DDZ1A for....................

No no.... He might have been confusing the two, but the Z1A is not any less vulnerable (more as a matter of fact) than the Z1. If I remember right, I got the pics last time I worked on a Z1, the FETs are angled. The FETs in the Z1A are straight up and down with clips. The Z1 problems were related to the Power supply drive/control board and the output drive board. All those boards have gone away and have been changed since the Z1. Geez that was a decade ago it seems....
You know better then me man, I was just going by what i have seen in competition, lots of Z1s not making it very long where as teh Z1as seem to last but then agian I am only accounting for a small area of the US.

 
DC = Zenon. So should be good stuff too.
The DD Z1A is not in the same class as the amplifiers you mentioned above for the person to try. None will touch the output. The SAZ-3500D is the only one you mentioned that has the same size output section as the Z1A. The others are smaller, like the SAZ-3000D was.
I recommended those if he was looking for less power //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif If you like the DD amps the DD m3 is a rock solid option as well

 
My buddy has a Z1a that we clamped and @ actual 2.5 ohms(wired to .5) @ 11.5 volts we got just under 3500 watts out of it and yes the Z1a's will break from vibration easier. Had one then switched to M3s and couldnt be happier.Z1A was mounted on floor in front of wall(had no other place to fit this big thing LOL) Broke 3 times dues to the vibration it was getting so me and DD worked out a deal on some M3's. D9 are also rated @ 3600 watts @ 1ohm but I know they really come alive on 16 volt systems.

 
I think I am the only amp repair shop guy that is brave enough to get on here and post stuff. Anytime I have ever seen any of the other ones do it is only to cool down or make a statement regarding a massive f-up. I'd rather hash it out with everyone everyday. I don't really care what other people think about me, I do care what they think about my work though.... I don't hear many complaints and usually when something I have worked on fails again it's not my fault, and can be tracked back to something really intermittent like a transformer winding short which nothing can be done about on my bench if it's not shorted on my bench... I wiggle them alot, but if no sparks, then no short, and it goes out the door....

I don't like the work some other shops have done. Have had many of them send stuff here and it looks really bad, and mismatched brands of parts in parallel groups etc... you just don't do that kind of stuff, it's bad business.... Causing peoples amps to go out the first week they get it back... You have to do it right or don't do it at all, and that's my approach. It's why we turn away amps that are "full of problems or potential problems" and don't even bother trying to repair them because even if done right it's a 50/50 shot of it coming back... I don't like doing warranty work....

 
Just wanted to state also, that there are a few shops out there who's work I have seen and it's fantastic. But problem is those are small time shops or they don't deal with the net or the public much, and also problem with this is the only time I get stuff from other shops it's the ones that I have seen some of their work before and saw things that I personally would not do..... So it's hard for me to recommend other shops for that reason. Only a few I can live with recommending.

 
You mean 5750.1? I am pretty sure that is also the same on the inside. But I have not seen one of those insides in a while...

 
It blows my mind that people still base ANY of their buying/use decisions based on rated power output.... LOL.. you guys are WAAAYYYY too trusting. This is why we need the "Clamp Challenge".

 
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