Class AB or Class D

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

well were minutes from each other if you want feel free to take a look at my setup and school me on some things if you see anything that don't look right to you.

Come on out. Im off all next week after tomorrow.

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

Come on out. Im off all next week after tomorrow.

I will hit you up in a pm and we can get up and have a beer!

 

[Falcons 5,000+ posts]

I will hit you up in a pm and we can get up and have a beer!

you better be over 21!

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

you better be over 21!

well I was hoping he would have an ID .....................

just kidding I'm 31

 

[Falcons 5,000+ posts]

well I was hoping he would have an ID .....................
























just kidding I'm 31

me too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/sneaky.gif.7189749b3a3f769e8815b47e8ae87f88.gif

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

How about a few yagerbombs and we can rewire your whole car! That should be CA.com worthly

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

How about a few yagerbombs and we can rewire your whole car! That should be CA.com worthly

That would make for an interesting read because I d@mn sure won't remember anything!

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

That would make for an interesting read because I d@mn sure won't remember anything!

Except the car catching on fire

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

Except the car catching on fire

true that does usually stand out, but it seems like such a high point when it's going down.

 

[zako 10+ year member]

I have pretty much given up on Class A/B amplifiers even for full range application. I will use a Class A/B amplifier only to power tweeters or a small format mid at best. Here in hot Texas summers, I have seen several go into thermal protection mode and shutdown powering 6.5 speakers playing in 60Hz and up band. I could care less about alleged superiority of Class A/B amplification when no sound is coming from speakers at all. I am pretty much fed up with them. Class A/B require a carefully selected install location, placed horizontally in well ventilated area, possibly with forced cooling (even then, I had one turn off). Class D amplifiers simply work when placed wherever you can stick them in the car.

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

For the subs, all you will need is a class d. And according to some reviews, they will work good enough for your front too.

Here's a review from a few weeks ago

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifiers/521590-review-surprised-sq-class-d-full-range-amps-alpine-pdx-jl-audio-etc.html

 

[knokinnakamichi 10+ year member]

Sorry to shanghi your thread, but I hooked up my two 10" dayton HFs to my nak PA-2004 and while the SQ is absolute BLISS the amp got quite hot today! Surprisingly, my amp didn't go into protect mode, or even distort, on my rap hip hop gain set, but rather on my five finger death punch "American Capitialist" song it did! I adjusted the gain for this and figured if I needed more I could just turn up the woofer gain on the HU. All this was done at full volume....anyway my question is what is this "HD" amp you all are referring to? BC I don't like my amp getting hot and when I get new speakers I plan on moving my nak to them and getting a class D amp for the subs, but I DONT WANNA GIVE UP THE SQ I have with this amp and subs>>>>?

EDIT: Looking for 800 w x2 at 4 ohms for SVC

 

[BlackHawk99 10+ year member]

As stated before class D's are higher distortion which is fine for a sub because you can't really hear any distortion (unless it's either clipping or you have a very trained ear). It all depends on application though. Class D is awesome because they are efficient. You can run nearly 1000w of class D power (unclamped) in any car and not run into too many issues. Try running 1000w of A/B power on the other hand and your voltage will hate you. Comes down to how much power you are running...if you want a low power SQ setup, I would suggest A/B power. If you aren't an SQ nut or want to run more than say 500w I would go with class D just because it will be a lot less strain on your electrical.

^^^This is why I am thinking of going with a Rockford Fosgate Power T1000-1BDCP for a sub or two in a sealed enclosure. 700W x 1 @ 4-Ohms, 1000W x 1 @ 2-Ohms, 1000W x 1 @ 1-Ohm (RMS) I have a 4 channel AB amp for my fronts, a Rockford Power T600-4. 100 x 4 @ 4 ohms. I would hate to add another AB amp only to find out it strains my electrical system too much. I think my stock alternator is 80 amp. I think the SQ factor is more about the sub and enclosure, not the class of amp when we are talking subs. Fronts are a different story IMO.

 

[jirehn 10+ year member]

I think it has a difference, That's why they have different class.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I think the SQ factor is more about the sub and enclosure, not the class of amp when we are talking subs.

This is exactly right.