He he he .... I just loooove to stir things up from time to time //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
The debate over whether caps really work or not , is ALWAYS hotly debated. I'm not posting to open up a technical discussion , but rather tell of my experience this past week , and let YOU decipher what you want from it.
One of our fellow forum members hired me to fly to his home and install a competition level system in his new car, as well as provide the equipment. He purchased a great 1500 amp Odyssey Dry Cell battery, but his stock alternator is only rated at 80 amps !!! He's using three amplifiers in his system. One is bridged in to 2 ohms at 1400 watts on a sub. One provides 270 w/ch to his 6.5" drivers , and one is 170 w/ch for his tweeters ... That's a total peak output of 2280 watts .....
With his head unit's high 8 volt output , the gains on his amps are set at almost dead minimum , and yet the system will still play louder than a person really wants to listen to for long. Point is : His gains are set properly ....
He's using 1/0 power and ground wire , and the Big 3 were also done.
He went for a test drive and had VERY , VERY bad pulsating headlight dimming. WAY too much to be acceptable.
Now ... I reccomended a high output alternator , but he didn't like that idea at all at first. So after speaking with me about car charging systems , he decided to buy a Stinger Hybrid 10 farad Cap .....
After the Cap was installed , he has NO MORE DIMMING HEADLIGHTS !!!
Simply put again : You be the judge , but in this case YES .... A cap worked.
As a last note , he ended up finally deciding to go ahead with my suggestion and also buy a high output alternator that he should have in a couple of weeks .....
Cheers , and let the debating begin //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif :laugh: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
The debate over whether caps really work or not , is ALWAYS hotly debated. I'm not posting to open up a technical discussion , but rather tell of my experience this past week , and let YOU decipher what you want from it.
One of our fellow forum members hired me to fly to his home and install a competition level system in his new car, as well as provide the equipment. He purchased a great 1500 amp Odyssey Dry Cell battery, but his stock alternator is only rated at 80 amps !!! He's using three amplifiers in his system. One is bridged in to 2 ohms at 1400 watts on a sub. One provides 270 w/ch to his 6.5" drivers , and one is 170 w/ch for his tweeters ... That's a total peak output of 2280 watts .....
With his head unit's high 8 volt output , the gains on his amps are set at almost dead minimum , and yet the system will still play louder than a person really wants to listen to for long. Point is : His gains are set properly ....
He's using 1/0 power and ground wire , and the Big 3 were also done.
He went for a test drive and had VERY , VERY bad pulsating headlight dimming. WAY too much to be acceptable.
Now ... I reccomended a high output alternator , but he didn't like that idea at all at first. So after speaking with me about car charging systems , he decided to buy a Stinger Hybrid 10 farad Cap .....
After the Cap was installed , he has NO MORE DIMMING HEADLIGHTS !!!
Simply put again : You be the judge , but in this case YES .... A cap worked.
As a last note , he ended up finally deciding to go ahead with my suggestion and also buy a high output alternator that he should have in a couple of weeks .....
Cheers , and let the debating begin //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif :laugh: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
