Building first box what do i need

[EL-ORIGINAL 10+ year member]

Building first box what do i need to build a sturdy box, local shop wants to charge $400.00 for a box for my L7s

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[gimpster80 10+ year member]

go to cardiscountstereos.com and you can get a great box for a set of L7's for probably less than you can build one and looks cleaner too. if you are dead set on it you will need...

PARTICLE BOARD 3/4 or 5/8, if using 5/8 make sure that you use two pieces for the face sandwiched to add a little extra strength.

ADHESIVE BATHROOM CAULK cheap durable and lasts for years

1.25 inch drywall screws for 5/8 wood, 1.5inch screws for 3/4

WOODEN disposable Yardstick.

carpet of choice and spray 3m glue

SMall can of cheap acrylic white or black paint (suggest white)

Find the size need for L'7's and also decide you wish to use a port, If you are using an off brand amp or believe you don't have enough power put a 3 inch slot 12 inchs long in this box, make the slot is as tall as the sub or just few inchs taller.

Airspace for a 12 would probably be ok at 1.75 to 2.0 cuft ported, 1.5-1.75 sealed. for a 15 you'll need 1.75 to 2.5 cuft sealed and 2.0-3.0cuft ported, on the average you'll get nice deep bass with all of these sizes, better at the far end, I suggest that if your using a small amout of power go with a smaller range box and port it.

Build

cut all of you pieces and secure together with screws then line all seams with caulk and paint the entire inside of the box with paint, this will smooth the sound and turbulence plus ensures that you hit all the gaps with caulk.

drill a small hole at one inch on the yard stick the measure out from there half the distance of you mounting width of you speaker. drill another small hole, now use a screw threw the hole at one inch to mount the yard stick and the center of where you want the sub, then you can draw a perfect circle by putting a pencil in the other hole and running it around and around. bingo. cut and you've got a box...........................

you could have went to cardiscountstereos.com and bought one for 49 bucks plus shipping.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 

[dleccord 5,000+ posts]

a cheap sander, jig saw, dry walls, glues... what else am i missing???... drills

 

[amartin_72]

You dont use particle board. Particle board is worthless for boxes. MDF is the correct material.If you cut straight enough the wood glue should seal perfectly, never use bath caulk inbetween two pieces, but you might want to use it inside to seal the cracks if your cuts arent straight enough. Unless your going with a sealed box, more often than not a prefab ported box is not optimum. Using a smaller box when you have less power is dead wrong its the opposite. A larger enclosure will acheive the subs Xmax with less power. What amp are you running this with?

Sheet of 3/4 MDF

Pencils

Circular Saw or Table Saw

Jig Saw

Drill with Phillips or Square drive bits whichever screw type you use

7/64" or 1/8" Drill Bit

Liquid Nails or Wood Glue

Tape Measure

Contact Cement is better than Super 70/77 3M Adhesive for Carpeting

A chaulk line comes in handy

And a good box plan. Draw every peice out and make sure you know that the size/tuning is correct for your sub/power.

Use a piece of cardboard and poke two holes that are the radius of your cutout size and use that to mark your hole by placaing a screw or pencil in the middle and going around in a circle.

YOu must pre drill every single screw if you do not the MDF will split, if you do, it will come together perfectly. Make sure your always drilling parallell with the piece your drilling into so you dont have screws sticking out the sides!

 

[AlpineUser 10+ year member]

You dont use particle board. Particle board is worthless for boxes. MDF is the correct material.If you cut straight enough the wood glue should seal perfectly, never use bath caulk inbetween two pieces, but you might want to use it inside to seal the cracks if your cuts arent straight enough. Unless your going with a sealed box, more often than not a prefab ported box is not optimum. Using a smaller box when you have less power is dead wrong its the opposite. A larger enclosure will acheive the subs Xmax with less power. What amp are you running this with?
Sheet of 3/4 MDF

Pencils

Circular Saw or Table Saw

Jig Saw

Drill with Phillips or Square drive bits whichever screw type you use

7/64" or 1/8" Drill Bit

Liquid Nails or Wood Glue

Tape Measure

Contact Cement is better than Super 70/77 3M Adhesive for Carpeting

A chaulk line comes in handy

And a good box plan. Draw every peice out and make sure you know that the size/tuning is correct for your sub/power.

Use a piece of cardboard and poke two holes that are the radius of your cutout size and use that to mark your hole by placaing a screw or pencil in the middle and going around in a circle.

YOu must pre drill every single screw if you do not the MDF will split, if you do, it will come together perfectly. Make sure your always drilling parallell with the piece your drilling into so you dont have screws sticking out the sides!

amen....but u also will need a counter bit

 

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

go to cardiscountstereos.com and you can get a great box for a set of L7's for probably less than you can build one and looks cleaner too. if you are dead set on it you will need...
PARTICLE BOARD 3/4 or 5/8, if using 5/8 make sure that you use two pieces for the face sandwiched to add a little extra strength.

ADHESIVE BATHROOM CAULK cheap durable and lasts for years

1.25 inch drywall screws for 5/8 wood, 1.5inch screws for 3/4

WOODEN disposable Yardstick.

carpet of choice and spray 3m glue

SMall can of cheap acrylic white or black paint (suggest white)

Find the size need for L'7's and also decide you wish to use a port, If you are using an off brand amp or believe you don't have enough power put a 3 inch slot 12 inchs long in this box, make the slot is as tall as the sub or just few inchs taller.

Airspace for a 12 would probably be ok at 1.75 to 2.0 cuft ported, 1.5-1.75 sealed. for a 15 you'll need 1.75 to 2.5 cuft sealed and 2.0-3.0cuft ported, on the average you'll get nice deep bass with all of these sizes, better at the far end, I suggest that if your using a small amout of power go with a smaller range box and port it.

