Dayton DSP Help

[wheelert15]

I'm currently installing a Alpine Halo ILx-F509 in my 08 Impala. I have a Dayton DSP-408 with 4 inputs and 8 outputs. The Alpine has 6 RCA outs, am I better to run the sub outputs from the Alpine to my sub amp directly, or just ignore the sub outputs from the Alpine and use the DSP to feed my sub amp? Also any help on settings for my DSP would be great.
Thanks

I have Taramps Smart 3K for Rockford Fosgate Loaded 12 sub enclosure, Rockford Fosgate 6.5 and tweeter components up front with a 1,000 watt Pioneer 4 channel amp, and a pair of Sony 6 x 9 rear deck off a 800 watt Pioneer amp. I'll soon be replacing the Pioneer 4 channel with a SALT 500.4 or RF T1000-4 amp

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[mat3833 10+ year member]

I'm currently installing a Alpine Halo ILx-F509 in my 08 Impala. I have a Dayton DSP-408 with 4 inputs and 8 outputs. The Alpine has 6 RCA outs, am I better to run the sub outputs from the Alpine to my sub amp directly, or just ignore the sub outputs from the Alpine and use the DSP to feed my sub amp? Also any help on settings for my DSP would be great.
Thanks

I have Taramps Smart 3K for Rockford Fosgate Loaded 12 sub enclosure, Rockford Fosgate 6.5 and tweeter components up front with a 1,000 watt Pioneer 4 channel amp, and a pair of Sony 6 x 9 rear deck off a 800 watt Pioneer amp. I'll soon be replacing the Pioneer 4 channel with a SALT 500.4 or RF T1000-4 amp

The Dayton is a better option for your sub signal if you want the adjustability. You have 8 channels of output on the Dayton that you can assign however you want. It accepts 4 channel input: right front, left front, right rear, left rear.

I would use the DSP as follows :

Output-
1+2 are left and right front for the Rockford comps. High pass at 100hz 24db/octave
3+4 are left and right rear for the 6x9. High pass at 80hz 24db/octave low pass at 2000hz 24db/octave
Ch 7+8 are sub, low pass at 80hz 24db/octave, and if it's a ported enclosure high pass at 24hz 24db/octave.

All crossover slopes should be Linkwitz/Riley style if it's an option.

Matt

 

[wheelert15]

The Dayton is a better option for your sub signal if you want the adjustability. You have 8 channels of output on the Dayton that you can assign however you want. It accepts 4 channel input: right front, left front, right rear, left rear.

I would use the DSP as follows :

Output-
1+2 are left and right front for the Rockford comps. High pass at 100hz 24db/octave
3+4 are left and right rear for the 6x9. High pass at 80hz 24db/octave low pass at 2000hz 24db/octave
Ch 7+8 are sub, low pass at 80hz 24db/octave, and if it's a ported enclosure high pass at 24hz 24db/octave.

All crossover slopes should be Linkwitz/Riley style if it's an option.

Matt

I have the Linkwitz Riley option no worries, the RF components have separate xovers and actually wired as 2 6.5" and 2 tweeters so maybe channel 1+2 Front L R tweeters and channel 3+4 Front LR 6.5 would this change the xover points on these channels? Thanks for the help, I'm pretty lost on the DSP settings, I'm just starting to understand all of it's options. I've attached a screen shot of the sub settings on channel 7, and the 6x9 on channel 5 that you suggest.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

I have the Linkwitz Riley option no worries, the RF components have separate xovers and actually wired as 2 6.5" and 2 tweeters so maybe channel 1+2 Front L R tweeters and channel 3+4 Front LR 6.5 would this change the xover points on these channels? Thanks for the help, I'm pretty lost on the DSP settings, I'm just starting to understand all of it's options. I've attached a screen shot of the sub settings on channel 7, and the 6x9 on channel 5 that you suggest.

click the sources to turn them off, the way you have it set up now, all of the output channels take input from 1, 2, 3, and 4 (all inputs) which doesn't make sense lol.

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

I have the Linkwitz Riley option no worries, the RF components have separate xovers and actually wired as 2 6.5" and 2 tweeters so maybe channel 1+2 Front L R tweeters and channel 3+4 Front LR 6.5 would this change the xover points on these channels? Thanks for the help, I'm pretty lost on the DSP settings, I'm just starting to understand all of it's options. I've attached a screen shot of the sub settings on channel 7, and the 6x9 on channel 5 that you suggest.

If they have crossovers you don't need anything but a high-pass on your componants. If you give me the model number I'll double check.

