CT Sounds 4000.1 Blown...

[Bwap]

What would be the best course of action?.. I ran this amp for awhile, then it went into protect.. but the POS protect circuit did nothing as the amp was popping and smoking while it said it was in protect. Now if I power on the amp it instantly goes into protect and starts popping and smoking.

I don't really understand the point in having a worthless protection circuit. I thought the point of the protection was to protect it before it was damaged, not allow it to further damage itself. Either way I need to know what to do, and will never spend money on CT again. Every other amp that I have owned that this amp was supposed to match in quality would go into protect, then power up after as the protection circuit wasn't a complete POS. These higher quality amps are Orion, DC and Mmats. This is partially to inform people of CT's crap protection but also would like to know what you would do. I don't know if I even want to get it repaired as it would cost a lot and its not that great of quality. It put out good clean power, but **** 1 time going into protect and completely fried... not an amp I see owning very long. Anyone have any idea how much it would cost to fix, or how much it is worth blown?

Click to read more...

 

[Pyromaniac4food]

What would be the best course of action?.. I ran this amp for awhile, then it went into protect.. but the POS protect circuit did nothing as the amp was popping and smoking while it said it was in protect. Now if I power on the amp it instantly goes into protect and starts popping and smoking.
I don't really understand the point in having a worthless protection circuit. I thought the point of the protection was to protect it before it was damaged, not allow it to further damage itself. Either way I need to know what to do, and will never spend money on CT again. Every other amp that I have owned that this amp was supposed to match in quality would go into protect, then power up after as the protection circuit wasn't a complete POS. These higher quality amps are Orion, DC and Mmats. This is partially to inform people of CT's crap protection but also would like to know what you would do. I don't know if I even want to get it repaired as it would cost a lot and its not that great of quality. It put out good clean power, but **** 1 time going into protect and completely fried... not an amp I see owning very long. Anyone have any idea how much it would cost to fix, or how much it is worth blown?

Gut shots will give us a lot more info

 

[Bwap]

Gut shots will give us a lot more info

Ok, when I get some time ill pull it out and take some pics.

 

[bbeljefe]

The amp has a one year no fault warranty so at the most, it would cost the exchange fee and shipping to have it replaced. The thing to do is call the dealer you bought it from or, contact CT Sounds directly if you didn't buy it from a dealer. Of course, if you bought from Paul Kim, you have no warranty.

Also, protection circuits can't protect the amp from every possible problem and if you're serious when you say all the other amps you've owned have gone into protect, perhaps you should figure out what you're doing to them to cause that. Going into protect is not a normal, everyday occurrence... it's indicative of a problem somewhere. ;-)

 

[nadcicle 10+ year member]

To add on to what bbeljefe said. CT even covers it if you bought it used from someone else. You simply have to prove you bought it from that person legitimately (to prevent theft).

As for the protection circuitry, I am going to take a stab in the dark here because I've seen similar happen to other amps. Vibration is the number 1 amp killer, I've seen more people with trunk cars vibrate solder joints loose than any other setup from mounting to their box from lack of space to mount anywhere else. I've killed an AQ2200 from vibrating it on my box in my Suburban. Since then I no longer mount directly to the box. I've witnessed a Sundown 3500 go up from vibration as well so it kinda convinced me that was biggest issue. Not wiring low impedance or low volting as much as people would think. Low volting does have its fair share of taking out amps though.

 

[Bwap]

Havent had time to pull it out for pics yet, but I left it hooked up overnight and it drained the batteries. Ill have to see when the warrantee is good until, as I do have proof of purchase.

I don't know how long ago the presale was but that's when it was purchased.. may be too long for the warrantee.

 

[CSCStang]

Havent had time to pull it out for pics yet, but I left it hooked up overnight and it drained the batteries. Ill have to see when the warrantee is good until, as I do have proof of purchase.I don't know how long ago the presale was but that's when it was purchased.. may be too long for the warrantee.

Seen a few stories of late that the 7k has been going up in flames.

