Caleb's SQ "Re"build log.

That vent is going to act like a port so you might need to do a few calculations before deciding on how long itll be. Even if the port doesnt add the benefit of using the rearwave on certain frequencies it will change the way the speaker reacts thus changing the front wave.

a bigger pipe would negate that though. With a 8 inch mid I would use a 4inch pipe

 
Quick question about the fiberglass isulation. I was told to never use it because it would retain water in places especially like doors. Anybody heard anything like that before?

 
It's approximately 4" coincidentally. I'll measure how long tomorrow.But how does length go into play? It'll be playing 60-80hz - 250-300hz.
Building a vented enclosure for speakers is based on the same math that you'd use for a subwoofer enclosure, unless you're going to use one of the vague "rules of thumb" for port area. The amount of air in the port dictates the tuning. Cross sectional area of the pipe x length.

 
Quick question about the fiberglass isulation. I was told to never use it because it would retain water in places especially like doors. Anybody heard anything like that before?
If it could be exposed to moisture it should be sealed in plastic. The standard covering we use is 1 mil paint drop cloth plastic cut to fit and sealed with clear packing tape. It's thin enough to allow sound to pass through it, at least the frequencies we need to affect.

 
Building a vented enclosure for speakers is based on the same math that you'd use for a subwoofer enclosure, unless you're going to use one of the vague "rules of thumb" for port area. The amount of air in the port dictates the tuning. Cross sectional area of the pipe x length.
So cross sectional length x length of pipe = ??

 
A layer of mat and vinyl wrap, these should be good to go. I'm considering using Velcro to hold the panel in place.

Then on to the amp rack... All that's left of the amp rack is mounting the plexiglass, carpeting the inside and mounting the amps.

IMG_20140105_023149_zps39918362.jpg


Flush to carpet

IMG_20140105_030737_zps22b3e790.jpg


Tiny gap. May bondo it, but i don't think it's enough to cry about.

IMG_20140105_030741_zps62495b08.jpg


Nice fit with the rail panel

IMG_20140105_030746_zps5801b7c4.jpg


Somewhat decent fit with the a pillar. Again i don't think it's enough cry about.

IMG_20140105_030750_zps9ab5331a.jpg


 
standard fiberglass insulation is not suitable for areas exposed to moisture. You shouldn't have it in the car, especially in the doors. You'll be dealing with water retention, leading to rust...and possibly even worse- mold.

If you want to use a product like this, you need something that does not retain water and is mold resistant like Roxul safe n' sound. Roxul Safe'n'Sound

 
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