Box questions?

THXdts
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
Alright, here is my current box. I didn't draw the MDF because I didn't build the box and don't know how it is lined up. It is 2.5 cu. ft. @ 32 hz. I have a soundspliter RL-p 12. My first idea was to just get a 12" L7, and put it in place of that. But that wont work because the cutout for the circle, well some of it would be sticking out if you cut a square. Then my second idea is to just replace the front of the enclosure, cut a new hole, and replace the top, if I get a differnt amp. Next idea was to just extend the walls up, left and ride side, and get a 15" l7, but then that would mess up the port? I think this idea will work, just start over, but build off the base of the hump. That is there bcause that is how the floor is in my extended cab truck. What do you think would be a good idea? I will upload the file, but cant find a place that accepts .skp.

 
you can add another baffle on front but a box is built to a subs specifications.. switching out subs in a box that was made for the original sub is not always the smartest move... your best bet is to rebuild with the kicker's specs..

 
I could build off of it thought right? Like just keep the bottom, the part of the hump that is allready built? Because I can not go any wider or and deeper. Just taller.

 
I'm pretty sure that the L7's cutout is 11" long. I'm 100% positive that the RL-p's cutout is also 11". That means you can still cut out a square and there would not be part of the circle sticking out.

2.5 @ 32 should be pretty nice for an L7 as well. If you wanted, you could always add another front baffle if the square cutout doesn't work.

 
I'm pretty sure that the L7's cutout is 11" long. I'm 100% positive that the RL-p's cutout is also 11". That means you can still cut out a square and there would not be part of the circle sticking out.
2.5 @ 32 should be pretty nice for an L7 as well. If you wanted, you could always add another front baffle if the square cutout doesn't work.
What L7, a 12? And do you mean if it doesn't fit, just take the old front baffle out, and put on a new one?

 
What L7, a 12? And do you mean if it doesn't fit, just take the old front baffle out, and put on a new one?
Just glue a new baffle on top. I really don't think you will need to do this though. The cutout for the 12L7 is a little bit bigger than 11" so you should be able to just cut out the new square where the RL-p's cutout is.

4e063pd.jpg


 
Just glue a new baffle on top. I really don't think you will need to do this though. The cutout for the 12L7 is a little bit bigger than 11" so you should be able to just cut out the new square where the RL-p's cutout is.
4e063pd.jpg
Cool, thanks. What would the advantage be of a 15 compared to a 12?

 
Do you have a fiberglass bottom on the box or something? If its just an MDF box then there is no since in try to "re-build" it, just make a new fockin box. If you want to throw an l7 12 in it then just make a new baffle for it and screw it on over it.

 
Do you have a fiberglass bottom on the box or something? If its just an MDF box then there is no since in try to "re-build" it, just make a new fockin box. If you want to throw an l7 12 in it then just make a new baffle for it and screw it on over it.
Why would I rebuild the bottom when it will be the exact same? It is the most I can go in lengh and depth.

 
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THXdts

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