Build

cut all of you pieces and secure together with screws then line all seams with caulk and paint the entire inside of the box with paint, this will smooth the sound and turbulence plus ensures that you hit all the gaps with caulk.

drill a small hole at one inch on the yard stick the measure out from there half the distance of you mounting width of you speaker. drill another small hole, now use a screw threw the hole at one inch to mount the yard stick and the center of where you want the sub, then you can draw a perfect circle by putting a pencil in the other hole and running it around and around. bingo. cut and you've got a box...........................

you could have went to cardiscountstereos.com and bought one for 49 bucks plus shipping.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

pb and bathroom caulk? are you kidding?

 

[Blunt 10+ year member]

pb and bathroom caulk? are you kidding?

some people just aren't so bright

 

[spitfirees20 10+ year member]

go to cardiscountstereos.com and you can get a great box for a set of L7's for probably less than you can build one and looks cleaner too. if you are dead set on it you will need...
PARTICLE BOARD 3/4 or 5/8, if using 5/8 make sure that you use two pieces for the face sandwiched to add a little extra strength.

ADHESIVE BATHROOM CAULK cheap durable and lasts for years

1.25 inch drywall screws for 5/8 wood, 1.5inch screws for 3/4

WOODEN disposable Yardstick.

carpet of choice and spray 3m glue

SMall can of cheap acrylic white or black paint (suggest white)

Find the size need for L'7's and also decide you wish to use a port, If you are using an off brand amp or believe you don't have enough power put a 3 inch slot 12 inchs long in this box, make the slot is as tall as the sub or just few inchs taller.

Airspace for a 12 would probably be ok at 1.75 to 2.0 cuft ported, 1.5-1.75 sealed. for a 15 you'll need 1.75 to 2.5 cuft sealed and 2.0-3.0cuft ported, on the average you'll get nice deep bass with all of these sizes, better at the far end, I suggest that if your using a small amout of power go with a smaller range box and port it.

Build

cut all of you pieces and secure together with screws then line all seams with caulk and paint the entire inside of the box with paint, this will smooth the sound and turbulence plus ensures that you hit all the gaps with caulk.

drill a small hole at one inch on the yard stick the measure out from there half the distance of you mounting width of you speaker. drill another small hole, now use a screw threw the hole at one inch to mount the yard stick and the center of where you want the sub, then you can draw a perfect circle by putting a pencil in the other hole and running it around and around. bingo. cut and you've got a box...........................

you could have went to cardiscountstereos.com and bought one for 49 bucks plus shipping.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

I mean no offense to you at all, and I want to be as nice as possible, but alot of this information has been proved to be wrong.

 

[Pyro_By_Nature 5,000+ posts]

go to cardiscountstereos.com and you can get a great box for a set of L7's for probably less than you can build one and looks cleaner too. if you are dead set on it you will need...
PARTICLE BOARD 3/4 or 5/8, if using 5/8 make sure that you use two pieces for the face sandwiched to add a little extra strength.

ADHESIVE BATHROOM CAULK cheap durable and lasts for years

1.25 inch drywall screws for 5/8 wood, 1.5inch screws for 3/4

WOODEN disposable Yardstick.

carpet of choice and spray 3m glue

SMall can of cheap acrylic white or black paint (suggest white)

Find the size need for L'7's and also decide you wish to use a port, If you are using an off brand amp or believe you don't have enough power put a 3 inch slot 12 inchs long in this box, make the slot is as tall as the sub or just few inchs taller.

Airspace for a 12 would probably be ok at 1.75 to 2.0 cuft ported, 1.5-1.75 sealed. for a 15 you'll need 1.75 to 2.5 cuft sealed and 2.0-3.0cuft ported, on the average you'll get nice deep bass with all of these sizes, better at the far end, I suggest that if your using a small amout of power go with a smaller range box and port it.

Build

cut all of you pieces and secure together with screws then line all seams with caulk and paint the entire inside of the box with paint, this will smooth the sound and turbulence plus ensures that you hit all the gaps with caulk.

drill a small hole at one inch on the yard stick the measure out from there half the distance of you mounting width of you speaker. drill another small hole, now use a screw threw the hole at one inch to mount the yard stick and the center of where you want the sub, then you can draw a perfect circle by putting a pencil in the other hole and running it around and around. bingo. cut and you've got a box...........................

you could have went to cardiscountstereos.com and bought one for 49 bucks plus shipping.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

Ummmm, I'm sorry but 98% of that information is wrong and useless.A box should not last for "a few years", it should last pretty much forever.Up until last year I had a truck box I built yeeeeeeeears ago.Sometime in the early 90's.Still in great condition and sealed.That's not forever, but I had to get rid of it before I moved again.I could probably have had it another 12-14 years without problems.

Do you work for that website you mentioned or something?

 

[maldecido33 10+ year member]

wow, that is horrible information from gimpster

his paragraph about "porting" the box makes so little sense i can't even correct it

wow

 

[dleccord 5,000+ posts]

are cs bits expensive?? I just drill two times per hole, takes time i noe, but i dont own a cs bit. i drill the smaller diameter bit and then drill once more with a bigger bit

 

[Blunt 10+ year member]

nah i think i got mine for a couple bucks

 

[gimpster80 10+ year member]

well.. believe what you guys want buy i have installed for 6 years and also placed 2nd in nspl twice with everything i provided, plus used entirely off brand equipment. thank you but no thank you believe what you want. wait until you see land rover install on this site in a couple of weeks, you WILL eat your words.

 

[Decipha 10+ year member]

I've only been gone a few months... so much has changed

:shakes head:

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

PB:hilariou: i love that smiley