You can buy an active set without a crossover if you want. They aremuch less expensive. Active is using a processor to cross over your speakers individually. It requires an amplified channel per speaker. If you don't plan on getting a processor or your HU isn't capable of running active, stick with the passive crossover.If I was to run the component set active, would that render the crossover useless? I'm not sure how an active hookup works.
I hve always wanted to go active, just too lazy for now. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I have heard once you go that way, you never go back to passive.I've been looking at CDT also, and I think I may go with new CDT M6 woofer with a pair of tweeters and run them actively with an eq. Not sure yet, cause that sounds quite a bit expensive. But completely worth it if it sounds amazing... which from what I here, it should.
Yep, thats pretty much exactly what I'm telling you. I guess you could say you're paying for the research that went into designing the set to work together out of the box. IMO in CDT's case, you're paying for a name, and I can't justify it at all. When buying them as a component set, you have the simplicity of just installing them and getting away with minimal tunning. Running active does require a bit more work, but it's really not difficult at all.Wait, you're telling me if I run it active, I can get the speakers and tweeters much cheaper? Why the hell are they so expensive then in a set? Am I just paying for the name and crossover then? Why doesn't everyone just buy the raw drivers then?
I've looked into the raw drivers such as seas, morels, scanspeak, and madisound, but the prices seemed so cheap i thought it meant the quality of the products wasn't as good as CDT or rainbows. Am I wrong there?