Diamond Audio, Rainbow, or CDT?

If I was to run the component set active, would that render the crossover useless? I'm not sure how an active hookup works.

 
Im in the same boat as u man.... only difference is imma have alot of bass so not only do i want that in ur face but i need something that can keep up with the bass.... Someone told me to look into the new SLC NG"S but i have also been looking at cdt

 
I've been looking at CDT also, and I think I may go with new CDT M6 woofer with a pair of tweeters and run them actively with an eq. Not sure yet, cause that sounds quite a bit expensive. But completely worth it if it sounds amazing... which from what I here, it should.

 
If I was to run the component set active, would that render the crossover useless? I'm not sure how an active hookup works.
You can buy an active set without a crossover if you want. They aremuch less expensive. Active is using a processor to cross over your speakers individually. It requires an amplified channel per speaker. If you don't plan on getting a processor or your HU isn't capable of running active, stick with the passive crossover.

 
I've been looking at CDT also, and I think I may go with new CDT M6 woofer with a pair of tweeters and run them actively with an eq. Not sure yet, cause that sounds quite a bit expensive. But completely worth it if it sounds amazing... which from what I here, it should.
I hve always wanted to go active, just too lazy for now. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I have heard once you go that way, you never go back to passive.

 
IF you think you'll be going active any time in the near future, PLEASE do not get the CDT drivers.

I'm only saying this to try and save you money, but the CDT drivers are re-badged Tymphany products, usually Vifa more specifically. If you're going to run active, you can buy the raw drivers for a fraction of the cost of the CDT set, and you're getting a nearly identical product.

I'm not certain which drivers they use exactly, but head over to diymobileaudio.com and search for a thread on CDT, it covers I believe everything you would need to know.

 
Wait, you're telling me if I run it active, I can get the speakers and tweeters much cheaper? Why the hell are they so expensive then in a set? Am I just paying for the name and crossover then? Why doesn't everyone just buy the raw drivers then?

I've looked into the raw drivers such as seas, morels, scanspeak, and madisound, but the prices seemed so cheap i thought it meant the quality of the products wasn't as good as CDT or rainbows. Am I wrong there?

 
Wait, you're telling me if I run it active, I can get the speakers and tweeters much cheaper? Why the hell are they so expensive then in a set? Am I just paying for the name and crossover then? Why doesn't everyone just buy the raw drivers then?
I've looked into the raw drivers such as seas, morels, scanspeak, and madisound, but the prices seemed so cheap i thought it meant the quality of the products wasn't as good as CDT or rainbows. Am I wrong there?
Yep, thats pretty much exactly what I'm telling you. I guess you could say you're paying for the research that went into designing the set to work together out of the box. IMO in CDT's case, you're paying for a name, and I can't justify it at all. When buying them as a component set, you have the simplicity of just installing them and getting away with minimal tunning. Running active does require a bit more work, but it's really not difficult at all.

Lol, I'd say it's a slight misconception. I have no experience with CDT or Rainbow personally, but I have used Tymphany drivers before (Parent company of Peerless, Vifa, Scan-Speak), and I can say from my own experience that there isn't much better out there when it comes to raw drivers.

 
Dont forget that going active can be a lot more work tuning and you have to have the right equipment to make it sound the way it should, I suggest you buy a regular set and then if you want to try it you can just not use the crossovers and sell them later. Also, with going active you will need a 4 ch amp instead of the 2ch amp. What amp and HU do you have?

If you go active and want CDT I'd suggest the M6+(if you can build a .25cuft pod) if not, the M6 woofer (in a well sealed door) and the new ES-02 tweeter. Its a kick azz setup!

PM me for more info.

 
Thanks about the CDT suggestion, but the raw drivers idea sounds attractive cause its cheaper. Also, I have the alpine 9847, which I am almost poisitive does not have active processing. Can I not buy a processer or crossover or equalizer (I'm not sure which one I need)? Or would a new HU altogether be the best way to go?

 
careful, there's only so much truth to all that. people have dug up vifa drivers that they say are thee same, when in reality they're not or not even close. CDT's stuff is built for a car environment, IB. Vifa is built for home audio setups. major difference there. secondly, all the new stuff is tooled in house. sure the ES-01 bears some resemblance to a certain vifa driver...ES-01 is outdated and being replaced with a brand new driver that was designed in house. ES-02, M6, M6+, etc.......there are no other companies involved besides CDT. you won't find other versions of those drivers. i can't speak for some of the stuff in the past, but all the new stuff is CDT's own. they were designed and built by Ken, and they're not built for any other company or application.

 
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