Changing amps?

[Ninja1990 10+ year member]

My current system is:

2x Alpine MRP-M500 500W RMS @ 2ohms

Each mono runs a rockford fosgate punch P3 DVC P3D412, which peaks at 1000 So I can always hit the rms, but never go higher that that (in theory).

Alpine MRP-F300

Which I had bridged to my tweets (yeah 300W to my tweets)

Alpine MRP-F550

Which was bridged to my mids.

Originally I was under the impression that no one ran rears?

I got rear ended my amp rack broke and my fronts are blown (I was sitting still and she was going 40+)

So after looking around researching and talking I came up with this for a replacement.

Infinity Kappa 693.11i 6x9's (run in parallel @ 2ohms)

Infinity Kappa 60.11cs 6 1/2's (run in parallel @ 2ohms)

Hifonics ZRX2000.4 4 Channel running fronts and rears @ 500W RMS x 4 @ 2 Ohms

(Those drivers are stable at 2 ohms, the competitors in the class were only 4-ohm stable

For the subs, same Rockford's 500 Watts RMS 1000 Watts Max

and I was looking to run them @1 ohm off a single amp. They are Dual 4-ohm, so they run at 2 with the voice coils in parallel, so if I rum them both off the same amp it'll be a 2ohm load.

I've narrowed it down to either

Hifonics ZRX2000.1D

or

Hifonics BRX2000.1D

Originally I was looking at the Zues series (zrx) but then I saw the Brutus (BRX) and it's not that much more expensive.

THe only differences (besides aesthetically) I found were:

ZRX

650W RMS x 1 @ 4 Ohms

1300W RMS x 1 @ 2 Ohms

2000W RMS x 1 @ 1 Ohm

BRX

700W RMS x 1 @ 4 Ohms

1400W RMS x 1 @ 2 Ohms

2000W RMS x 1 @ 1 Ohm

Also The BRX are CAE-2006 compliant. Which is a big plus to me, especially since in thee past everyone had always been complaining about them being under powered.

My question basically is which mono block should I go with and why?

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[CSCStang]

My current system is:2x Alpine MRP-M500 500W RMS @ 2ohms

Each mono runs a rockford fosgate punch P3 DVC P3D412, which peaks at 1000 So I can always hit the rms, but never go higher that that (in theory).

Alpine MRP-F300

Which I had bridged to my tweets (yeah 300W to my tweets)

Alpine MRP-F550

Which was bridged to my mids.

Originally I was under the impression that no one ran rears?

I got rear ended my amp rack broke and my fronts are blown (I was sitting still and she was going 40+)

So after looking around researching and talking I came up with this for a replacement.

Infinity Kappa 693.11i 6x9's (run in parallel @ 2ohms)

Infinity Kappa 60.11cs 6 1/2's (run in parallel @ 2ohms)

Hifonics ZRX2000.4 4 Channel running fronts and rears @ 500W RMS x 4 @ 2 Ohms

(Those drivers are stable at 2 ohms, the competitors in the class were only 4-ohm stable

For the subs, same Rockford's 500 Watts RMS 1000 Watts Max

and I was looking to run them @1 ohm off a single amp. They are Dual 4-ohm, so they run at 2 with the voice coils in parallel, so if I rum them both off the same amp it'll be a 2ohm load.

I've narrowed it down to either

Hifonics ZRX2000.1D

or

Hifonics BRX2000.1D

Originally I was looking at the Zues series (zrx) but then I saw the Brutus (BRX) and it's not that much more expensive.

THe only differences (besides aesthetically) I found were:

ZRX

650W RMS x 1 @ 4 Ohms

1300W RMS x 1 @ 2 Ohms

2000W RMS x 1 @ 1 Ohm

BRX

700W RMS x 1 @ 4 Ohms

1400W RMS x 1 @ 2 Ohms

2000W RMS x 1 @ 1 Ohm

Also The BRX are CAE-2006 compliant. Which is a big plus to me, especially since in thee past everyone had always been complaining about them being under powered.

My question basically is which mono block should I go with and why?

Out of those 2, the BRX man. Zeus series are garbage amps. Running parallel/parallel will give you a 1 ohm load. Set your gains right though. For those I would run no more than 1400rms total @1 ohm and see how those p3's take it. Btw, never look at the "max" rating on anything. Just a marketing gimmick.

 

[Ninja1990 10+ year member]

I always though that too, but isnt that for short bursts of power, I know rms is your sustained consistent power

Are the 4channel zues ok? they don't make anything 2000W in any of their other classes that I could find most only do around 1200RMS

 

[CSCStang]

I always though that too, but isnt that for short bursts of power, I know rms is your sustained consistent power
Are the 4channel zues ok? they don't make anything 2000W in any of their other classes that I could find most only do around 1200RMS

Don't waste your money on the Zeus series bro. Are you looking to replace your 4 channel too?

 

[Ninja1990 10+ year member]

Don't waste your money on the Zeus series bro. Are you looking to replace your 4 channel too?

Yeah, just because the 500W and the 300W arent gonna power those mids and highs, im looking for around 2000RMS

 

[Ninja1990 10+ year member]

I'd like to be around 2000W RMS total. I think that's the right thing? I'm running 2 channels to the front, one to each crossover, and 2 channels to the back one to each 6x9. I specifically picked all 2 ohm speakers, if I run them in parallel that will drop me to one ohm? If I run them in series then I'm up to 4 ohms? The amp I mentioned before is 500W RMS x 4 @ 2 Ohms, 250W RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohms.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I always though that too, but isnt that for short bursts of power, I know rms is your sustained consistent power
Are the 4channel zues ok? they don't make anything 2000W in any of their other classes that I could find most only do around 1200RMS

Peak numbers is when they run the amp at 20 volts at max clipping, the number it makes right before it dies basically useless you'll never ever see that power. You'll be lucky to see RMS power.

