Can this handle 3000 watt system??

a friend of mine has a saab 9000 turbo he ran a memphis PRD16-1000.1 full tilt for just under an hour with the car off and some how the thing was able to start. the voltage on the dash read 11.4V dont ask me how? i had about 800W in a mustang at the time and after 15 minutes i had to jump it. he had a newer 675CCA battery.

Edit: but he had doubled 8ga that might have done it i had 0 and 3 small amps, 1 500bd, 1 550S, 1 350S.

 
a friend of mine has a saab 9000 turbo he ran a memphis PRD16-1000.1 full tilt for just under an hour with the car off and some how the thing was able to start. the voltage on the dash read 11.4V dont ask me how? i had about 800W in a mustang at the time and after 15 minutes i had to jump it. he had a newer 675CCA battery.
Edit: but he had doubled 8ga that might have done it i had 0 and 3 small amps, 1 500bd, 1 550S, 1 350S.
Lmao mustans are a joke, my buddies 03 died when I had the key turned to accessory for 15 min to see if everything was working correctly when I installed his nw HU....

 
If a Saab is built so well, why is GM trying to sell the company? If it doesn't sell, they are going to axe it altogether.
http://money.cnn.com/galleries/2009/autos/0902/gallery.chrysler_changes/11.html

Also, I find it hilarious when people try to argue against science. That amp is going to pull more than 130A of current to produce 1800-2000 watts. Even if your magical Saab had 4 gauge wiring under the hood, which it doesn't, it would only be rated to support 150A of current.
sweden govt is supporting saab, its not going anywhere

how does this relate to anything? because saab doesnt sell my amps must not be putting out 1.8k?

you're an idiot

if you dont think its possible, come on by and ill crush your little world and everything you think you know

anyone? im in charleston

 
sweden govt is supporting saab, its not going anywherehow does this relate to anything?

you're an idiot

if you dont think its possible, come on by and ill crush your little world and everything you think you know

anyone? im in charleston
Oh noes, calling random forum people names. You haven't done anything to scientifically support your original claims. You've only gotten defensive and talked sh!t to random forum people. You're the one that looks like an idiot to everyone here.

Grow up, nobody wants to meet you.

because saab doesnt sell my amps must not be putting out 1.8k?
If that is the point you thought I was making, your logic is horrible. But you're probably just trying to boost yourself by diverting from everyone challenging your claim and trying to make me look stupid, which gives me a good laugh.

 
Meh, good luck OP. I have had good luck with a 2400 Kinetik as my starter battery and the small 600 in the back in 0/1g hyperflex wire and big 3 done in same wire and would dip into the low 12's, which was fine.

I wish I could afford that stuff now.

New install doing 0/1g Knu wire not the flexable stuff either and a group34 optima red top as my starter and a 5100 Powermaster in the back and big 3 in same wire. Hoping for close to what I used to have. Wish I never sold that stuff now.....

 
Oh noes, calling random forum people names. You haven't done anything to scientifically support your original claims. You've only gotten defensive and talked sh!t to random forum people. You're the one that looks like an idiot to everyone here.
Grow up, nobody wants to meet you.

If that is the point you thought I was making, your logic is horrible. But you're probably just trying to boost yourself by diverting from everyone challenging your claim and trying to make me look stupid, which gives me a good laugh.
i dont know the science dude, i made that pretty clear, it works and it doesnt dim, case closed

the idiots are the ones trying to tell people what will and will not work, because you dont know, i dont care who you are, you dont know

 
Stock 140 amp alt, big three in 1/0 wire, 1/0 power wire from bat to amp, and a spare say.....d3100 in trunk? if i ran a 3000 watt amp on this do you think ill be alright, or should i beef it up some more? maby a yellowtop for the front batt to?
140 * 14 (volts) * .8 (efficiency) = 1,568 watts @ 14 volts (What your alternator / amps can produce with out the need of a battery.)

You should get an alternator at least 280 amperes, preferably more, then get a battery or two, one up front and one in the back.

140 * 12 (volts) * .8 (efficiency) = 1,344 watts @ 12 volts

You can get a full battery bank, but that's just covering up the main problem, being that your alternator is not creating enough power. Kinda like you're going into debt and hoping that your salary will pay off as long as you keep taking out loans to pay off other debts.

 
I run a 120amp stock alty with a 1/0 off the alty going directly back to a d3100 in the trunk. The stock battery is in the trunk and is wired to the alty with the stock 4awg wires. The stock battery and d3100 are only connected at the positive terminal on the alty so pretty much all the current pull comes off the d3100 in the trunk.

i've been running a kx 2500.1 full tilt daily for almost a year now with no problems. Average voltage drop depending on the notes will be from 13.5v down to 12.5v. It helps to every now and then drive the car for 20 min or more without bassing to let the battery charge up some. The sundowns aren't nearly as efficent, but with a YT up front and a d3100 in the back you'll be okay as long as you keep and eye on your voltage and dont let it drop under 12v. Get a digital voltometer for up front and you'll be set.

 
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