Brutus brz - too much for my battery?

[Quick 10+ year member]

Hey guys it's been a while since I've been on here but I got tons of good advice and help last time so I came back.

I have the audioque hdc3 12" paired with the Hifonics Brutus BRZ 1000.1D (I googled my amp, but all I can see is 1200 now, but almost certain it isn't a 1200)

I did the big 3 on my v6 mustang and although my lights dimmed, it handled the amp pretty good. I have upgraded to a newer V8 mustang GT and was wondering.. Do you guys think I need to do the big 3 again? I can, but If I don't need to I'd rather just save the money/time. I'm wanting to get my bump in the trunk back here soon because I'm tired of those crappy stock speakers with hardly any bass

Battery was stock on the v6, and is stock on the v8 also.

Also, do you guys know where that chart is where you can tells ohms/wattage and then it shows you how much voltage it should show on a voltmeter? Someone showed it to me last time and I set it just a little under. They said that if I went over that voltage then I would start clipping my subwoofer and could blow it.. Definitely don't want that! I have a different head unit (Kenwood DDX 470) now and I'm sure subwoofer settings will be different so that's why I need the chart.

Like always, thanks for the help and I appreciate all of it!

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[Quick 10+ year member]

No1 has any ideas?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

You should at least add a large piece of wire from the - battery terminal to the frame. IMO that's most important. If your alternator is rated over 100A it wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade that as well with at least some quality copper #4 cable. Typical stock wire is barely adequate for just the stock accessories, much less trying to draw another 100A or so.

People sell short pieces of heavy cable on forums all the time, you can pick up a few feet of someone's scraps for pretty cheap.

 

[Quick 10+ year member]

You should at least add a large piece of wire from the - battery terminal to the frame. IMO that's most important. If your alternator is rated over 100A it wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade that as well with at least some quality copper #4 cable. Typical stock wire is barely adequate for just the stock accessories, much less trying to draw another 100A or so.
People sell short pieces of heavy cable on forums all the time, you can pick up a few feet of someone's scraps for pretty cheap.

Ok, so I need to run a 2 gauge from the negative on my battery to a ground on my chassis, right? I will have 2-4 gauge wire coming from the amp and stuff, that's also what will ground my amp to the chassis. So you would recommend the big 3 then? Last time I didn't put fuses in the 3 lines, I probably should due to in something goes haywire it will pop the fuse?

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

Hey guys it's been a while since I've been on here but I got tons of good advice and help last time so I came back.
I have the audioque hdc3 12" paired with the Hifonics Brutus BRZ 1000.1D (I googled my amp, but all I can see is 1200 now, but almost certain it isn't a 1200)

I did the big 3 on my v6 mustang and although my lights dimmed, it handled the amp pretty good. I have upgraded to a newer V8 mustang GT and was wondering.. Do you guys think I need to do the big 3 again? I can, but If I don't need to I'd rather just save the money/time. I'm wanting to get my bump in the trunk back here soon because I'm tired of those crappy stock speakers with hardly any bass

Battery was stock on the v6, and is stock on the v8 also.

Also, do you guys know where that chart is where you can tells ohms/wattage and then it shows you how much voltage it should show on a voltmeter? Someone showed it to me last time and I set it just a little under. They said that if I went over that voltage then I would start clipping my subwoofer and could blow it.. Definitely don't want that! I have a different head unit (Kenwood DDX 470) now and I'm sure subwoofer settings will be different so that's why I need the chart.

Like always, thanks for the help and I appreciate all of it!

honestly with that amp i think you would be ok, i would do the big 3 and add a 2nd big battery in the back yo help out then just test voltage while playing and watch your voltage

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Ok, so I need to run a 2 gauge from the negative on my battery to a ground on my chassis, right? I will have 2-4 gauge wire coming from the amp and stuff, that's also what will ground my amp to the chassis. So you would recommend the big 3 then? Last time I didn't put fuses in the 3 lines, I probably should due to in something goes haywire it will pop the fuse?

Yes, you want to add some large wire between battery - and chassis. Amp should be grounded to the chassis in a well prepared spot as close as possible to the amp.

The other connections people normally upgrade are the alternator to the + on the battery and the case of the alternator to the frame. I'd say this is probably optional if you're working on stock alternator since what's there is likely adequate.