Class D's with dual outputs

[Braindead]

I'm wiring up two 4 ohm subs in parallel to one ohm, but im kinda confused. I have a brutus 1100.1 and it has 2 negative outputs and 2 positive outputs, do i connect both positive to one post on my box and both negative to another post, then wire on the inside of the box like normal? Or should I only use one set of outputs?

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[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

the dual outputs are for convenience. they are connected together (both positive are together, both negative together). it is to make wiring multiple subs in parallel easier so you don't cram two wires into one connector.

if you can combine them at/in the box safely, then you only need to use one set at the amp.

 

[bbeljefe]

And to clarify, it isn't class Ds that are configured that way, it's some monoblocks. Some class D amps are multi-channel and some class A, A/B, et al are monoblock.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

if you hooked it up like this, http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=42#results then you only need one pos and one neg to the amp, either the inside +/- pairs or the outside ones its fine.

 

[Braindead]

the dual outputs are for convenience. they are connected together (both positive are together, both negative together). it is to make wiring multiple subs in parallel easier so you don't cram two wires into one connector.
if you can combine them at/in the box safely, then you only need to use one set at the amp.

So just use the inside set or the outside set and wire it as normal for 1 ohm, and dont even worry about the other set? That's what i thought, just wanted to clarify. Also, will i loose any power by only using one set?

 

[Braindead]

And to clarify, it isn't class Ds that are configured that way, it's some monoblocks. Some class D amps are multi-channel and some class A, A/B, et al are monoblock.

How important is it to upgrade the battery to chassis ground with the same gauge wire im grounding the amp with? I'm going to do the big 3 with 1/0 in a couple months, but i have 4 gauge amp power and grounds, could it just wait or will it hurt my amp?

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

And to clarify, it isn't class Ds that are configured that way, it's some monoblocks. Some class D amps are multi-channel and some class A, A/B, et al are monoblock.

Actually you are wrong. A lot of class d amps are done this way. The are connected internally. And by doing the multiple inputs It makes it easier for more subs to be connected

 

[bbeljefe]

Actually you are wrong. A lot of class d amps are done this way. The are connected internally. And by doing the multiple inputs It makes it easier for more subs to be connected

I understand that but, it isn't only class D amplifiers that are internally configured with two sets of terminals. The proper descriptor is monoblock, as anyone can build a class A monoblock and provide two sets of internally connected terminals. Likewise, anyone can build a class D two, four or six channel amplifier that wouldn't have need of two sets of internally connected terminals.

EDIT: Perhaps I should have said "it isn't just class D amps" that are configured that way.

 

[bbeljefe]

How important is it to upgrade the battery to chassis ground with the same gauge wire im grounding the amp with? I'm going to do the big 3 with 1/0 in a couple months, but i have 4 gauge amp power and grounds, could it just wait or will it hurt my amp?

Depends on the length of the wire and the current draw of the circuit. But for safety's sake, it's best to use like and kind on both power and ground unless you understand how to figure the current draw of each amp and the wire lengths connected to it.

That said, if I were to use smaller wire on a ground than the power... I'd never use that large a disparity. You might be okay with 2 gauge but going from 1/0 to four gauge is quite a jump.

 

[jrdnhsnbrg 10+ year member]

Using 1/0 gauge wire for your big 3 then 4 gauge for your amp isn't going to hurt anything. These guys don't know what they're talking about.

 

[drockstar 10+ year member]

I'm wiring up two 4 ohm subs in parallel to one ohm, but im kinda confused. I have a brutus 1100.1 and it has 2 negative outputs and 2 positive outputs, do i connect both positive to one post on my box and both negative to another post, then wire on the inside of the box like normal? Or should I only use one set of outputs?[/QUOT
These must be dual 4-ohm subs? If not you're looking at a 2-ohm load, not 1-ohm. Just an observation.

 

[Braindead]

I'm wiring up two 4 ohm subs in parallel to one ohm, but im kinda confused. I have a brutus 1100.1 and it has 2 negative outputs and 2 positive outputs, do i connect both positive to one post on my box and both negative to another post, then wire on the inside of the box like normal? Or should I only use one set of outputs?[/QUOT
These must be dual 4-ohm subs? If not you're looking at a 2-ohm load, not 1-ohm. Just an observation.

Yeah, dual 4's. I've been interested in car audio for far too long to make that mistake lol

 

[jrdnhsnbrg 10+ year member]

If they are dual 4 ohm subs each wired to 2 ohms hook each sub to its own positive and negative on the amp. They are connected internally in the amp so it will be a final impedance of 1 ohm. I have the Hifonics BRX1600.1d and it's set up the same way, except I only have 1 dual 4 ohm sub wired to 2 ohms. I'm considering wiring each voice coil to its own terminal on the amp, still keeping a 2 ohm load but basically doubling the speaker wire I'm using.

 

[drockstar 10+ year member]

I just went and looked at the Hifonics BXi 1610D I was running last year. It was wired with the 2 (-) and 2 (+) jumped at the amp.

 

[des343 10+ year member]

Actually you are wrong. A lot of class d amps are done this way. The are connected internally. And by doing the multiple inputs It makes it easier for more subs to be connected

and thicker wire //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif