Considering this component set, thoughts?

[JoshC 10+ year member]

I really like my db drive amp when i switched over from my memphis. Does a good job of pushing my front stage and sounds really good. So now that im looking for a 2nd component stage i figured i look at them, and i found this set pretty cheap.

What you guys think? Seems like a good budget set, with a rms of 75 and max of 350 sounds like it can take some power too

db Drive

Also specs say they go down to 35Hz?????? Thats crazy for a 6.5

Click to read more...

 

[kr15 5,000+ posts]

whats pretty cheap?

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

ebay has them for 60buxs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400272157911?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

They will not last if played down that low... They look decent for the money but I would not expect them to play any lower then 60-70hz.. Which is fine cause they are there to be used as a midbass driver not a sub... Mine are able to play down to 50hz but giving them any real power that low will result in them going boom. I have mine crossed at 80hz but even during some songs I have to bump that up to around 110hz.

 

[BnGRacing 10+ year member]

Also specs say they go down to 35Hz?????? Thats crazy for a 6.5

You can go to Walmart and buy co-ax speakers that'll play down to 35Hz. The real question is how much power will those speakers be able to handle before reaching its thermal and/or mechanical limits. I'd put the over/under at 2w.

Same goes for those components you linked too. Do you really think each individual driver can handle 75w worth of 35dB? No way. Can those speakers handle 75w worth of music? Depends on what you mean by "handle".

In marketing terms, if the mids can each handle 30w and the tweets 7.5w; you have a 75w RMS set. Is this sleazy? Oh ya. What they also don't tell you is if the '75w' rating it thermal or mechanical. 25w may make the speaker pop & fart b/c it's bottoming out, however the voice coil will not smoke.

To put things in perspective; I had JL 8" IB4 subwoofers rated at 75w RMS. They had a bigger coil, longer throw, and better cooling than those db Drive components despite having the same 'rating'. Would you bet money on which would blow up and/or bottom out 1st? You'd probably bet on the JL subwoofer.

Speaker ratings, even the T/S parameters, are useless.

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

Alright..... Well ive never heard anything bad about db, ill be high passing them at 80hz anywho

I just havnt seen a 6.5 with that low a fq rating. My hertz cant be crossed at 60 cuz they will flex to much too, so i know what u mean

Im just trying to see if i can find sum good stuff for 50-60bux vs paying 100-140

 

[BnGRacing 10+ year member]

Im just trying to see if i can find sum good stuff for 50-60bux vs paying 100-140

You're not going to find 'good stuff' for

If your budget is $60 for a set of components, I'd just keep the stock speakers. Even used, you're going to have a helluva time trying to buy a quality set of speakers for under $60 shipped.

 

[FlexnInLa 10+ year member]

You are dropping the Hertz and DD setup for something 50-60 bucks?

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

You're not going to find 'good stuff' for
If your budget is $60 for a set of components, I'd just keep the stock speakers. Even used, you're going to have a helluva time trying to buy a quality set of speakers for under $60 shipped.

pg rsds when they were on sale for like $55 shipped

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

pg rsds when they were on sale for like $55 shipped

Don't bother arguing with BnG bro. If it's not old and the opposite of everyone else, it's not worth it.

I'd pick em up at $60, what's the worst that could happen? Though if what a few people have said is true (pulling out your Hertz and DD in turn), I'd be wary.

As pleased as I am with my "cheaper" CDT components, I do have to be careful about them bottoming out. I have them on about 110w a side, and on music really heavy in bass, I sometimes have to cross them as high as 100hz @ 24/db

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

Lol im keeping my front stage, i was going to add ANOTHER component set for the rear. Came across a nice set of infinity references for 50 here in town

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

Single cab truck,I wouldn't waste the money for the rears..

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

Single cab truck,I wouldn't waste the money for the rears..

I think thats what ive decided at this point.....

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Single cab truck,I wouldn't waste the money for the rears..

x2. Well, in any case I don't think I'd bother with a component set in the rear. Maybe some mid-bass though.

 

[BnGRacing 10+ year member]

Don't bother arguing with BnG bro. If it's not old and the opposite of everyone else, it's not worth it.
I'd pick em up at $60, what's the worst that could happen? Though if what a few people have said is true (pulling out your Hertz and DD in turn), I'd be wary.

As pleased as I am with my "cheaper" CDT components, I do have to be careful about them bottoming out. I have them on about 110w a side, and on music really heavy in bass, I sometimes have to cross them as high as 100hz @ 24/db

Still mad I called your amps garbage?

And yes, I have old speakers...but I can cross them over at 50Hz @ 12dB without them bottoming out. You apparently cannot do the same with your speakers. Based on that, what do you think is better? And no, my speakers are not better b/c they're old. They're better b/c they're better...they're old b/c they haven't fallen apart or blown up like your garden variety $100 component set. Good speakers last a while you know...same goes with amps.

But like I've said before, based on your signature you're not the right person to ask advice from when it comes to quality.