Reason why is because of a thing called box/impedance rise, wire down to 1 ohm, you'll probably still be at 2-3 ohms after rise. You need to account in voltage drops too. Music is also dynamic not a 40hz tone it goes up and down. Out of a 1000 rms amp you'll most likely see 200-500 actual watts rms on music after accounting in every physical factor.

First off, What are your goals here? Sound quality? loudness? Both? Or insane balls to the walls crazy? Also what head unit are you running? Do you have a Digital Sound Processor? What kind of box are you putting those p3s in? Give us a budget and we'll recommend you good stuff.

Hifonics is budget stuff. They are power hogs, inefficient and barely get close to rated power. The zeus series are junk its like buying boss audio when you touch the zeus series. Trust me, I'm running two of them now, and if i can i'd jump for quality gear.

Crescendo Audio C1100.4 - 300 watts x 4 channel Concerto Series Amplifier - SSA STORE More power then you'll ever need. No need for bridging at all with this amp. Its underrated too. it'll do more rms power then stated and is better built all around with great sound quality.

SoundQubed Q1-2200D Amplifier - SSA STORE This is a real 2000 rms amp. Underrated and half ohm stable will cut through a hifonics brx 2400 like it was swiss cheese. (direct swap comparison between the two, was a total steamroll)

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Also The BRX are CAE-2006 compliant. Which is a big plus to me, especially since in thee past everyone had always been complaining about them being under powered.

CEA compliant doesn't mean jack, the best amps in the world are not CEA compliant. Its just mainly a sticker to jack up the price. The testing is done at 4 ohms. Meaning that amp will make power at 4 ohms but you have no idea if it will make power at 2 or 1 ohms where it actually matters.

Take a look around the store I linked you. It has very high quality stuff all around and competition level stuff that squashes out any mainstream brand can throw at it.

 

[Ninja1990 10+ year member]

I knew the Zues was bad, that's actually what I got recommended to me, and I know some people that run it and its pretty loud, louder than my alpines ever were... Could be the way they were wired?

I am going for sql at the moment, as sql as I can get without going Focal quality stuff.

The headunit I'm running at the moment is Alpine CDA-117 (4v preouts)

I'm hoping to switch by the end of the year to the Kenwood Execelon. It has 5v preouts and a 13 band EQ.

Attached are some pictures of my box, (I didnt get a lot) and the diagram I used.

but its tuned to Fb = 34.5 Hz Vb = 3.2 ft^3 which is exactly what they ask for //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

yup, its because of what i said before. Box rise. you were wired to half ohm but in actuality you are pretty much at 3-4 ohm after box rise seeing only what that amp can do at 4 ohms.

Also you were running two amps, the gain settings have to be 100% symetrical or else there will be cancellation which is what you might have experienced. Thats why you strap amps or run 1 big amp.

Check out those amps on SSA man. Heck, check out the subs they have there. They'll make p3s, kicker L7s look like church, if you ever want to upgrade down the future that is. Stuff from that site will completely blow all your friend's stuff out of the water.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I knew the Zues was bad, that's actually what I got recommended to me, and I know some people that run it and its pretty loud, louder than my alpines ever were... Could be the way they were wired?
I am going for sql at the moment, as sql as I can get without going Focal quality stuff.

The headunit I'm running at the moment is Alpine CDA-117 (4v preouts)

I'm hoping to switch by the end of the year to the Kenwood Execelon. It has 5v preouts and a 13 band EQ.

Attached are some pictures of my box, (I didnt get a lot) and the diagram I used.

but its tuned to Fb = 34.5 Hz Vb = 3.2 ft^3 which is exactly what they ask for //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Why would you change that deck to a Kenwood? Please don't do that

 

[Ninja1990 10+ year member]

That's what I said something that can be bought at walmart...but the execelon series is no that, it is actually better than the one I have. Like i said 5v preouts and 13band eq, the comparible Alpine is onle 9band eq and 4v preouts, plus this has nav and timecorrection same as any other spl headunit.

This years Double din sq headunits with NAV I've seen ranked at: #1 Pioneer AVIC-8000NEX, # 2. Kenwood DNN990HD, # 3. JVC KW-NT810HDT, # 4. Pioneer AVIC-7000NEX, # 5. Alpine INE-Z928HD (the alpine I was looking at getting), # 6. Clarion NX603.

Trust me it was a very hard sell for me, but the "Kenwood's and "JVC's" you see at walmart ar mostly made theird pary and slapped with the label, the higher end (Pioneer premier) are actually good.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

we know what kind of head units you are talking about man. He just has a predisposition towards that brand. Those double din navi head units puts out decent SQ, lack a few advanced audiophile tuning capabilities but get the job done well for a daily listener so i think you'll be fine, you'll enjoy the time alignment. We all avoid walmart like the plague too man.

 

[Ninja1990 10+ year member]

I looked through the site, everything is so expensive, I'm trying to keep it around $200ish and I don't see that happening on there everything Under $400 is a monoblock. I might just have to go with the Zues in my daily driver, should have another car in a next year and it will get competition audio setup in it, but if I can get a comparable or a little better for around the same price, that'd be great.

 

[Babykinns 10+ year member]

Why would you change that deck to a Kenwood? Please don't do that

I second this. The alpine would sound way better.