 

[Bwap]

The amp has a one year no fault warranty so at the most, it would cost the exchange fee and shipping to have it replaced. The thing to do is call the dealer you bought it from or, contact CT Sounds directly if you didn't buy it from a dealer. Of course, if you bought from Paul Kim, you have no warranty.
Also, protection circuits can't protect the amp from every possible problem and if you're serious when you say all the other amps you've owned have gone into protect, perhaps you should figure out what you're doing to them to cause that. Going into protect is not a normal, everyday occurrence... it's indicative of a problem somewhere. ;-)

I was pushing them on purpose, not caring if they blew, yet they held up surprisingly... This amp was used correctly, never pushed or protected before. If it was vibration, then that's odd as it wasn't mounted on the box or in front of the subs. I was using it daily, and when it blew I was listening to a song I have listened to on the same settings at the same volume several times before.

 

[Bwap]

Seen a few stories of late that the 7k has been going up in flames.

Any idea why its happening?

 

[Dub7sonoma Premium Member]

Any idea why its happening?

Probably didn't have enough electrical to support it

 

[fatboytyler]

Any idea why its happening?

What is your electrical?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

LOL. I'm really anxious to see how this plays out.

For the record what sort of fusing were you using on that amp? (this is a rhetorical question because I'm sure it's either not fused or way over-fused)

 

[Bwap]

LOL. I'm really anxious to see how this plays out.
For the record what sort of fusing were you using on that amp? (this is a rhetorical question because I'm sure it's either not fused or way over-fused)

Fused within 18 inches of each battery and had a breaker before splitting the 2/0 gauge into the power of the amp. Full EB flex 2/0 gauge from alt to batteries to amp, never saw low or high voltage and was clamped at an output that the amp should be able to do all day. But you knew that seeing as your question was rhetorical right?

I am just going to have it repaired and find a mounting location rather than in my trunk, the subs are facing forward and the amp behind it.. Id be surprised if vibration was the cause, hopefully CT can tell me the cause so I can prevent it.

The amp should still be covered under warrantee, so ima get it repaired and run my mmats in the mean time.. The CT amp was amazing so I hope it was just a flaw that can be fixed.. what are the chances it is repaired better than original? lol

 

[Bwap]

The amp has a one year no fault warranty so at the most, it would cost the exchange fee and shipping to have it replaced. The thing to do is call the dealer you bought it from or, contact CT Sounds directly if you didn't buy it from a dealer. Of course, if you bought from Paul Kim, you have no warranty.
Also, protection circuits can't protect the amp from every possible problem and if you're serious when you say all the other amps you've owned have gone into protect, perhaps you should figure out what you're doing to them to cause that. Going into protect is not a normal, everyday occurrence... it's indicative of a problem somewhere. ;-)

I agree amps shouldn't be going into protect regularly, they were being pushed for all they had before going thermal and power back up fine which I did not expect lol.. that was not the case with the CT amp though. Hopefully CT can tell me what the cause was so I can prevent it, as it should still be covered by warrantee.. do they repair the amp or replace it?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Fused within 18 inches of each battery and had a breaker before splitting the 2/0 gauge into the power of the amp. Full EB flex 2/0 gauge from alt to batteries to amp, never saw low or high voltage and was clamped at an output that the amp should be able to do all day. But you knew that seeing as your question was rhetorical right?
I am just going to have it repaired and find a mounting location rather than in my trunk, the subs are facing forward and the amp behind it.. Id be surprised if vibration was the cause, hopefully CT can tell me the cause so I can prevent it.

The amp should still be covered under warrantee, so ima get it repaired and run my mmats in the mean time.. The CT amp was amazing so I hope it was just a flaw that can be fixed.. what are the chances it is repaired better than original? lol

That didn't answer my question. What size fuses did you have on the amp? 400A 500A?

These use Rd D9 board and D9 is known to be a pretty solid 5K amp, so there's a chance it's just some cheap parts or a legit manufacturing error that caused the failure, and a repair would make it "better than new". Then again, if you're sending it in for warranty, who knows if it'll be repaired re-boarded, or they just send you another one?

At the end of the day the design of the Korean/Chinese class D amps makes them unreliable when they try to make them bigger than 2KW. Plenty will run for years without trouble, but you'll have random self destructs. You will likely NOT have similar problems with your Mmats, but then again, you're not paying 10 cents a watt for Mmats or any other company that's done R&D in the last decade.