Dayton ho 10 are too easy to bottom out

deez283

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Try reversing the polarity on one of the subs for $hits and giggles.
 

winkychevelle

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Try reversing the polarity on one of the subs for $hits and giggles.
This is not an issue

Nice looking box but I'd also worry that the port and subs all being where they are might be trouble. Have you attempted to thoroughly seal the port and see how that performs?
I will try that next though i doubt the port placement is an issue

Bro you got a pair of subs in close to what 1 calls for and are still wondering why it don't sound right?

2.5 cubes with 15" of slot port per cube and you would be golden.

I know for a fact no pair of 6.5's out there could out perform my HO 10's lol..

Did you model these at all?
whats cone excursion look like and port velocity?
Have you? Because these subs are lauded as being the premier small box sub. Parts express recommends .5 at 36hz for them. It used to be 1.25 at 28hz till people started throwing them in car then parts express shrunk the box sized to better contend with the car environment


Far as going to a larger box thats easy enough. Yank the foam filler and change the port to 6inch and i can be a 2.67 at 30hz.

But .7 at 30hz is the most common box for these subs thus why i tried it first
 

winkychevelle

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deez283

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You got it wrong my friend the "touted" small box subs are the SVC version.. Yes I have these in .5 each

You stated you have the DVC which is a different animal..

Also to add Parts express reccomends 1.5 per sub for the DVC version.

People have had the DVC and SVC specs confused for years it's nothing new..

Sounds like you got everything under control good luck.
 

SlugButter

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With the reference series 10 I ran a frequency sweep and isolated the rattling between the 37-44 hz frequencies. It doesn’t rattle below that or above that as easily. It is getting right over RMS power to get it to make noise. Does this in both ported boxes I have. 1.2 @ 33 HZ and 1.3 @ 30 HZ. It’s also beginning to see a clipped signal as it happens according to the amplifier clip light. Dayton recommends 1.5 @ 40 HZ for this sub. So, right in that frequency range where I get the tinging sound is where port tuning is recommended for this sub for car audio use by Dayton. Not sure if it’s just coincidence.
 

winkychevelle

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I just tried the 1.4 sealed and other than losing a bit of output i still get bottoming on on the subs. Guess next time i have off ill pull the filler and put in a 6inch port but i dont think that will ultimately fix my problem i feel like different subs are going to be the way to go.

Really wish i could find a set of dd 2510s but they stopped making those a few years ago.
 

winkychevelle

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With the reference series 10 I ran a frequency sweep and isolated the rattling between the 37-44 hz frequencies. It doesn’t rattle below that or above that as easily. It is getting right over RMS power to get it to make noise. Does this in both ported boxes I have. 1.2 @ 33 HZ and 1.3 @ 30 HZ. It’s also beginning to see a clipped signal as it happens according to the amplifier clip light. Dayton recommends 1.5 @ 40 HZ for this sub. So, right in that frequency range where I get the tinging sound is where port tuning is recommended for this sub for car audio use by Dayton. Not sure if it’s just coincidence.
Im mean its possible that it but i really sounds like bottoming out. Like said earlier ill try the 2.67 at 31-36hz later but im working 6-6 nights right now so i dont have time to readjust the box.

Im not tuning to 40hz if they need that they can go in the garbage. I just dont want to damage these subs id rather sell them before i damage them even at a loss.

If any normal sub company like sundown, dd, ia, ssa, and so on had grills available i probably wouldve never even messed with these in the first place. Might just bite the bullet and run a pair of subs with no grills.
 

hispls

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I just tried the 1.4 sealed and other than losing a bit of output i still get bottoming on on the subs. Guess next time i have off ill pull the filler and put in a 6inch port but i dont think that will ultimately fix my problem i feel like different subs are going to be the way to go.
If 1.4 cube sealed still lets you bottom out then yes, you obviously just need a more robust woofer.
 

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