I'm not entirely familiar with the Dayton input selection, but you would want the inputs split as such:

1+2 go to 1+2(front components)
3+4 go to 3+4(rear 6x9)
1-4 sum to 7+8(or just 7 for mono) for your sub.

 

[wheelert15]

If they have crossovers you don't need anything but a high-pass on your componants. If you give me the model number I'll double check.

I'm not entirely familiar with the Dayton input selection, but you would want the inputs split as such:

1+2 go to 1+2(front components)
3+4 go to 3+4(rear 6x9)
1-4 sum to 7+8(or just 7 for mono) for your sub.

Rockford Fosgate
T2652-S
This is the specs for the components
Frequency Response (Hz)
55Hz - 22kHz
Power Handling (RMS)
100 Watts RMS
200 Watts Max
Crossover
High-Pass (HP): 3.0kHz @ 18dB/octave Butterworth
Low-Pass (LP): 3.0kHz @ 12dB/octave Butterworth

I have the xovers set to BiAmp so I can obviously run these on 4 channels and use the dsp for it's xovers as well with them.

Thanks for all your help, it means more than you realize. I got in alittle over my head with the dsp to say the least.

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

Rockford Fosgate
T2652-S
This is the specs for the components
Frequency Response (Hz)
55Hz - 22kHz
Power Handling (RMS)
100 Watts RMS
200 Watts Max
Crossover
High-Pass (HP): 3.0kHz @ 18dB/octave Butterworth
Low-Pass (LP): 3.0kHz @ 12dB/octave Butterworth

I have the xovers set to BiAmp so I can obviously run these on 4 channels and use the dsp for it's xovers as well with them.

Thanks for all your help, it means more than you realize. I got in alittle over my head with the dsp to say the least.

Biamp just let's you run more power to each individual power. I would stick to running them passive to start with, but if you want to dive head first you will need 6 channels of amp to run all speakers.

Matt

 

[wheelert15]

Biamp just let's you run more power to each individual power. I would stick to running them passive to start with, but if you want to dive head first you will need 6 channels of amp to run all speakers.

Matt

I knew I was in over my head somewhat. My end goal is probably like everyone elses, lol, I would love to have great sq with tight bass, I'm not so much into the RB as I am Rock and Roll, but I listen to everything on occasion. I am planning on adding a SALT 500.4 or a RF T1000-4 for the component speakers, then using the Pioneer for the rear deck 6x9's, and my Taramps Smart 3K for the pair of RF 12's I have. Does this sound like I will end up with my final goal? I love it loud, but SQ is important to me on this build. It's by far the biggest and should be the best build I've ever done. Hopefully I will be satisfied and this will last for several years to come. As far as biamp I thought this would sound better, give more control, and let me have more power, I didn't realize there was a downside, but whatever way would sound best is all I am after. I've been away from car audio awhile and it seems like the options are never ending these days.

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

I knew I was in over my head somewhat. My end goal is probably like everyone elses, lol, I would love to have great sq with tight bass, I'm not so much into the RB as I am Rock and Roll, but I listen to everything on occasion. I am planning on adding a SALT 500.4 or a RF T1000-4 for the component speakers, then using the Pioneer for the rear deck 6x9's, and my Taramps Smart 3K for the pair of RF 12's I have. Does this sound like I will end up with my final goal? I love it loud, but SQ is important to me on this build. It's by far the biggest and should be the best build I've ever done. Hopefully I will be satisfied and this will last for several years to come. As far as biamp I thought this would sound better, give more control, and let me have more power, I didn't realize there was a downside, but whatever way would sound best is all I am after. I've been away from car audio awhile and it seems like the options are never ending these days.

OK, I am not the person to ask about SQ. Yes, I know a fair bit. Yes, I can offer quite a bit of opinion and fact on amps/speakers/etc. My entire goal is a system that sounds amazing and gets crazy loud. I am not normal, nor am I sane. I have way more money and time into my system than I care to count or recount and I've swapped speakers, amps, subs, and headunits much more than I wanted too. I will give advice from my experience, but the experience is mine, not yours. Speakers and amps that sound good to me may not to you.

With that said, before you jump into adding more amps or changing speakers or anything else you have a checklist to complete.

1: come up with a final goal
2: electrical upgrades to support that goal
3: deaden and isolate your front doors
4: learn more and re-deaden/isolate your front doors
5: realize you will never stop learning and put alot of effort into sealing up your doors and getting things sounding nice(to you)

Once you have completed this checklist then it's time to move on to changing speakers and adding amps. Feel free to ignore everything I've said but remember this: Car audio is 90% install, 5% parts, and 5% tuning.

Matt