Buying components and need opinions

[drbrown 10+ year member]

I dont know what the higher end brands are other than maybe boston acoustics. Im not going for big spending here because Im not going to be pushing any kind of serious power. I found these on Ebay, yes I know ebay is the devil when it comes to electronics but everything I've ever bought I've had luck with. So I want some 6.5" & tweeters up front pushing around 50-70w. So on that note what do you guys think of these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-BOSTON-FS60-6-5-2-WAY-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-2005-S60_W0QQitemZ5826709051QQcategoryZ32819QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5826452878&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/DIAMOND-AUDIO-D361-6-5-2-Way-Component-Speakers-New_W0QQitemZ5826846237QQcategoryZ32819QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Any recommendations?

Click to read more...

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

If you are around that price range and if you could bump it up a lil bit, get the Rainbow SLCs. Solid set and can be had for $175 or so. Someone was selling their set for $150 on here a couple of weeks ago. I'd check that out.

 

[RbAudio_Geek 10+ year member]

I bought me some Rainbows Sound lines and i love them

 

[Ignatowski 5,000+ posts]

Crystal Mobil Sound

 

[bikejunkie223 10+ year member]

The diamonds would be a good choice, but you may or may not like the alum. dome tweeter (bright) I love Dls stuff, but the up6's are about $350- though they absolutely rock.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

http://cgi.ebay.com/Memphis-15-MCSYNC6-6-5-COMPONENT-SET-NEW-05-SEPERATES_W0QQitemZ5826705391QQcategoryZ32819QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[drbrown 10+ year member]

So the harsher solid materials like aluminum are more crisp and "bright" with tweeters? Thats what I would assume judging by the way material acts to vibrations but what do I know heh.

I did some searching and couldnt find anything from rainbow, did the go out of business?? The components from Crystal look nice but Ive never heard a word mentioned about them. Im starting to think its not so much about which components I buy, its more of which amp I buy. I hate being a NEWB! Sooo much to learn.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

where are the speakers going? are you going to deaden the the car? ........

 

[bikejunkie223 10+ year member]

Speakers absolutely matter. The best amp in the world will not make bad speakers good. typically hard dome tweeters are brighter than silk domes.

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

no, you need a solid amp that'll actually put out the power it rated at, but lots or amps do that, The speakers are very important, but you'd probably be satisfied with any of them.

The thing that matters more than anything is how you're going to install them... the aiming, where they a physically located and wether you sound deaden... these are probably the main things that will determine how they sound.

 

[drbrown 10+ year member]

To answer all the questions....

1) 6.5's will go in the door in the factory location (nowhere else to put them w/out glassing). And the tweets will be up higher around the mirror area in the door so I can get aimed more towards my ears.

2) As for sound deadening I dont know much, I should do a search for that. If it means stuffing the crap out of the doors and interior panels with insullation Im not going overbard. First reason being this car is more for SPEED than audio. BUT I have always loved music so Ive decided to compromise the weight a little to be able to enjoy my music for longer drives. I could do some mild stuffing if you think it would help.

3) I'm on a tight budget till after xmas so Im doing this slowly trying to plan what speakers to buy with what amps I can get ahold of. I currently have an ebay special SoundStorm 5-channel amp. 200x1(bridged) for the sub and 50x4 unbridged on the interiors. Right now the HU runs it all but that will change soon.

My expertise in installations is next to nothing other than the basic plug & play install. I have seen the small dynamat sheets you put down behind the actual speaker but I doubt that works that great. My car doesnt rattle YET but Im assuming we are talking about trapping the sound in the car. Its gonna be tough to get a probe to ever be air tight like that. You can push on the door windows and see air around them haha.

 

[bikejunkie223 10+ year member]

By sound deadening, all you need to do is apply sheets of dampener to the inside of the outer door skin, and then a large sheet to seal off the holes in the door, and dampen that metal. Then, make sure the speaker basket is sealed to the inside of the door panel with a spacer you build so all the sound is pumped into the cabin instead of getting lost between the speaker and door panel, and you are in good shape. Stuffing your doors with packing material and shit is retarded and unnecesary. The paint on goop isn't really required either, you just need some large sheets of dampener and a heat gun or very good hair drier.

 

[acousticguitar 10+ year member]

Rainbow SLC's--i think they're nice and lots of others agree. german, hand-made speakers. the mids are fantastic--very strong, warm. the speakers overall are very accurate, don't color the music at all. competitors in Europe have won SQ trophies using the SLC's even though its more of an entry-level speaker.

definitely not out of business. Alumapro took over as their America distributor. It was Arc Audio. Nice speakers, they're at http://www.rainbow-car-audio.de I believe. Speedsound sells the SLC sets for nearly $300.

anyways, I recommend those. just fyi, i may be selling a pair of lightly used SLCs in the near future since I got my hands on some other incredibly nice speakers at a price I couldn't refuse. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[drbrown 10+ year member]

By sound deadening, all you need to do is apply sheets of dampener to the inside of the outer door skin, and then a large sheet to seal off the holes in the door, and dampen that metal. Then, make sure the speaker basket is sealed to the inside of the door panel with a spacer you build so all the sound is pumped into the cabin instead of getting lost between the speaker and door panel, and you are in good shape. Stuffing your doors with packing material and shit is retarded and unnecesary. The paint on goop isn't really required either, you just need some large sheets of dampener and a heat gun or very good hair drier.

Let me make sure I understand this... your saying that inner metal wall that the speaker mounts to should be dampenned with a set of whatever brand stuff I get. Then use a wooden "ring" and mold it to the oem mounting location so the speaker is pushed closer to the door panel and better aimed to fill the cabin. Correct so far? That would make sense to me I guess.

I will have to do some searching to see what dampner material/sheets are the cheapest.

As for buying Rainbows, they sound nice enough Im sure. But $300 is out of my price range. I probably wont have the more expensive high power amps either so no point in underpowering them.

 

[bikejunkie223 10+ year member]

Let me make sure I understand this... your saying that inner metal wall that the speaker mounts to should be dampenned with a set of whatever brand stuff I get. Then use a wooden "ring" and mold it to the oem mounting location so the speaker is pushed closer to the door panel and better aimed to fill the cabin. Correct so far? That would make sense to me I guess.
I will have to do some searching to see what dampner material/sheets are the cheapest.

As for buying Rainbows, they sound nice enough Im sure. But $300 is out of my price range. I probably wont have the more expensive high power amps either so no point in underpowering them.

You have the idea, you can use 3m strip caulking on the basket (outside of the surround) to seal it to the door panel. The good news for high end components is that a lot of them don't need massive power to sound good. My Dls UP6's would be about $300 from Tplaya07 (I think) and will sound incredible in a deadened door with 50 true watts (that's what mine get, and they def. don't need more power)