Comps for new camaro

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First time around was passive with the id65's and it was amazing, but I've read active is the way to go, so probably active... what would you steer towards and why?
I was busting his balls the Hertz Mille is a f****** bad-*** driver.

It just depends on what you're looking for personally me I like something that's Highly efficient and build around low distortion. 6.5s are really just too small to have any real output and still drop low enough and keep up with any type of high output woofer.

Pretty much everybody here that has a large system has modified their doors in one way or another to Accept 8 or 10 inch drivers. Just like anything else though, if you put in hard work and effort into it it pays off..

The eights I have you can actually feel them in your chest and that's the midbass! there's so much punch I have to turn it down cuz I think I'ma blow them but they're barely even moving. Lol

Lil windex..

 
I ain't going active takes a basic understanding of how crossover slopes and crossover points affect phasing of the driver as well as the driver Zone phasing issues and you have to be able to blend the two drivers together to try to get the best phasing possible..

AKA mounting in different locations at different angles and a different distances from your ear all present phasing problems so it's a good idea to have an understanding on that. Also you need to learn how to look at graphs of to Drago and match crossover points to where both drivers are very close to face as well so small adjustments can be made to make it sound like one driver instead of two separate drivers it's really time consuming and without prior knowledge of what a good system should sound like it will take you a long time but there are key things that you can look for to help you tune without really getting a mic.

 
I was busting his balls the Hertz Mille is a f****** bad-*** driver.It just depends on what you're looking for personally me I like something that's Highly efficient and build around low distortion. 6.5s are really just too small to have any real output and still drop low enough and keep up with any type of high output woofer.

Pretty much everybody here that has a large system has modified their doors in one way or another to Accept 8 or 10 inch drivers. Just like anything else though, if you put in hard work and effort into it it pays off..

The eights I have you can actually feel them in your chest and that's the midbass! there's so much punch I have to turn it down cuz I think I'ma blow them but they're barely even moving. Lol

Lil windex..
That's exactly what I want, is to feel it in my chest. How do I get that?!

 
First time around was passive with the id65's and it was amazing, but I've read active is the way to go, so probably active... what would you steer towards and why?
Passive can sound good but you wont get as much control than active and after a while they can fail. I've sent an amp for repair a while back because I had major disto on one side and the coils were good. The amp turned out fine and the crossover on that side was in fact failling.

If you plan on getting a dsp than it's really is a no-brainer imo but active can be frustrating and time consuming. If you decide to go passive; I strongly sujest a set with bi-ampable crossovers.

 
The mids I suggest.

https://www.parts-express.com/bc-8bg51-8-neodymium-woofer--294-696

I've been wanting to try some PA meds with lows and a higher Q. Onlyliest thing I wish was they where 4 ohm.

these things are honestly some of the best sounding drivers I've ever heard and they're borderline scary when I crank them up I'm going to probably drop a 10in in the door and just remodel father entire door and get another pair of tweeters.

 
I'm on the 378s. 1/4 wave horn. they kick *** man. I've made people get out and its still clean. what ya working with? id like 2 pair of the 448s.
I'm curious why you would want to switch out the 378's with 448's? The 378's have a wider freq range and higher sensitivity rating/rms rating?

 
That's exactly what I want, is to feel it in my chest. How do I get that?!
cone area, turning your door into a perfect enclosure with proper baffle, CLD, MLV along with sheet metal to cover the whole door. literally turning your door into a well dampened fully sealed box.

The other part is high efficiency drivers 92 db spl and up along with about 450 watts rms or more per midbass driver alone. Takes a lot to get the actual thump in the chest.

 
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