box building question

[splwj47 10+ year member]

how far apart should the screws be from each other ?

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[goingdef 10+ year member]

I don't use screws(they will vibrate loose) just tight bond2 and clamps and have yet to have an issue, remember if you do screw dont forget to pre-drill/countersink every screw or you will split the mdf!

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

Heres the last one I built and it never gave me a problem with a T2 15" and about 1500w to it and not one screw!

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x81/animalnut1310/P5310059.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x81/animalnut1310/P5310060.jpg

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

I usually do around 3-4" between each screw. I've never had a screw snap or vibrate, nor seen anyone whose box did that.

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

I've broke all 8 screws holding my sub into the box.

had the mdf split apart and snap the screws holding the top on.

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

I've broke all 8 screws holding my sub into the box. had the mdf split apart and snap the screws holding the top on.

What sub? If it's a powerful sub you should consider using T-Nut's to help secure it

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

shocker sig I sold them

next I'm going with shallow mount jl's I don't think I'll need much to keep them under control lmao

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

where do u get that titebond II stuff i could not find it anywhere

 

[Moble Enclosurs 10+ year member]

where do u get that titebond II stuff i could not find it anywhere

Lowes. They have all three. I,II,and III. I agree with not needing screws, but to help with clamping, they can be useful. If you are to keep them in, here is the deal........make them 4inches apart minimum and after pre-drill, put glue in the holes so when you screw them in, they seal better over time.this should help those who have problems with them vibrating out.

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

I won't be using screws anymore, I'll be using brads and proper joints instead of butt joints should be much more solid that way. All of the joints I have ever seen fail the glue joint is intact the wood is what gives out.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

8-10" across larger spans, like 4ft+. I normally use three screws on most other stuff that's like 12-18" tall, one in the middle and 2" in from each corner. I think I'm going to start using a staple gun though, much quicker.

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

Doesn't matter what joint you use if the wood is going to fail......get better wood or better bracing.

 

[Z1NONLY 10+ year member]

I usually just put a screw at edges and the midpoint then keep "splitting" the space between the screws until I'm in the ballpark of 6" spacing. (And I use wood glue prior to screws...install screws while glue is still wet)

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

yes it does, you use the right joint you double your surface area and make it multiple directions so the wood will not fail. I used mdf on the box that failed, now I use baltic birch and probably going to use bamboo this next one.

 

[Moble Enclosurs 10+ year member]

8-10" across larger spans, like 4ft+. I normally use three screws on most other stuff that's like 12-18" tall, one in the middle and 2" in from each corner. I think I'm going to start using a staple gun though, much quicker.

Great idea! I used to use an air compressor with nails in the beginning. Worked very well.