Component 6.5" fronts -- Which would you choose?

[Jmez36hz]

I have some alpine 6x9 type R that sound beautiful with 45 watts rms going to them, but can take 110 rms. I'll probably eventually give them a bit more power. They are of course available in 6.5" components. With a 2.5" depth they should fit just fine, and you won't have to buy a massive amp to power them.

 

[Chromatic]

I have some alpine 6x9 type R that sound beautiful with 45 watts rms going to them, but can take 110 rms. I'll probably eventually give them a bit more power. They are of course available in 6.5" components. With a 2.5" depth they should fit just fine, and you won't have to buy a massive amp to power them.

I'm finding quite a few varieties of the "R" series of Alpine 6.5 components.. ie: Alpine SPR-60C (SPR60C) 6.5" 2-Way Type-R Component Car Speakers

Mind providing a specific link? Or did I happen to run across the exact match there with that link?

Oh , and the rest of you.. what's your thumbs up or thumbs down opinion of the Alpine type R's?

Thanks

 

[Chromatic]

Oh,.. and someone mentioned Morel Maximo's..

Morel Maximo 6 6 5" 2 Way Car Audio Component Speaker System Pair Maximo 6 7290001458808 | eBay

They are dirt cheap everywhere.. and are 180watt RMS per speaker. I'll be driving them with 100watts RMS. Are these really way ahead of everything else mentioned in this thread? Would 100 watts on the 180watt speakers be sufficient? The price on Amazon, Ebay, etc for $120-130 just seems odd to me if these are the elite speakers the brand would indicate?

 

[Jmez36hz]

Yep those are the ones. I've actually been itching to upgrade my 2 way 6.5" fronts to those. Their bass output is a bit on the shy side, but if you are running a sub as well and are going for isolation these should do the trick just fine. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Jmez36hz]

Under powering speakers will only hurt them if you try to turn your amp up too high and produce clipping in the signal. Although clipping, or distortion can damage any speaker. If you grossly underpower some stiffer speakers you will get very little output I would think. I feel like it is always best to closely match your wattage ratings between your amp and speaker to get the most effective system for your money, and have a longer lasting system. Overpowering is likely to blow speakers, underpowering makes people want to turn it up the gain even though they shouldn't.... I'm guilty lol.... quite a few toasted subs later....

Sound is always a matter of preference, you can find alpines type R line at most audio stores, and probably listen to them. The tweeters may be considered a bit sharp by some, I like them above other things i've heard for that price point. I mostly listen to electronic music, and some rock and rap.

 

[Chromatic]

Appreciate it. I am, unfortunately, on a budget. So I am sticking with my Amp (I have about 3 that I feel comfortable buying.. so amps not an issue ).. that runs 100-120watts RMS per speaker.. The amps I've chosen run 120w x 2 @ 4 ohms RMS and are 4 channel, which I'm bridging the channel 3/4 for 300-400watts RMS (depending on amp) -- And am running this to a JL 8" (if someone can convince me to run a 10" I have the power and the money is the same) in a custom enclosure that fits in the huge opening the factory sub would have gone in (To give you an idea of the size of this box .. it has .66 Cubic feet of space).

Point is.. Most 6.5" components I'm looking at run at 100w RMS,.. which with the amp running 120w RMS per channel will give me a bit of headroom (which I'm pretty sold on).. So I can keep the gains down,.. I'm not going to max the gains period.

So the Morels at 180watts RMS I'm just not comfortable running them without headroom on the amp (and 120w on 180w won't leave me any headroom.. ). So I'm with you in matching the speaker to the amp.. and in my opinion buying a little more amp than the speakers rate at.

The Alpine R's run pretty high at 110watts RMS a piece.. but it would still give me a bit of headroom.

I've got so many components in my head now.. CDT - 61cv's, Rainbow SLC 265.25NG's, JL C2650 Evolution C2's, and those Alpine SPR-60C's. (That's narrowed down from at least a dozen others that didn't work for one reason or another .. ie: Impossible fit without severe modification,.. SQ issues,.. people here disapproving, etc. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif)

I know speakers are something you need to listen to yourself,.. as we all like different sounds,.. but like many places Car audio shops with the soundboards really got hit in the last 5+ years.. and besides going to bestbuy or something.. there really isn't anymore "close" that I can go listen to. So it's literally all word of mouth (or online now).

Plus soundboards (push button for headunit/speaker/amp ) really **** anyways.. The speakers sound nothing like what they sound like in those rooms in a car. Half the time they are not even setup remotely correctly in the boards, etc. I've always just had to go by recommendations. Speakers aren't something you can just spend say $300 on any pair of them and be confident they will be great (for mid-range price).

Further, what Person A loves.. Person B will shoot down lol. Like the Sub, and the amp.. I'm probably going to have to end up just making a stab in the dark decision and just hope it turns out well.

Bottom line I'm upgrading what's playing in the car now. Which is/are TWO 6.5" 10watt RMS Paper cone Clarion factory speakers, and two blown 3/4" tweeters from the factory that go with these Clarions.

You know the speakers in walmart that sound the worst on their soundboard? Those sound better than these. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

So the good news, is anything I put in the 350Z is going to sound 100 times better.

But back on topic -- Still looking for suggestions and/or input on the speakers mentioned for 6.5" components. (Preferably shallow mount with 3/4" tweeters.. but I can make 1" tweeters work with some careful cutting. I can only space the Mids in the doors so much before they come through the grills,.. as the factory speakers already have a spacer of 1" on them due to the shallow space between the speaker magnet and window).