Box build questions...

[Gearstix 10+ year member]

I will eventually be building a box for my two Mach 5 SPL-12s in a blowthrough.

I've never built a box before. I'm not sure what thickness of MDF I will use, or if I will use MDF. It'll be 3/4" or 1" I'm guessing.

I know at Rona I couldn't get 1" MDF, only 3/4" and it was about $38 a sheet I think.

So, keeping the fact in mind that I've never built a box, what would be the most straightforward, and bulletproof ways to build one? I see some of you guys do not use screws at all.

I'm not sure if I want to spend the time pre-drilling every hole. Can I use self tapping screws?

My box will be double baffle I'm pretty sure.

What do you guys use to seal the box up inside? Silicone? Glue?

What about covering the box? My box will be in a blowthrough but I have a fiberglass camper shell to cover my bed. I'm liking the Fleckstone stuff, is there any preperations you need to do to MDF to apply it?

Do you have to spray on some sort of sealer to the MDF when the box is done?

I haven't decided on any box plans yet.

I have to pull the bed off and re-align it, and I don't have amps/batteries yet, so it won't be going in my truck for a while. But If I figure out the cut out diemensions, I could build the box.

I'm also looking for any information that will help me.

My dad has some tools I can use to make the box.

• Router (not sure of any details)
  
• Table Saw
  
• Compound Mitre Saw w/laser
  
• Jig Saw
  
• Have some clamps
  
• Belt sanders I think
  
• Multiple power drills
  
• Measuring tools, squares, etc.
  

Is there any other tools I will need?

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[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

i've seen boxes built with less tools than that....

 

[xseveredveganx 10+ year member]

IMO, I'd use 3/4" MDF and double up on the baffle. Predrill and coutersink EVERY hole. Period. It makes it easier in the end. I personally use Titebond3, but any of Titebond's products work well. I know some people have been having luck with the newer Elmer's wood glue. Screws aren't necessary... I've heard of people using a few ratchet clamps and heat guns to quick cure the glue. I've never done this, I like to feel a little secure with the screws.

Now for the exterior, that's completely up to you. I hate carpeting and I like the looks of bedliner. Being in your bed, even with a camper shell, I'd probably resin the heck out of the outside, let cure, rough up with some 80grit, and have somone bedline it. That way it should be pretty much weather proof.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[Gearstix 10+ year member]

IMO, I'd use 3/4" MDF and double up on the baffle. Predrill and coutersink EVERY hole. Period. It makes it easier in the end. I personally use Titebond3, but any of Titebond's products work well. I know some people have been having luck with the newer Elmer's wood glue. Screws aren't necessary... I've heard of people using a few ratchet clamps and heat guns to quick cure the glue. I've never done this, I like to feel a little secure with the screws.
Now for the exterior, that's completely up to you. I hate carpeting and I like the looks of bedliner. Being in your bed, even with a camper shell, I'd probably resin the heck out of the outside, let cure, rough up with some 80grit, and have somone bedline it. That way it should be pretty much weather proof.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Thanks man.

I forgot about resining. Do you actually fiberglass the inside of the box, or just coat the crap out of it with just the resin?

I miight be doing a bandpass. I dunno. Gotta figure out how much space I got to work with first, and diemensions.

 

[xseveredveganx 10+ year member]

You can resin the inside. I know SPL guys do because it increases air flow and it can help cut down on air leaks at joints. If I was going to be doing a blow through, I'd resin the outside of the box a bit and then bedline it. Just as a double precaution to keep moisture out. Not 100% if it will keep it all out, but I'm sure it would help.

If you decide that you want to go bandpass, I'd probably hit up PWK Designs. But that's just me. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[Gearstix 10+ year member]

You can resin the inside. I know SPL guys do because it increases air flow and it can help cut down on air leaks at joints. If I was going to be doing a blow through, I'd resin the outside of the box a bit and then bedline it. Just as a double precaution to keep moisture out. Not 100% if it will keep it all out, but I'm sure it would help. If you decide that you want to go bandpass, I'd probably hit up PWK Designs. But that's just me. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Pete is a smart guy, knows his stuff.

I might get Gmonk to design me bandpass.. I dunno. We'll see.

Gotta get off my *** and re align the bed, and order some acordian boot.

However, if I go to paint the truck I'll have to cut the gasket out and buy some more, so it kinda doesn't make sense... Maybe I should go with 1 12" SPL-12 in the cab?

 

[xseveredveganx 10+ year member]

You could run one of the 12's in the cab, but do you have buckets with a console, or a bench? If you have a bench, are you plannin on building an enclosure behind the bench seat? I'm over 6' and I had a single sealed JL 10W0 in my old S-10. Driving was kind of a chore. Then again, the truck had almost no suspension and a leaky windshield seal.

I'd say just keep saving your $$$ and do it all right the first time. The accordian boot doesn't need to be cut when you get the truck painted. It's kind of a pinch weldment that squeezes the piece of metal on both sides, then the accordian, then the same pinch weldment.

Check it: http://www.trucknvans.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=ED5382RL

 

[Gearstix 10+ year member]

You could run one of the 12's in the cab, but do you have buckets with a console, or a bench? If you have a bench, are you plannin on building an enclosure behind the bench seat? I'm over 6' and I had a single sealed JL 10W0 in my old S-10. Driving was kind of a chore. Then again, the truck had almost no suspension and a leaky windshield seal. I'd say just keep saving your $$$ and do it all right the first time. The accordian boot doesn't need to be cut when you get the truck painted. It's kind of a pinch weldment that squeezes the piece of metal on both sides, then the accordian, then the same pinch weldment.

Check it: http://www.trucknvans.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=ED5382RL

I had a bench but will have buckets. I don't really wanna loose any leg room, so thats why I figured a blowthrough would be the best way.

If I understand what your saying, you can remove the accordian boot without damaging it? is it reusable?