Buck Box Designs - Refreshed Thread

Damn Bobby, I don’t understand why you come on this thread to **** on people. I myself will never use MDF again because the dust is absolutely insane and the weight. In my area, I can’t find real Baltic Birch unless I travel over an hour away which is silly to me. I found a great 13 ply white wood that still looks great when stained and is lightweight. I have yet to find any void or delamination while building with it.

Agree with Slug as well. If you use the proper technique, you shouldn’t have any issues. Do you want us to start shitting on you for not building your own boxes?

You can bag on me all you want. It's not like it hasn't been done before. I did build my own box in my Black Bug. In fact I built out the whole backseat. Who did I **** on anyway? I never called anybody out by name. I've built more stuff out of wood then you can even imagine. I traded audio equipment that I didn't need to get my other boxes built. We should talk about this on another thread. This is Bucks thread.
 
You can bag on me all you want. It's not like it hasn't been done before. I did build my own box in my Black Bug. In fact I built out the whole backseat. Who did I **** on anyway? I never called anybody out by name. I've built more stuff out of wood then you can even imagine. I traded audio equipment that I didn't need to get my other boxes built. We should talk about this on another thread. This is Bucks thread.
It’s just how it came off. It sounded kinda snobbish the way you said it. You’re right about the birch, but a lot of people outside your profession don’t have your refined taste in wood. Without knowing that you were in construction a lot of people would’ve heard it that way.
 
I have a design that I'm working on. I've been waiting to design for these subs for a while. FYI, these subs are one of the fewer subs that are over 3000 watts and truly designed to work in a sealed chamber. They do need a ton of airspace, relative to other 15's and 18's, but not many woofers at this 3500w power level seem to be designed quite like this one is, as far as I know, for more car-audio oriented usage. These are subs that I trust to play extremely low in a 4th order bandpass, unlike some other woofers.

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4th order c-pillar bandpass wall for 2 SSA Evil 15's going in the back of a small SUV.

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This should make some loud noises. Tuned for fairly heavy low end-musical type playing.
 
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If you study how aero engineers design jets that go over the speed of sound, you can apply some of that knowledge to cross sectional area and how that affects the density of air when it hits solid surfaces. I apply some of my “flow of air” knowledge and structural geometry to eliminate high pressure resonance weakness on parts of the box shells from studying things like air flow during the transition of jets between right below the speed of sound into mach+ speed. You can visually learn how how density affects airspeeds and what problems that can possibly cause, and then you can see ways to make boxes stronger and flow better both internally and on the outside.

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Aircraft airflow is more DC like the AC like, if you will, but how air pressurizes is still all very similar. Planes can develop different resonance problems depending on what speed they’re going, because different parts of the planes vibrate differently at different speeds. Planes can vibrate themselves apart from resonance problems and lack of resonance-proof bracing.


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You can see how resonances can break an aircraft apart, and since we’re doing loud bass, we are literally creating massive pressures, and that massive resonance-inducing energy has to be tamed, or else everything will fall apart. That’s why we use wood for speaker enclosures; wood resonates less, because it has more random clumps of molecules than some things like forged metals do.
 
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I'm working on a box for a Can Am RTV. I have to design the box to withstand a certain height level of muddy off road water. It's a little bit of a challenge to make bass sound good not really in an RTV but ON an RTV.
 
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