Deciphering sub specs to determine what is "better"?

[Dave88LX 10+ year member]

Better being relative of course.

Say you have a budget for a subwoofer, you've decided on your size. You are looking at 3 or 4 subs in your price range. What specs do you look at and how do you interpret them to decide what in fact makes one better quality or better sounding than another?

Thank you...

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[hispls 5,000+ posts]

OK, plug all the specs into a design program and see which models into the response you're after in a box size that's acceptable to you.

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Honestly most of it comes down to actually using the sub and seeing how it performs...Personally I don't like modeling programs because your car will change so much of the response the graph it shows you can be misleading. I know this isn't the answer you're looking for but it is what it is lol

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

OK, plug all the specs into a design program and see which models into the response you're after in a box size that's acceptable to you.

huh....I thought it came down to what the basket and motor looks like....OMG..

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

OK, plug all the specs into a design program and see which models into the response you're after in a box size that's acceptable to you.

^this...if it is a 15" sub that needs 5 cubes, you might want to model a different one if space is an issue.......

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

huh....I thought it came down to what the basket and motor looks like....OMG..

Chrome is only used in a tiebreaker.

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

If your like me, I always buy an amp and end up having to find subs that will work with my amp. Assbackwards

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

If your like me, I always buy an amp and end up having to find subs that will work with my amp. Assbackwards

huh, seriously..I do that. I put more research into finding the right amp first..subs usually come in enough flavors that matching them to an amp is no problem.

are you trolling?

 

---------- Post added at 03:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:51 PM ----------

 

Chrome is only used in a tiebreaker.

lol...I seen that happen.

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

huh, seriously..I do that. I put more research into finding the right amp first..subs usually come in enough flavors that matching them to an amp is no problem.


are you trolling?

 

 

 

 

---------- Post added at 03:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:51 PM ----------

 

lol...I seen that happen.

lol, no. Just bored as hell at work

 

[perferd 10+ year member]

huh, seriously..I do that. I put more research into finding the right amp first..subs usually come in enough flavors that matching them to an amp is no problem.


are you trolling?

 

---------- Post added at 03:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:51 PM ----------

 

lol...I seen that happen.

I did it this way cause of the spot I have to put the amp in...however I found the subs first before finally picking my amp lol

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

i usually decide what i am going to use the settup for(sounding great, getting loud, or just a bit of bump in the case of the misses car) then i look at the space i have available.

once i figure out what im going to use it for and how much space i have i pick a size based on how much space i have. for example, my first settup was a single 10 in a sealed 1 cube on ~200W, just wanted some bump. my next settup was a single 12 ported at 40, wanted to be louder. next it was 2 10s ported at ~31 wanted to be loud but wanted to play low as well. currently im running nothing in my car, but im building my Home Theater settup and im going to run 2 8s ported between 16hz and 20hz in ~2.7 cubes each.

each of these examples i did some research and looked for subs that performed well in the enclosure i was going to use. the single 10 was a JL 10W0v1 the single 12 was a Kicker CVR(i beleive, been forever. might have been a diferent model. had a bright *** silverish cone tho) and then a Type ARGH 12. i cant remember what the 10s were honestly.... and the 8s im goign to use in my HT are ID8v3s. i used several box "modeling" programs to decide what sub to use. and after i got down to 2 choices i always came here and posted for the final say.

Matt

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Better being relative of course.
Say you have a budget for a subwoofer, you've decided on your size. You are looking at 3 or 4 subs in your price range. What specs do you look at and how do you interpret them to decide what in fact makes one better quality or better sounding than another?

Thank you...

that really is a good question. I look at the overall construction, try to pull up close up pics of the sub to look closely for things like stitched surrounds, cone material, visible cooling vents and surround material/construction. RMS wattage, frequency response, and VC configuration/construction is next. A glance at the TSP's to make sure the driver has sufficient xmax, Qts is ok for the box type, BL factor is glanced at, FS frequency, and efficiency. I try to find the most TSP data I can, any sub without readily available and sufficient Theale Small Parameters is automatically kicked to the curb...and then plug the TSP's into a program such as WINISD and model the box size and tune to see how the sub acts in the box I have in mind...and then play....look some more, play some more...and then pretty much just comes down to a particular combination of construction and good modeling performance.

Hang around here and ask questions about particular subs you are interested in to get a feel of how they handle power...just about any sub worth it's salt has been run through the ringer by someone here

a good example of the above..many people run 1,500 - 2000 watts rms to this sub in daily systems, but you might not know it without hanging out here..

American Bass - XFL1244

and it actually received a good performance review here:

PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - American Bass XFL1244 Subwoofer

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

I usually read reviews, pick a sub brand, model, and size that I want to try, read more, compare the reviews to similar subs, ask qusetions, pick one and buy it then before I get it installed start the process over so in 3 months I can do another install and repeat. The only way to truely know is to try them. Modeling and reviews work but there are too many factors that make it impossible to find the perfect sub for what you are wanting without trying them all in various sizes and enclosure types.

Boxes make a huge difference...small sealed, large ported, bandpass, sub up/port back, sub back/port side, sub up/port up, high tuning, low tuning, etc.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

I usually read reviews, pick a sub brand, model, and size that I want to try, read more, compare the reviews to similar subs, ask qusetions, pick one and buy it then before I get it installed start the process over so in 3 months I can do another install and repeat. The only way to truely know is to try them. Modeling and reviews work but there are too many factors that make it impossible to find the perfect sub for what you are wanting without trying them all in various sizes and enclosure types.
Boxes make a huge difference...small sealed, large ported, bandpass, sub up/port back, sub back/port side, sub up/port up, high tuning, low tuning, etc.

This too, if you do not mind buying them...all the modeling in the world will not replicate how a sub will actually sound once it is installed and in operation...but it is very useful in doing comparisons of different subs in the same size box.

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

I look at my electrical to see how much wattage it can handle for the amp and get subs to match with the amp I am looking at.