddy too but i wanted stronger.

And as for pics i plan on taking some tomorrow cuz when i was searching for big 3 pics i couldnt find jack... Ill get some pics to you just gotta figure out how to post on here... You'll see that stock ground going down from your bat to the alt casing(engine block) then to the chassis. Hella little wire i know... But the wire going to chassis the bolt is too little to put 3 terminals on( I stripped it lol) So just put my stock ground back to the little bolt and did the 0guage with a bolt and nut threw the hole little farther back. Pretty easy but will take 2 people for that part. Ya ill pm you when i take pics...

you were mis-informed then, or not specific enough... 1 of the 3 bluetops is for cranking.. its specs are 800/1000... the other 2 are deep cycle.. if you go to the main site and go to specs/tech it will tell ya all about them.. the 34M is just a starter...the D31M and D34M are deepcycle.. D=deep cycle.. They are the EXACT SAME specs/performance as the Yellowtops. Costco has both of them for the exact same GREAT PRICE.. $155!!!

 

[SPL Blazer 10+ year member]

i know a guythat spend a thousand on his elec because of these forums
i spent about 80 bucks on mine.

8 batts (5 of them are duralast marine deep cycles) and another 70 on wire for it all

stock alt and my voltage stays at 12.4 while i crank it....

lol, please tell me you aren't bragging about this. I spent a couple hundred between the 4 yr old Optima, the Kinetik 2400 and 0 ga wire and I never see the voltage drop below 13.5 volts when cranked.

 

[meade916 10+ year member]

i didnt read ALL the responses......but i can tell you that if the alt got SUPER HOT after installing that back battery, that means that back battery is bad or deeply discharged. Give them a solid trickle charge over night and then try again, you should be fine (unless the battery is damaged).