Budget 3-way Active amplifier(s)

[mr_naler]

I am trying to see what a 3-way active setup for my car utilizing the Pioneer DEH-80prs would cost/entail. I think the Dayton Audio Reference speakers(6", 3", and the tweeters) will do well for my application. The part I am getting stuck on is finding amplifiers that will give me good clean power that will fit my budget and allow me to set a HPF where I need to(around 150Hz if I keep the 8" sub I am putting in my console). I have considered the Rockford Punch line of amplifiers, but that would cost me a bit over $500. I was hoping to spend a bit less, though that isn't terrible. Would these amplifiers do what I need them to? Are there better options?

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[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

find an amp with a pas thru ,then you can use the decks crossovers to set the active system, the vfl 150.4 is $250 and is a pretty nice active capable amp

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

I have a nearly new and in perfect shape JL M6450. Does 75x6. Was going to use it also with an 80prs in the 3 way setup. Decided to sell the speakers and go a different route though. You can find them decently priced online elsewhere

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

I have a nearly new and in perfect shape JL M6450. Does 75x6. Was going to use it also with an 80prs in the 3 way setup. Decided to sell the speakers and go a different route though. You can find them decently priced online elsewhere

Good guy here !!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/bigwave.gif.16324171cad2db62cf4f16568b038478.gif

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

i was going to sell my pair of Xtant 403a amplifiers - 6 channels of ultra-clean power with crossovers that are fully flexible and capable of 3-way active as-is. I was asking $400 for the pair.

i am going to use them instead of sell them. but you can find them around.

 

[mr_naler]

Are you selling it? If so for how much?

If I went this route how would I best send signal to my subwoofer(s)?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

the sub(s) would have a different amp entirely. you typically use the front/high HU output for both mids and tweeters since you don't need T/A on tweeters. You just need an amp that can have crossover points (HPF and LPF) as high as 5kHz. you will need to manually adjust tweeter level left vs. right at the amp or just use balance (high frequencies are localized on intensity more than time arrival)

the rear/mid HU output would be dedicated for midbass. they need independent time alignment.

the sub HU output would be dedicated to the subwoofer(s).

i've tried many other variations with 3-way front + sub on a 6 channel HU and the above yields the best results with the least sacrifice.

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

i was going to sell my pair of Xtant 403a amplifiers - 6 channels of ultra-clean power with crossovers that are fully flexible and capable of 3-way active as-is. I was asking $400 for the pair.
i am going to use them instead of sell them. but you can find them around.

What?!?! $400 for that set is a great price.

Thanks Jim

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

What?!?! $400 for that set is a great price.
Thanks Jim

they were in the classifieds on here for a month with no takers. but the months before Christmas are a bad time to sell stuff.

i also picked up some old school Alpine amps that are active capable. MRV-F405 and MRV-F505

 

[Roland 10+ year member]

im trying to get how you plain to do this 3 way front stage with the 80PRS active? i can't figure how you would cross the 3"?

I have mine 2 ways front, and 2 way Subs by having one sub on the left 125hz - 50 hz( using EQ and amp sub sonic filter) and one on the right 50hz - LP.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

im trying to get how you plain to do this 3 way front stage with the 80PRS active? i can't figure how you would cross the 3"?
I have mine 2 ways front, and 2 way Subs by having one sub on the left 125hz - 50 hz( using EQ and amp sub sonic filter) and one on the right 50hz - LP.

For the OP I recommend either doing tweeter/mid/sub or plan to passively cross the tweeters and mids and run the woofers and sub active. The latter is a 4-way system, not 3-way. Another option is to buy an 8-channel DSP and leave all audio settings to flat on the head unit. The main thing is to keep all channels on either the head unit or the DSP, not a combination of the two. You want to maintain control of time alignment uniformly.

If you want this explained differently I'm available by phone or e-mail.

 

[mr_naler]

My plan was to run the subs and midbass woofers on the same channel using the crossovers on the amplifiers to send the proper frequencies to the speakers. (LP sub @~65Hz, woofer HP @~65). Though I guess this is not ideal. Especially considering that I will be running a sub(s) in the trunk as well as a single 6.5-8" in the cabin as well. I am at a loss. I did pick up a RF P400-4 today though.

 

[momax_powers 10+ year member]

the sub(s) would have a different amp entirely. you typically use the front/high HU output for both mids and tweeters since you don't need T/A on tweeters. You just need an amp that can have crossover points (HPF and LPF) as high as 5kHz. you will need to manually adjust tweeter level left vs. right at the amp or just use balance (high frequencies are localized on intensity more than time arrival)
the rear/mid HU output would be dedicated for midbass. they need independent time alignment.

the sub HU output would be dedicated to the subwoofer(s).

i've tried many other variations with 3-way front + sub on a 6 channel HU and the above yields the best results with the least sacrifice.

This

 

[Roland 10+ year member]

This

" the sub(s) would have a different amp entirely. you typically use the front/high HU output for both mids and tweeters since you don't need T/A on tweeters. You just need an amp that can have crossover points (HPF and LPF) as high as 5kHz. you will need to manually adjust tweeter level left vs. right at the amp or just use balance (high frequencies are localized on intensity more than time arrival)

 

the rear/mid HU output would be dedicated for midbass. they need independent time alignment.

 

the sub HU output would be dedicated to the subwoofer(s).

 

i've tried many other variations with 3-way front + sub on a 6 channel HU and the above yields the best results with the least sacrifice."

I never heard that tweeters not needing T/A? I'm guessing that at some higher frequencies it's not as critical, maybe? TA certainly seems important on my tweets crossed at 2500hz

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I never heard that tweeters not needing T/A? I'm guessing that at some higher frequencies it's not as critical, maybe? TA certainly seems important on my tweets crossed at 2500hz

above 3kHz the wavelengths are shorter than the distance between our ears - so we cannot resolve differences in phase. that is why tweeters don't need T/A in a 3-way system. 3-way systems use much higher crossover points (usually 4kHz or 5kHz and 24dB/oct). with 2-way systems, you usually have to use lower crossover points because the woofer starts beaming below 3kHz.

you also need to factor in the slope of the crossover - if you run a 4kHz crossover that is only 12dB/oct then you still have appreciable output below 3kHz and thus T/A may be desired.

it's system dependent - but in general, you can get by with level adjustment only in a 3-way system - either with balance or amp gain or crossover pads.