Can you assess my budget build?


KingArthur2016

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 7, 2021
7
0
Reading, PA
First post:

I’m trying to put together a budget audio system for my mini cooper. Obviously I don’t have a ton of room. The one advantage (I think) is the battery is in the trunk, so I guess I can just wire the amp to he terminals. Not sure if that’s a good idea or not. I chose an entry level sub that has good ‘accuracy’ rather than being real loud. I listen to a lot of edm so I wanted something that can handle that well… Looking for advice or if I’m making any stupid mistakes. Generally trying to keep the price range around 6-700. Thanks in advance for your help!

Already have:
Pioneer DEH-S5120BT

Considering buying:
-JBL CLUB-5501 Monoblock Amplifier 1300W Peak (650W RMS) Club Series Class D Monoblock Amplifier
-TOPSTRONGGEAR 4 Gauge Amp Kit True 4 AWG Amplifier Installation Wiring Amp Kit Install Cables
-Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference HO DVC Subwoofer
-Atrend Bbox E10S Pro-Series 10” Single Sealed / Wedge Shape Subwoofer Enclosure, charcoal
-JBL GTO939 Premium 6 x 9 Inches Co-Axial Speaker - Set of 2
-JBL GTO609C Premium 6.5-Inch Component Speaker System
https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc...
https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc...
https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc...
https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc...
https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc...
https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc...
 

Bobbytwonames

Trigger Man!
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Looks pretty good. If I were you, I would consider getting a four channel amp and powering the components with two channels and powering the sub with the other two channels. Power the 6"x9"'s off the deck or delete them.
 

SlugButter

CarAudio.com Elite
Nov 5, 2019
1,483
514
arizona
I agree with Bobby, but it might be cheaper to use a monoblock for the sub and a small 2 channel for the components. A four channel amp that will bridge to 500-600 rms might cost a bit.
 

Bobbytwonames

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I agree with Bobby, but it might be cheaper to use a monoblock for the sub and a small 2 channel for the components. A four channel amp that will bridge to 500-600 rms might cost a bit.
Maybe, delete the 6"x9"'s and that mono amp and get this amp.

Screenshot_20210507-213640_Chrome.jpg
 

KingArthur2016

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 7, 2021
7
0
Reading, PA
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
So this is where I get a little fuzzy. If i get a 4 way amp like that, won't I need to get component speakers that are capable of 500w rms?

I don't get how using a 4 channel amp for 2x component speakers and a sub works. If you've got a 500w x4 amp, the idea is you bridge 2 channels for the sub and send the other 2 channels to the components right? Wouldnt that destroy your component speakers?
 

nauc

CarAudio.com Veteran
10+ year member
Mar 22, 2005
3,339
86
USA
id get a good set of comps up front, a sub and an amp

ditch the rears

you can run a 500 watt amp to 100 watt speakers, if you set the amp gain right. heres how. the test tones are at the very bottom...

 

KingArthur2016

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 7, 2021
7
0
Reading, PA
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
Okay. So if I set the gain correctly I can avoid blowing anything up?

In that case what do you think about a 5 channel amp with a mono class D channel? Would this be better/generate less heat etc.

If I go with the two front components and the mono/sub, do you think the sub will completely overwhelm the front 6.5s?

Also, since my head unit is 13w x4, does that mean I can bridge the channels and send those bridged channels to my rear 6x9s while running the fronts and subs off RCA's?

This is my first build, please be patient. Lol.

Thanks
 

Bobbytwonames

Trigger Man!
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Aug 28, 2018
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A 5 channel amp will be pricey. Get a four channel and run two channel s to the components and the other two to the the sub. If you keep the 6"x9"'s then run them off the deck.
 
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nauc

CarAudio.com Veteran
10+ year member
Mar 22, 2005
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86
USA
yah, dont bridge your deck, that can ruin it

as far as subs being too loud or blowing stuff up, thats why you gotta set the amp gain right.

fwiw, im using 1 12" sub off a 600 watt amp and im running my front speakers off the deck. the sub doesnt over power the fronts at all. BUT if it did, i could always turn the sub amp gain down
 
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KingArthur2016

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 7, 2021
7
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Reading, PA
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
Thanks for the replies…. I’m continuing to research this… I'm bouncing around a lot trying to figure out what to do.

So where I’ve landed now is that I’m probably going to get 2 amps. A 5 channel amp that’s got at least a 500w class d channel and also has a subsonic filter is more expensive than all the other components I want to get combined. I can get a 1500w monoblock type D and a 4 channel 400w amp for about $200 altogether. I’m using the 4 channel amp because it’s cheaper than any comparable 2 channel. The thing I don’t like about that amp is it’s going to need to be bridged to send 4ohm to my component speakers which will be sending them 2x more power than they’re rated for.

I’m hoping that going through the gain setting procedure with a voltmeter and reference track is going to keep the components safe.

Here's a link to another thread I made in the sub section. I'm trying to use a ported box. I explain more there. The one I posted in my first post in this thread is the wrong size; not sure how I missed it.

https://www.caraudio.com/threads/f3-port-length-etc.608053/#post-8745023

Amps:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072L7YFE/?tag=caraudiocom-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FGV0V0W/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Bad idea to buy these components? They do seem awfully cheap. However I can't understand how something of the same power and performance can be 4-5-6x the price?
 

Bobbytwonames

Trigger Man!
5,000+ posts
Aug 28, 2018
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Thanks for the replies…. I’m continuing to research this… I'm bouncing around a lot trying to figure out what to do.

So where I’ve landed now is that I’m probably going to get 2 amps. A 5 channel amp that’s got at least a 500w class d channel and also has a subsonic filter is more expensive than all the other components I want to get combined. I can get a 1500w monoblock type D and a 4 channel 400w amp for about $200 altogether. I’m using the 4 channel amp because it’s cheaper than any comparable 2 channel. The thing I don’t like about that amp is it’s going to need to be bridged to send 4ohm to my component speakers which will be sending them 2x more power than they’re rated for.

I’m hoping that going through the gain setting procedure with a voltmeter and reference track is going to keep the components safe.

Here's a link to another thread I made in the sub section. I'm trying to use a ported box. I explain more there. The one I posted in my first post in this thread is the wrong size; not sure how I missed it.

https://www.caraudio.com/threads/f3-port-length-etc.608053/#post-8745023

Amps:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072L7YFE/?tag=caraudiocom-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FGV0V0W/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Bad idea to buy these components? They do seem awfully cheap. However I can't understand how something of the same power and performance can be 4-5-6x the price?
That Power Acoustic amp is junk. Get a Sundown SFB1K.
 
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Coolhand20th

CarAudio.com Elite VIP
Mar 27, 2019
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That taramps is fine but that Power Acoustic isn't worth close to 50 bucks let alone that much. Pick up the SFB 1K or SFB 1.5K they make more then rated along with a 2 year warranty from Sundown, they stand behind their products and there is a reason so many people run those amplifiers and their subwoofers.
 
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Coolhand20th

CarAudio.com Elite VIP
Mar 27, 2019
1,623
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lol Right? I remember none of my amplifiers in the early '90s having that sort of thing and I ran RF, Phoenix Gold back when it was legit, PPI, even the Radioshack amplifiers were a budget gem back then as they were made by PPI and very affordable as well especially since one of my good friends worked there,lol.
 

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