dayton

thanks..now heres another comparison question: would they sound better than type-x's? also what cross overs and amp would you suggest and should i go active or passive
i'd recommend you go active. get a new headunit the offers 3-way xover and you have much more flexability over your system.

 
i'd recommend you go active. get a new headunit the offers 3-way xover and you have much more flexability over your system.
**** this car audio takes so much money..lol..so now id have to sell my h/u take a loss on that and buy a more expensive one and then buy the mids, tweeters, cross overs, and a amp, i think im going to spend to much money

 
**** this car audio takes so much money..lol..so now id have to sell my h/u take a loss on that and buy a more expensive one and then buy the mids, tweeters, cross overs, and a amp, i think im going to spend to much money
then you are probably better off getting a set of components now. getting a passive xover made for your mids and tweeters maybe costly, but idk for sure, so you maybe better off with components

 
It's the second one. The non-sheilded 4ohm version.

**** this car audio takes so much money..lol..so now id have to sell my h/u take a loss on that and buy a more expensive one and then buy the mids, tweeters, cross overs, and a amp, i think im going to spend to much money
The HU you buy would have the processing you need, so the xover would be taken care of.

You need:

-HU with Active Processing

-Mids

-Tweets

-4 channels of amplification

nG

 
The first link is the 8 ohm version, the second link is the 4 ohm. The 4 ohm doesn't have the shield, so that's the one you want to use.

The Dayton RS series is some of the best bang for the buck speakers out there. However, with the low cost comes some compromises. They have some pretty bad cone breakup. The RS180 (7") breakup starts at about 3 khz. That's pretty low, and takes some considerable crossover work to deal with. So, the driver is really only useable to about 2 khz, with at minimum 18 db slope. Also, finding a compact dome tweeter that can handle 2 khz isn't easy. The Seas Neo will do it, and is inexpensive at about $30.00 a tweeter, but you're pretty much limited to that. Not that it's bad. That setup will knock your socks off, especially for the price. You just don't have any choice, unless you go much more expensive, or use a larger format tweeter.

All that being said, having a properly designed 18 or 24db passive crossover built for you won't be cheap. Going active won't be cheap either. Getting a boxed component set is easiest, but the results won't be as good.

You don't need a new head unit to do active. You do however need an external active crossover, and an extra 2 channels of amplification. The extra channels don't need to be high power, as it's usually just used for the tweeter, and they don't need much power. 50 x 2 is plenty for a tweeter.

Here's an example of a decent outboard active crossover.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/USED-Coustic-XM-5e-Mobile-Electronic-Crossover_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38642QQitemZ200087051061QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I actually own one of those, and it works very well.

If you're looking for more information on active tuning, and DIY speakers in general (especially the RS180), check out http://www.diymobileaudio.com

 
The first link is the 8 ohm version, the second link is the 4 ohm. The 4 ohm doesn't have the shield, so that's the one you want to use.
The Dayton RS series is some of the best bang for the buck speakers out there. However, with the low cost comes some compromises. They have some pretty bad cone breakup. The RS180 (7") breakup starts at about 3 khz. That's pretty low, and takes some considerable crossover work to deal with. So, the driver is really only useable to about 2 khz, with at minimum 18 db slope. Also, finding a compact dome tweeter that can handle 2 khz isn't easy. The Seas Neo will do it, and is inexpensive at about $30.00 a tweeter, but you're pretty much limited to that. Not that it's bad. That setup will knock your socks off, especially for the price. You just don't have any choice, unless you go much more expensive, or use a larger format tweeter.

All that being said, having a properly designed 18 or 24db passive crossover built for you won't be cheap. Going active won't be cheap either. Getting a boxed component set is easiest, but the results won't be as good.

You don't need a new head unit to do active. You do however need an external active crossover, and an extra 2 channels of amplification. The extra channels don't need to be high power, as it's usually just used for the tweeter, and they don't need much power. 50 x 2 is plenty for a tweeter.

Here's an example of a decent outboard active crossover.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/USED-Coustic-XM-5e-Mobile-Electronic-Crossover_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38642QQitemZ200087051061QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I actually own one of those, and it works very well.

If you're looking for more information on active tuning, and DIY speakers in general (especially the RS180), check out www.diymobileaudio.com
I shouldn't need to, but I can personally say that MiniVanMan really knows his shit when it comes to front stage. I've heard his system before, and the sq was very impressive considering staging in that type of vehicle.

He's one of the og's on diyma.com. Gary, if you would like me to leave feedback for our past transaction, LMK. I just hadn't seen you one here since then, so I left it for you on diyma.

 
I shouldn't need to, but I can personally say that MiniVanMan really knows his shit when it comes to front stage. I've heard his system before, and the sq was very impressive considering staging in that type of vehicle.
He's one of the og's on diyma.com. Gary, if you would like me to leave feedback for our past transaction, LMK. I just hadn't seen you one here since then, so I left it for you on diyma.
Thanks Jordan! Saying that, I can tell you that my front stage has zero EQ applied, and the crossover is the same model I posted in the ebay link above.

Going active can be inexpensive.

 
**** this car audio takes so much money..lol..so now id have to sell my h/u take a loss on that and buy a more expensive one and then buy the mids, tweeters, cross overs, and a amp, i think im going to spend to much money
So you don't even know which model they are or nothing about them? You might just wanna chill with a decent set of 6.5's and swap your stocks for now. You think a pair of Daytons and a crossover is expensive?!?! You got a looong road ahead of ya brother!

 
wiw thanks everyone for your imput, that us a lot of information. i think i would like to try and go the way of not buying a componenet set but keeping my current head unit for now. so if i do this then i will need a crossover similar to the one in the ebay listing ( do i need one or two, and how about rainbow cross overs i know someone selling some ), the dayton mids ( i guess thats the second link ), tweeters, and a 4 channel amp. is this right? how much in total do you guys think this will cost to get a pretty good sounding set up? once again thanks for all your help, i really appreciate it, im trying to learn this stuff, slowly

 
So you don't even know which model they are or nothing about them? You might just wanna chill with a decent set of 6.5's and swap your stocks for now. You think a pair of Daytons and a crossover is expensive?!?! You got a looong road ahead of ya brother!
i was just talking with a friend on another forum who got them and he sent me the link but i didnt have it in front of me so i was trying to remeber which one they were so i wasnt sure. yeah i overspent when i did my sub and amp but i am recovering from that.

 
as already mentioned before, the seas neo tweet match very well with the dayton. If you are on a tight budget, get a decent amp with a good internal crossover, this will most likely be less expensive than say a new headunit or an external active crossover. Also designing a good passive crossover takes skill and effort. I really would not reccomend it for a begginer diyer.\

good luck

 
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