Try reversing the polarity on one of the subs for $hits and giggles.
Nice looking box but I'd also worry that the port and subs all being where they are might be trouble. Have you attempted to thoroughly seal the port and see how that performs?
Bro you got a pair of subs in close to what 1 calls for and are still wondering why it don't sound right?
2.5 cubes with 15" of slot port per cube and you would be golden.
I know for a fact no pair of 6.5's out there could out perform my HO 10's lol..
Did you model these at all?
whats cone excursion look like and port velocity?
With the reference series 10 I ran a frequency sweep and isolated the rattling between the 37-44 hz frequencies. It doesn’t rattle below that or above that as easily. It is getting right over RMS power to get it to make noise. Does this in both ported boxes I have. 1.2 @ 33 HZ and 1.3 @ 30 HZ. It’s also beginning to see a clipped signal as it happens according to the amplifier clip light. Dayton recommends 1.5 @ 40 HZ for this sub. So, right in that frequency range where I get the tinging sound is where port tuning is recommended for this sub for car audio use by Dayton. Not sure if it’s just coincidence.
If 1.4 cube sealed still lets you bottom out then yes, you obviously just need a more robust woofer.I just tried the 1.4 sealed and other than losing a bit of output i still get bottoming on on the subs. Guess next time i have off ill pull the filler and put in a 6inch port but i dont think that will ultimately fix my problem i feel like different subs are going to be the way to go.