car acts up around 40mph

[MisterGrubbs 5,000+ posts]

Im not exactly sure. I have an impala almost the same car but i never had that problem.. But these guys might help. http://www.naioa.com. its a impala/monte carlo forum.

Not a bad idea, just like you come here for people(well, some people) who know their audio, why not go to a forum dedicated to cars when yours fvcks up, eh?

Best of luck, sir

 

[bad @SS chevy 10+ year member]

thank you all. Im going to go have stripper *** now. thanks

 

[Ferendon 10+ year member]

And even though it wont solve anything, throw some injectore cleaner and some 93 octane in that bisch to make her happier

A tank of 93 won't do any good. It will more than likely make your gas mileage even worse. The octane ratings measures the gasoline's ability to resist detonation (knocking). In other words, higher octane = needs more compression to pop. If the car isn't pinging or knocking, then there is absolutely no need to run anything other than what you have in it now. On cars that don't provide the compression needed to get a good burn out of premium, you're only going to end up with worse gas mileage.

http://www.quiktrip.com/gasoline/myth.asp

Even QT put it on their website.

http://money.cnn.com/2006/07/19/pf/saving/willis/index.htm

Again on CNN.

http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/transportation/consumer_tips/regular_vs_premium.html

And the CEC, citing the American Petroleum Institute.

Do the RPMs do any skipping around, or do they just stutter along with the car. If the RPMs stutter with the acceleration, it's probably engine problems, if the RPMs jump or sit still, it's probably a ***** problem. Pull your plugs and take a pick of the electrodes and check them against something like this : http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htm

If you have an ohm meter you can test your plug wires, assuming you know the resistance per foot they should be at. Most auto parts stores can test DIS modules, if the car has one. This can fail at specific RPM ranges, without failing completely.

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

LOL @ blinker fluid... My I have a cold air intake k&n filter,, Maybe ill just try cleaning that with the k&n cleaner.

last time i checked the K&n didnt need to be cleaned for like 100k miles. at least thats what the one i had for my ***** am said. and if i recall the cleaner is almost as much as buying a new one so might as well get a new one if thats the case.

spark plugs? or bad injector maybe? not a mechanic or anything but sounds like fuel issue or gear slipping.

 

[Ferendon 10+ year member]

They have to be cleaned every 50-60k miles, and they recharge kit is only $10... If you over-oil the filter, though, you can get fluid on the MAF element, and cause some stuttering, and general bad performance. Nothing a little electronic contact cleaner can't fix. If you clean your MAF, be super careful not to touch or contaminate the element, and let it dry completely before you reinstall it.

 

[Thedeadly1 10+ year member]

Engine oil, ****** oil, Air filter, bad gas. First get a cai, and junk the cats.

 

[MorningWood]

Take your car to a real mechanic that can do a dignostic on it. It has to be one that is honest AND knows what he is doing, if not he will come up with all kinds of crap that he says needs to be fixed but really does not.

I just went through this -- a couple of "tire store" mechanics came up with all kinds of different repairs.

Like you, I had just had my spark plugs changed not long ago. It turns out that one of the plugs was simply not tightened enough and this was causing an arc that resulted in some buildup. I would highly recommend that you check this out first --- it did not cost a dime to fix.

It seems as though this is likely to occur after a spark plug change.

It is possible to strip the threads if you tighten them too much so sometimes people err on the side of not tightening them enough.

 

[mk_ 10+ year member]

A tank of 93 won't do any good. It will more than likely make your gas mileage even worse. The octane ratings measures the gasoline's ability to resist detonation (knocking). In other words, higher octane = needs more compression to pop. If the car isn't pinging or knocking, then there is absolutely no need to run anything other than what you have in it now. On cars that don't provide the compression needed to get a good burn out of premium, you're only going to end up with worse gas mileage.
http://www.quiktrip.com/gasoline/myth.asp

Even QT put it on their website.

http://money.cnn.com/2006/07/19/pf/saving/willis/index.htm

Again on CNN.

http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/transportation/consumer_tips/regular_vs_premium.html

And the CEC, citing the American Petroleum Institute.

Do the RPMs do any skipping around, or do they just stutter along with the car. If the RPMs stutter with the acceleration, it's probably engine problems, if the RPMs jump or sit still, it's probably a ***** problem. Pull your plugs and take a pick of the electrodes and check them against something like this : http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htm

If you have an ohm meter you can test your plug wires, assuming you know the resistance per foot they should be at. Most auto parts stores can test DIS modules, if the car has one. This can fail at specific RPM ranges, without failing completely.

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