BIG problem: screws on JL 500/1 amp stripped, can't replace speaker wire

I doubt you will notice an audible difference between your speaker wire, and the speaker wire that is currently 'stuck' in the amp's terminals.

So if you dont want to pay someone to fix it, then leave it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Also, if you can tap one of those small Torx bits inside it it works slightly better than a screwdriver, there is more metal to metal contact. My buddy has a 250/1 and I have to do that every time, probably taken that amp in and out 6 or 7 times.

All in all, you want to find a slightly larger object than the stripped out interior of the amp screw, and force it in., and twist out the screw. It should not take much unless the threads you cannot see are boogered.

When you get done, take a small file and file a groove into the screw so you can use a traditional small flathead screwdriver to remove the screw //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

If none of this works, take a drill bit hats ever so slightly smaller than the amp screw, and eliminate the screw altogther. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
i dont know about you, but i like to be thorough and detail oriented when i ask for help on these boards, because otherwise people ask questions about your question, instead of answering.
a better question is this one: did u just take the time to respond to a thread without trying to help or bring anything to the table?

also, if you consider 7 sentences an essay, i am going to take a guess and say that your level of sophistication (or lack thereof) probably prevented you from finishing 9th grade.

if ur not gonna help, shut the **** up. if ur gonna bust balls, u should probably work on it at home first. try practicing in front of the mirror by yourself. that was weak material, toolbag.

and yes, i just wrote an essay about what a worthless member of these boards you are.
Pwned!

 
The Torx driver sounds like the best solution.. Whatever you do, it's not gonna be pretty.. These amps are tough though and are built with quality, so don't be too afraid to get in there and put some pressure on the top of that screw.. It's unlikey that you are going to mess something up.. I also agree that you are not going to notice any difference with the wire, but I would want it fixed just for my peace of mind..

Also, fix your sig.. Pioneer does not make the CDA-9856........

 

you like that right? he had a pt in certain ways, i did go off on a rant, but not being detailed invites questions, not answers. i have come a really long way in terms of knowledge and my ability to do the work on my car myself, but i still have yet to be helpful to someone else (except when i told some kid he was full of sh*t and that as a lawyer, they cant take ur car away for something like playing music too loud, since its a due process violation).

one day, i hope i can actually help someone with their problem, but until then, i go on the powerlifting boards and give out advice to improve my karma for all the problems that i put on peoples shoulders on these boards.

 
i had the same problem befor, i used a small flat head screw driver
i am about to try it, i have about 12 diff size flatheads, one of them has gotta work. its just that the plastic casing that houses the 4 terminals seems to wiggle a little bit to begin with so...

 
i had a go-kart with a briggs and stratton 5 hp engine when i was a little kid. my dad made me take it apart and put it back together a few times before he ever let me drive it. i remember him saying something about knowledge of small engine repair being an integral part of italian-american culture (lol) so if i could handle that task, i can handle this. i appreciate everyones advice, lets see what i can do before i waste any more of anyone's time

 
Also, if you can tap one of those small Torx bits inside it it works slightly better than a screwdriver, there is more metal to metal contact. My buddy has a 250/1 and I have to do that every time, probably taken that amp in and out 6 or 7 times.
All in all, you want to find a slightly larger object than the stripped out interior of the amp screw, and force it in., and twist out the screw. It should not take much unless the threads you cannot see are boogered.

When you get done, take a small file and file a groove into the screw so you can use a traditional small flathead screwdriver to remove the screw //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

If none of this works, take a drill bit hats ever so slightly smaller than the amp screw, and eliminate the screw altogther. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
**** bro, i think you covered all the bases there. good lookin out

 
if i remember correctly from my buddies 500/1 that is a small allen head screw, recessed in right? i would try to take the back of the amp off and see if you can get in from the side to get the screw out that way. but i would just solder now wire onto what is already on there for the quick easy solution until you figure a better way out

 
Before any of that, try a ROBERTSON screw driver (the ones with the square heads) I have a bolt on my 500/1 that won't work with the allen keys anymore, so I used a robertson and it works perfect.

 
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