Closed Cell Foam from Home Depot....

[Phers1er 10+ year member]

I am on my way to Home Depot to check out the closed cell foam. If it will be easy to apply it might be a cost efficient waterproof foam we can easily get our hands on. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

Also I still have a bit left if you want some.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

I did under my door panels and carpet with the exact same stuff but mine came on a roll.

how much did you pay for that roll?

and where

 

[Freelander 10+ year member]

Also I still have a bit left if you want some.

did you get the roll from HomeDepot?

 

[Phers1er 10+ year member]

No, I got it from my work. They gave me what was left of a roll they were finished with.

I'll try and get some info on where it came from and how much it was when I go in tomorrow.

P.S. The ones they buy are 4ft x 250ft so I'll make sure to get a quote on some small rolls if I can

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

No, I got it from my work. They gave me what was left of a roll they were finished with.I try and get some info on where it came from and how much it was when I go in tomorrow.

P.S. The ones they buy are 4ft x 250ft so I'll make sure to get a quote on some smaller rolls if I can

awesome

 

[rjcastr 10+ year member]

i have the same foam , i bought two rolls for my doors as that is my next project i think i got 2 yards for about 16 bucks or so , its cheap but i hear it works really well.

 

[mannyahles 10+ year member]

So maybe I will check out the walmart egg crate. I am tackling the deadening of my doors this Sunday and I dont have time to wait for anything but home depot and wal mart are close enough by me.

 

[mannyahles 10+ year member]

I decided to buy the walmart egg crate for $11.96. Home Depots foam was online only so i couldnt even look at it.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Back in the day, I used that ^^^ exact waterproof padding behind the drivers in my doors. The only way it works is by diffusing the rearwave of the speaker only at certain frequencies (it's not broadband). Basically, the frequencies wavelengths must be higher than 1/4 of the distance between peak and trough of the dimples of the foam. In other words, if that distance is 1/2", then the wavelength can be no greater than 2". As an estimation, you're looking at full diffusion at about 6.7khz and above. No midrange that I know of will play that high.

If you do hear a difference before and after installing something like that, what's most likely happening is that you've diffused the upper harmonics (3rd, 4th order) in the back wave. This will only happen if you have not put that driver on a proper baffle. So, in reality, it's a band aid.

Since closed cell foam in general has low porosity (the camping pad is waterproof) it will not absorb sound waves (nor will it absorb water).

The moral of the story is to save your $12 and your time and invest both into making a proper baffle for the speaker, instead. A proper baffle is not a generic speaker ring; it should properly separate the front wave from the rear wave and effectively convert the rear wave to heat.

Since I absolutely hate MDF with a passion, my suggestion is to use something dense, rigid and durable for the environment. HDPE (aka cutting board plastic) is probabably the easiest to find in multiple thicknessess and the easiest to work with. It's way more dense than MDF and will serve to be a better baffle material in the long run.

The PSA-backed foam in the OP is best used as a gasket to mechanically isolate two surfaces from each other where rattling occurs. But, again you can save your money and just buy some weather stripping, IMHO.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

i found that ensolite does well for isolating two surfaces from rattling against each other.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

i found that ensolite does well for isolating the bottom of my foot from the ground in my old, worn out "skaker shoes" i've had for 11 years....

Consider the fact that coupling the door trim panel to the door itself is more of a form of mass loading than you can achieve with multiple layers of your everyday, boner of the month deadener.

It's all about that baffle, baby.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

i found that ensolite does well for isolating the bottom of my foot from the ground in my old, worn out "skaker shoes" i've had for 11 years....
Consider the fact that coupling the door trim panel to the door itself is more of a form of mass loading than you can achieve with multiple layers of your everyday, boner of the month deadener.

It's all about that baffle, baby.

my 4-layer MDF baffle isn't enough to stop my doors from rattling //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

for randomness, I just bought some of this stuff to try out in the car.

http://www.henry.com/fileadmin/pdf/datasheets/HE287SF_techdata.pdf

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

my 4-layer MDF baffle isn't enough to stop my doors from rattling //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
for randomness, I just bought some of this stuff to try out in the car.

http://www.henry.com/fileadmin/pdf/datasheets/HE287SF_techdata.pdf

Add some mass to it or rebuild it using better materials.

Oh, I was mistaken on my "HDPE is way more dense than MDF," sorry. In general though, I think plastics (HDPE,polycarbonate, polyethylene, whatever) are the way to go if you can find them. I have both resin and elastomeric-coated MDF and plastic in my "baffles", but also a shitload of deadener on the door surface as well - so it's hard to judge the actual effectiveness of the materials.

Some density figures to warm up to....

MDF = 0.6-0.8g/cm^3

HDPE = 0.960g/cm^3

Aluminum (6061) = 2.71 g/cm^3

Concrete = 2.4g/cm^3

Lead = 11.34 g/cm^3

Fiberglass/Resin 50/50 = 1.7-1.8g/cm^3

Granite = 2.75g/cm^3

Problem is material costs are way up nowadays, so it's getting harder and harder to source the good stuff on the cheap. In the end, you have to spend money somewhere if you're going to run anything above a 6.5" driver. Point is, don't waste in on foam. A proper baffle can mean +/- 3 dB of output (which we know is 2x the amplifier power, or 1/2 the amp power if you look at it that way.)

/spoon feeding. You're probably full now, eh? I kid. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

Oh, I'm not having problems with output, but too much where my panels needs much more mass to hold up to the vibrations. I'm hoping that solarflex stuff would help/cure the rattling problem.

 

[billjones42 10+ year member]

That *****. I am still angry about that incident.
That band did the same thing at a club I was working at in Mpls, a few years earlier.

It was a big rock club. The club allowed pyro, but there were rules. We needed 24 hours notice for the firemarshal to get a permit, and the club would bring in a union pyro technician who had done it there many times.

The band did not prearrange to do pyro, so they were told they could not do pyro. They agreed. I heard the SM tell them this.

Then durring the show the band set off giant flash pots that were way too big for the room and half of the flames had to go sideways across the ceiling. All 1500 people in the room could feel the heat and were scared.

The next day you could see huge black scortch marks on the ceiling.

Apparenetly they did this all the time. It was only a matter of time before they killed someone.

Then the most dangerous band on the road plays the most dangerous club on the road and it was a recipe for disaster.

I make my living working in theaters in clubs and I am very aware of fire dangers.

What club was that? 1st Ave? I think I was there......