Can a stock alt run this entry-level system?

[zorphon 10+ year member]

My new amp will take 340 watts RMS and my headunit 88watts (all channels added) RMS.

That's a total of 61 amps being used taking (340*2) + (88*2)= 856. I multiplied by two assuming it's not very effective being an A/B amp. 856/14 (assuming my battery isn't doing full voltage) = 61.14 amps. Granted it would probably only use half of that during normal use, if that.

Considering my stock alt is stated at 95 amps I'm assuming it has about 80% efficiency so that would be 76 amps. Assuming normal functions like lights, AC, etc. take half of that it leaves me with 38 amps in reserve. All my stuff would take about that many amps. It's basically going to be using the entirety of the reserves on my alternator. But that's considering I haven't done the Big 3 yet. Taking that into consideration I would say the alternator/battery become 90% (10% more) effective because of the way better current and ground.

That would leave me with 42-44amps instead of 38 amps in reserve, and my equipment would probably use 30amps on average in normal play, going up to 35-40 while peaking. So I'm still going to be using almost all my reserves of alternator amperage when playing music, but at least it should be able to do it. Would you guys suggest investing in a capacitor since after everything my alternator will only have a couple amps in reserve, and a capacitor would keep the voltage more stable?

Thanks in advance.

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[09civic 5,000+ posts]

Caps do nothing. Don't buy one. Your stock alt should be fine. Make sure you do Big 3 at least.

 

[zorphon 10+ year member]

Sure thing.

Would a battery such as http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17907_SHURiKEN-SK-BT20.html help? Could my stock 95 amp alt run it without being strained?

And yes I'll be doing the Big 3 in the next couple weeks, a week or so after I do the rest of my install.

 

[pr-festiva 10+ year member]

so your running a 340 watt amp and a head unit?

 

[zorphon 10+ year member]

so your running a 340 watt amp and a head unit?

Yes, 340w RMS and a 88w RMS (with all 4 channels added) head unit. But my old 300w RMS amp made my lights flicker, and my new system takes (slightly) more power.

 

[zorphon 10+ year member]

so your running a 340 watt amp and a head unit?

Yes, 340w RMS and a 88w RMS (with all 4 channels added) head unit. But my old 300w RMS amp made my lights flicker, and my new system takes (slightly) more power.

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

Well take comfort in this. Your head unit does no where near that what so ever and your amp more then likely will not do those numbers either.

 

[jokers10 10+ year member]

Normally just doing the big 3 properly will fix head light flicker up to 1000 watts in most cars. If you upgrade your starting battery to an AGM style battery meant to replace your stock battery, and you do your big 3 correctly, I can almost guarantee that your headlight will not flicker running your 340 Watt RMS amp. I would also recommend XS power for that battery.

 

[UnderFire 10+ year member]

I ran 800 on completely stock electrical, 60A alt. Just get a good sized battery and you're good up to around 1K. changing the big 3 will keep the voltage up a bit.

 

[zorphon 10+ year member]

Well take comfort in this. Your head unit does no where near that what so ever and your amp more then likely will not do those numbers either.

Well it is CEA-2006 compliant (the head unit) so I thought that meant it was test at that wattage? But yea the amp probably doesn't do that much.

 

[zorphon 10+ year member]

I ran 800 on completely stock electrical, 60A alt. Just get a good sized battery and you're good up to around 1K. changing the big 3 will keep the voltage up a bit.

Sure thing. Going to install this new system this week and if I have the flicker problems like my old system I'll look into a new battery. Shortly after I do the install I'm going to do Big 3 so if that doesn't solve anything then a battery it is.

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

Yes, 340w RMS and a 88w RMS (with all 4 channels added) head unit. But my old 300w RMS amp made my lights flicker, and my new system takes (slightly) more power.

You have more problems here then... You shouldnt have any dimming on 300 watts...

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

Yes, 340w RMS and a 88w RMS (with all 4 channels added) head unit. But my old 300w RMS amp made my lights flicker, and my new system takes (slightly) more power.

You have more problems here then... You shouldnt have any dimming on 300 watts...

 

[zorphon 10+ year member]

You have more problems here then... You shouldnt have any dimming on 300 watts...

Well I wouldn't know about the grounds and what-not, I had it all professionally installed by someone for my old system. And the gains only looked like they were turned about halfway up. Not sure. I mean, maybe my alt is going bad? Idk.

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

Well I wouldn't know about the grounds and what-not, I had it all professionally installed by someone for my old system. And the gains only looked like they were turned about halfway up. Not sure. I mean, maybe my alt is going bad? Idk.

Either your alt or batt id going bad... Id check the Batt first