Coupling car battery power cable for repair

[nb2118]

Hi, I bought 4 gauge Kolossus Flex cable (OFC) and used these couples to repair, connecting a cut stock battery cable together. After it cut, the cable was about a foot too short to reach my battery terminal which is why I did this.

Conext Link WCT4N-2 Wire Coupler Terminal Butt Connector with Set Screws 2 Pack (4 Gauge) （16756）

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2UMM40/?tag=caraudiocom-20

This worked fine for some months, but it looks like the wires have burned on the ends of the wires connecting each other. Is this not an appropriate way to connect these? Do I need a different kind of cable (ie. Not OFC)? Or maybe a fuse? I'd rather not have my car blow up so any help appreciated

Click to read more...

 

[spokey9]

They probably were loose enough in that connector (either not tight enough from the beginning or slowly loosened )...that'd be my guess why it failed...best bet imo is redo the whole cable

 

[nb2118]

They probably were loose enough in that connector (either not tight enough from the beginning or slowly loosened )...that'd be my guess why it failed...best bet imo is redo the whole cable

Would it have been better to try with a thinner gauge cable, or maybe fuse it with something? The stock battery cable splices a few times into different things so it's more than just replacing a straight cable, unfortunately .. including both alternator and starter.

 

[HardofWhoring]

What is this powering? The vehicle or an amp?

I would never use that, and certainly not long term. That's a very small set screw to secure your power wire. If you noticed burning on the ends, then it came loose and has a loose connection causing resistance. That is incredibly dangerous. If that actually comes out of that, then you have a wire connected to your batter pos, and then that other wire catches metal, you will arc and burn your vehicle to the ground.

If this was for an amp, I would get rid of those, trim both ends clean, and replace it with a fuse holder. You should have enough to be able to reuse those wires. A fuse holder would at least have a large enough set screw to secure the connection.

 

[nb2118]

What is this powering? The vehicle or an amp?

I would never use that, and certainly not long term. That's a very small set screw to secure your power wire. If you noticed burning on the ends, then it came loose and has a loose connection causing resistance. That is incredibly dangerous. If that actually comes out of that, then you have a wire connected to your batter pos, and then that other wire catches metal, you will arc and burn your vehicle to the ground.

If this was for an amp, I would get rid of those, trim both ends clean, and replace it with a fuse holder. You should have enough to be able to reuse those wires. A fuse holder would at least have a large enough set screw to secure the connection.

This is from positive battery post to the stock car power wire. This is separate from amp power, otherwise it would be a lot easier to just replace a straight cable instead of trying to extend the end too short to hook on battery. Is there a way you'd recommend I could repair this, maybe terminating ends with ring terminals and use maybe an inline fuse holder?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Do it properly with a Copper 4ga butt and heat shrink it

Adhesive Heat Shrink Butt Splice Wire Cable Connector Copper w Tin Plating

www.batterycablesusa.com

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

You either had a loose connection or the cable corroded from exposure to the elements. A good electrical supply store will sell a similar arrangement for buried cable splice/repair that comes with a big slice of heat shrink tube that has some sort of waterproof seal that oozes around everything to keep it secure from the elements.

 

[HardofWhoring]

I mean, if you want to do it right, it's 4ga, so it's what $1 a foot, $2 a foot? and this is your battery to vehicle, so it's how many feet long in the engine bay? Unless you've got a bmw or euro where the only battery is mounted in the trunk, it's maybe $8, maybe $10 to make this one run?

 

[nb2118]

I mean, if you want to do it right, it's 4ga, so it's what $1 a foot, $2 a foot? and this is your battery to vehicle, so it's how many feet long in the engine bay? Unless you've got a bmw or euro where the only battery is mounted in the trunk, it's maybe $8, maybe $10 to make this one run?

The stock battery cable splits into multiple different to connections on the engine, so I can't simply replace it with a new straight cable.

 

[HardofWhoring]

The stock battery cable splits into multiple different to connections on the engine, so I can't simply replace it with a new straight cable.

That sounds concerning. There should really only be two cables that are stock for the vehicle that come off battery positive: to fuse panel, and to the starter.

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

The stock battery cable splits into multiple different to connections on the engine, so I can't simply replace it with a new straight cable.

Oem cables are readily available for most vehicles. Check rockauto. Anything less will be a future headache.