Dayton ho 10 are too easy to bottom out


winkychevelle

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After spending a week building the box and putting everything together ive come up with an issue

These dayton ho 10s bottom out incredibly easily

Low notes where box programs predict the most excursion arent a problem. Its the pulse notes like a kick drum that bottoms them out or higher frequencies.

Box is 1.4 at 34hz it was at 30hz but the problem was worse

Amp is a dd d5.1500 so 1500w at 1ohm to the 2 10s. Crossovers are 64hz lowpass 24db and 30hz subsonic at 12db. No bass boost or eq.

Only thing i thought was questionable when i build the box was the 4inch aero for 2 10s but thats almost 9in² per cube of port area which is normal imo. Port terminates at pretty much the exact middle of the box and side fires at driverside rear door.

Other than buying high excursion subs i dont see a way of fixing this issue.

I figured 2 10inch ho would be louder than 2 dd 506 but it doesnt seem possible without bottomimg the subs out. Which is crasy because both subs supposed have very similar x max capabilities.
 

SlugButter

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After spending a week building the box and putting everything together ive come up with an issue

These dayton ho 10s bottom out incredibly easily

Low notes where box programs predict the most excursion arent a problem. Its the pulse notes like a kick drum that bottoms them out or higher frequencies.

Box is 1.4 at 34hz it was at 30hz but the problem was worse

Amp is a dd d5.1500 so 1500w at 1ohm to the 2 10s. Crossovers are 64hz lowpass 24db and 30hz subsonic at 12db. No bass boost or eq.

Only thing i thought was questionable when i build the box was the 4inch aero for 2 10s but thats almost 9in² per cube of port area which is normal imo. Port terminates at pretty much the exact middle of the box and side fires at driverside rear door.

Other than buying high excursion subs i dont see a way of fixing this issue.

I figured 2 10inch ho would be louder than 2 dd 506 but it doesnt seem possible without bottomimg the subs out. Which is crasy because both subs supposed have very similar x max capabilities.
I actually found that most Dayton subs like sealed enclosures. I think I know exactly what your hearing. When it goes over excursion , do you hear a distinct rattling sound? Metal on metal sound?
 

SlugButter

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My HO 10 rattled fairly loud when it went over xmax. The reference high excursion sub I have now rattles the same way. The ultimax did the same thing.
 

deez283

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You have single or dual 4 ohm subs?

I have a pair of the svc's in 1.1 cuft tuned to 33 hz and no problems with them bottoming out. I have a zapco on them that is 1100rms
 

SlugButter

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You have single or dual 4 ohm subs?

I have a pair of the svc's in 1.1 cuft tuned to 33 hz and no problems with them bottoming out. I have a zapco on them that is 1100rms
He has 1500 watts and likely over powering. Once you hit 1200 watts on 2 they will immediately have problems if you try to over drive them. I had 1500 watts on mine and could get them rattling pretty bad if I put extra power over rms to them. They’re a nice budget SQ sub that I really like. When over driving I’ve found that some subs pop, some subs distort, but these subs seem to rattle before any of that happens. It’s a clear sign that they are seeing too much power for the box size they are in. I had the single 4 ohm in .75 cubes at 30 HZ and it sounded great. I always wanted to try 4 of them in a sealed enclosure on 2500 watts. It was a nice clean sounding subwoofer in .5 cubes sealed, it just wasn’t quite loud enough.
 
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deez283

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He has 1500 watts and likely over powering. Once you hit 1200 watts on 2 they will immediately have problems if you try to over drive them. I had 1500 watts on mine and could get them rattling pretty bad if I put extra power over rms to them. They’re a nice budget SQ sub that I really like. When over driving I’ve found that some subs pop, some subs distort, but these subs seem to rattle before any of that happens. It’s a clear sign that they are seeing too much power for the box size they are in. I had the single 4 ohm in .75 cubes at 30 HZ and it sounded great. I always wanted to try 4 of them in a sealed enclosure on 2500 watts. It was a nice clean sounding subwoofer in .5 cubes sealed, it just wasn’t quite loud enough.
He did mentioned above he has the two subs running at 1 ohm so if he has the dual 4 ohm version that box may be a tad small.. The DVC wants like 1.25 cuft each and he has a pair in 1.4 cuft.

I agree they are a good SQ sub and not a spl monster.

You still running the "HE" Dayton sub? I got a pair of RSS390HE-22's sitting here but have not decided what to do with them yet. Messing around with WINisd I can't get these things close to Xmax and the port velocity seems pretty easy to keep in check.. I was thinking of trying 5 cuft tuned to 33hz with a 15"x5" port 30" long.
 

SlugButter

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He did mentioned above he has the two subs running at 1 ohm so if he has the dual 4 ohm version that box may be a tad small.. The DVC wants like 1.25 cuft each and he has a pair in 1.4 cuft.

I agree they are a good SQ sub and not a spl monster.

