comp vs coax

todd From north dakota

this is my subwoofer in my car.running 450 watts rms to it.all i can say is wow.totally insane.hits harder than most 12" subs do.a little overkill for what i wanted but hey i can always turn it down.absolutely wicked looking sub too.when online posts pictures youl see what i mean.also a technical note this bad boy handles 600watts rms.so i suggest you run atleast 350 watts rms to it. no one found this funny

 
no i mean coax. boston, memphis(center dust cap is a removable tweeter), image dynamics, cdt plus many others make/made speakers like this.
Oh I gotcha now. I know exactly what you are referring to.

But you know, I never really understood that. I mean, the versatility is definitely there and all, but why spend money on separates if the tweeters are to be mounted on the phase plugs like that? Might as well just buy some coaxs. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

 
todd From north dakota this is my subwoofer in my car.running 450 watts rms to it.all i can say is wow.totally insane.hits harder than most 12" subs do.a little overkill for what i wanted but hey i can always turn it down.absolutely wicked looking sub too.when online posts pictures youl see what i mean.also a technical note this bad boy handles 600watts rms.so i suggest you run atleast 350 watts rms to it. no one found this funny
you're talking about the cerwin vega right? and if you are, that's exactly what i wanted to hear about this sub!!!!

 
Oh I gotcha now. I know exactly what you are referring to.
But you know, I never really understood that. I mean, the versatility is definitely there and all, but why spend money on separates if the tweeters are to be mounted on the phase plugs like that? Might as well just buy some coaxs. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif
crossovers and the actuall speakers are far better in those sets vs regular coax. the fewer source points that you have the better off you are. look into the theory of superposition. its one of the same reasons people like using horns. if you are going into your doors people usually use a seperately mounted tweeter to lesson the image/stage problems of going into the door/dash. going into the kicks centers both the left and right speakers to the point all you need to do is aim the coax.

 
crossovers and the actuall speakers are far better in those sets vs regular coax. the fewer source points that you have the better off you are. look into the theory of superposition. its one of the same reasons people like using horns. if you are going into your doors people usually use a seperately mounted tweeter to lesson the image/stage problems of going into the door/dash. going into the kicks centers both the left and right speakers to the point all you need to do is aim the coax.
Yeah, I know what you're saying. It's just that I'm not a fan of kicks. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
Yeah, I know what you're saying. It's just that I'm not a fan of kicks. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
- Say it's not so. You don't know what you are missing if you have never tried kicks.

The point source theory is bunk. Even if the tweeter is located in the middle of the voice coil of the midbass driver, the passive crossover in most cases will make the drivers out of phase.

Anyway, as long as you keep the tweeter close to the mid, or keep the driver distance ratios to listener close, all that is needed is the tweeter attenuator to match levels.

I forget what the speaker designers usually recommend for maximum tweeter mounting distance from the mid, but I'm betting that as long as you stay close to or less than inter-aural spacing, around 7 inches or less, and just match levels, anything else is probably overkill.

 
- Say it's not so. You don't know what you are missing if you have never tried kicks.
The point source theory is bunk. Even if the tweeter is located in the middle of the voice coil of the midbass driver, the passive crossover in most cases will make the drivers out of phase.

Anyway, as long as you keep the tweeter close to the mid, or keep the driver distance ratios to listener close, all that is needed is the tweeter attenuator to match levels.

I forget what the speaker designers usually recommend for maximum tweeter mounting distance from the mid, but I'm betting that as long as you stay close to or less than inter-aural spacing, around 7 inches or less, and just match levels, anything else is probably overkill.
lol bunk? i would rather do it this way than mounting a tweeter anywhere. not saying its the end all be all but its far more simple than mounting the tweeter up by the firewall or down in front of the mid bass driver. with the coax you KNOW what you have. start listening to staging and imaging tracks with poor locations and all of the sudden the sound stage starts taking limited shapes which imo totally defeats the kick panel purpose. its also pretty funny getting people with 600-1450 dollar speakers sets up front switching to a ~$200 and being as happy or happier with a more simple set up.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
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