box broke wtf

LOL, I use wood glue, then finishing nails, lots of them, then I caulk the inside corners with cheap latex caulk. Never had a box come apart and the finish nails look nice too. Just got to be careful not to dent the MDF with the hammer or you will have a bunch of dents.

I would say the BESTEST way to build a box would be to use woodglue and counter sunk screws with predrilled holes, then caulk all of the inside corners. Then you could go from there with things like fiberglass to stop the MDF from letting your air seep through, but only if you are serious about box building. I'm no expert, just sharing my way of doing it and my opinion in this wonderful little thread that went several pages just arguing about whether or not you can "just use wood glue, nothing else" or not.... LOL

 
I either dado the joints or when I'm feeling lazy I will break out the biscuits. Glue it up, clamp it together and leave it for a day. I will use screws to make a customer happy, but most of the time I use brads. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Going fastener-less works, just takes time...and clamps //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

bib1rj6.jpg


 
Going fastener-less works, just takes time...and clamps //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
bib1rj6.jpg
****, that guy even took the time to use scraps of mdf to clamp so it didn't mark up the wood. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Correct, no need for screws. The screws just hold the pieces of wood together while the woodglue bonds the two pieces. After glue dries and bonds the wood, you can removes the screws if you want.
Guess you don't run too much power.

 
laugh out fvcking loud @ the donkey that says I squeezed out all the glue between the joints when I screwed the panel on. I predill and counter sink my holes and use a 12V cordless to drive em in, if thats to much I guess I ****

Im sure there was glue there, was surfaces are obviously clean and well cut on the table saw. The glued joints just simply gave up first when I gave the box some blows. Just citing my real world situation because I was curious what would happen. You can talk all the jumbo you want, but the joint failed. And it was Titebond if it matters

I now stopped paying the extra couple bucks for titebond, and just bought a gallon of regular carpenters wood glue from Rona

I dont have the patients to clamp a box together anyways, I need my ish built FAST, and Id rather not risk it coming apart on 3000+

 
When I started out building boxes (I ****** at it), I used drywall screws. The boxes started to get better, but still used the screws. I now use #12 wood screws. While I don't claim to be a pro, I am pretty good at them now and each one built is better than the one before it. If I had a compressor and a brad nailer, I would give that a shot, but I don't. Therefore, I still use the screws. After a while, you get pretty good with the countersink. I don't understand why some of the peeps seem to be pissed over the idea of using them, or not using them. If you build the box and it doesn't blow apart, who the f*** cares what you are holding it together with. I do not carpet my boxes and will gladly admit that not having the screws showing looks better. However, if I was worried about that, I would put carpet on them. If what you do works, fine. I am sure that the boxes built with just glue and bracing are just as durable as the ones with screws. I used resin on the inside of my last one and it REALLY tightened it up. I swear I can hear a difference. Adds a great deal of strength to it as well.

 
When I started out building boxes (I ****** at it), I used drywall screws. The boxes started to get better, but still used the screws. I now use #12 wood screws. While I don't claim to be a pro, I am pretty good at them now and each one built is better than the one before it. If I had a compressor and a brad nailer, I would give that a shot, but I don't. Therefore, I still use the screws. After a while, you get pretty good with the countersink. I don't understand why some of the peeps seem to be pissed over the idea of using them, or not using them. If you build the box and it doesn't blow apart, who the f*** cares what you are holding it together with. I do not carpet my boxes and will gladly admit that not having the screws showing looks better. However, if I was worried about that, I would put carpet on them. If what you do works, fine. I am sure that the boxes built with just glue and bracing are just as durable as the ones with screws. I used resin on the inside of my last one and it REALLY tightened it up. I swear I can hear a difference. Adds a great deal of strength to it as well.
Good post.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 
sooooo much bad information is contained in this thread ......baby jesus is sad now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
That is my favorite Jesus!

Also I agree with the post about Bobby's daily misadventures in car audio. I don't think you were meant for this hobby.

I still have dibbs on your sub when that help me thread shows up. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
Yeah i have the worst luck on car audio

The box is def. broken. I put my hand on the back of the box when im playing the sub and it rattles back and forth. But it only really does that on the area behind the sub. It isnt like that further down the box where the port is. Maybe it has something to do with the box only being 12'' deep and the sub being pretty deep itself?

 
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