You still running the "HE" Dayton sub? I got a pair of RSS390HE-22's sitting here but have not decided what to do with them yet. Messing around with WINisd I can't get these things close to Xmax and the port velocity seems pretty easy to keep in check.. I was thinking of trying 5 cuft tuned to 33hz with a 15"x5" port 30" long.
I have it in my garage and play with it still. Took my brothers audio legion 10 out and put the Dayton in this last weekend so he could hear what an SQ sub sounded like for a few days. It’s way better than the audio legion armada on the same power. The Dayton sounds beautiful. I have a sealed 15 from Island Precision Audio in my ride now.
 

audiobaun

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Dayton HO 10s are a SQ oriented type sub, not an SPL oriented type sub. Ive had a pair in [email protected] htz on a PPI 1000.1d and they did fine..I still have them.. Great subs man. I later put them in a dual sealed 1.0 seperate chamber and they hit a lot better and cleaner.Loud enough but really clean, but not LOUD enough as I wanted some teeth rattling bass.But a dammned good subwoofer if you stay within the spec limitations of placing the recommended amount of amplified power. One Hell of a Warranty also that no other manufacture provides these days.The box you have now would do well for a single XFL 10 on that power you have. When you start hearing rattling and botteming out, youve pretty much reached the mechanical limitations of that woofer. Hopefully you havent ruined a nice set of SQ subs yet? You want to hit some LOWS?? Get some SPL Oriented type subs, and make the properly tuned enclosure for that vehicle and get the proper amount of power. I have never put any of my subs over RMS value. I dont understand why everyone places 150-500 rms more on a sub and expect them to last as well as the wrong enclosures for the envirionment they are placed within. Ive got some pockets... but not that DEEP to keep replacing gear:poop::poop::poop:🧐🧐
 

SlugButter

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Im a big fan Dayton and they sound good ported, but I just think sealed is where they shine. They will out perform a lot of subs on the market in a sealed alignment.
 

winkychevelle

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I actually found that most Dayton subs like sealed enclosures. I think I know exactly what your hearing. When it goes over excursion , do you hear a distinct rattling sound? Metal on metal sound?
Its a ping like a severe bottoming out ping.

Being an aluminum former and aluminum cone its very pronounced.

We talked on facebook briefly about the rattle and i dont think this is is.

As far as overdriving them im sure i could its not like the bass know will tell you exactly how much power is being sent to the subs. They sound fantastic at low volume bnut if im hitting 120db id probably be lucky. I wasnt expecting the world to move but i was expecting more than i have.

And yea 2 d4 wired to 1ohm. The ddaudio amp is rated at 1500w but likely is doing closer to 1800-2000. But like i said i cant even begin to crank up the amp any.

These subs will likely be gone in a few months and replaced if this is all i can get out of them. I see no reason why 2 6.5inch subs would significantly outperform 2 10s.

Id be very hesitant to put these subs in a larger box as that would lower mechanical damping even more.

I may put a plug in the port and try sealed. .7per sealed is about right from what i understand anyway. At any rate the mechanical damping offered by a sealed enclosure should help protect them from being over driven. I definitely cannot get anywhere close to thermal capability of these subs
 

Ridinhi

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Aug 8, 2006
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After spending a week building the box and putting everything together ive come up with an issue

These dayton ho 10s bottom out incredibly easily

Low notes where box programs predict the most excursion arent a problem. Its the pulse notes like a kick drum that bottoms them out or higher frequencies.

Box is 1.4 at 34hz it was at 30hz but the problem was worse

Amp is a dd d5.1500 so 1500w at 1ohm to the 2 10s. Crossovers are 64hz lowpass 24db and 30hz subsonic at 12db. No bass boost or eq.

Only thing i thought was questionable when i build the box was the 4inch aero for 2 10s but thats almost 9in² per cube of port area which is normal imo. Port terminates at pretty much the exact middle of the box and side fires at driverside rear door.

Other than buying high excursion subs i dont see a way of fixing this issue.

I figured 2 10inch ho would be louder than 2 dd 506 but it doesnt seem possible without bottomimg the subs out. Which is crasy because both subs supposed have very similar x max capabilities.
Are these subs in your truck? If so, can you post a pic?
 

Ridinhi

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Aug 8, 2006
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He has 1500 watts and likely over powering. Once you hit 1200 watts on 2 they will immediately have problems if you try to over drive them. I had 1500 watts on mine and could get them rattling pretty bad if I put extra power over rms to them. They’re a nice budget SQ sub that I really like. When over driving I’ve found that some subs pop, some subs distort, but these subs seem to rattle before any of that happens. It’s a clear sign that they are seeing too much power for the box size they are in. I had the single 4 ohm in .75 cubes at 30 HZ and it sounded great. I always wanted to try 4 of them in a sealed enclosure on 2500 watts. It was a nice clean sounding subwoofer in .5 cubes sealed, it just wasn’t quite loud enough.
Mine popped. Loved the sound of them but like I’m hearing here, just couldn’t take much power.
 

hispls

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SO you're running 1500W to two 600W rated subs and wondering why you're pushing them beyond their mechanical limits?
 

Slo_Ride

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SO you're running 1500W to two 600W rated subs and wondering why you're pushing them beyond their mechanical limits?
This is why I can't even these days. It's like, "I stuck this six inch knife in my chest and I don't understand why I died". Decrease box and port. Until you nuke it thermally
 

winkychevelle

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  • #17
SO you're running 1500W to two 600W rated subs and wondering why you're pushing them beyond their mechanical limits?
You know you dont have to use all that power i had the same amp on 2 506s at 1ohm those are what 250-300w rms each but they didnt bottom out like these. Guess im just used to subs with more internal space. I knew these were sq subs going into this but i didnt expect output to be this low

Guess ill be on the hunt for different subs. I wish the ia flatlyne can in 10s. Maybe ill pick up a pair of gcon 10s.

Idk what is sql subs these days.
 

Buck

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One fundamental box design issue I see here is that the subs are too far and unequally away from the port. Your passenger side sub is like 3 feet or so further away from the port exit than the driver side sub. That distance can cause some cancellation. If only using 1 port, I'd try to group the subs as close together as possible.
 
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