BIG problem: screws on JL 500/1 amp stripped, can't replace speaker wire

[frankiebones 10+ year member]

i got this amp from my buddy so lets get something straight, i didnt strip the bolts myself. the amp has two (-) terminals, and two (+) terminals for the speaker wire to run out to either one or two subs. BOTH the (+) terminals are stripped, which is particularly problematic since the wires that are inserted and forever stuck (hopefully not) in the amp are 16 gauge tsunami speaker wire. this is only a problem bc i think the sq would benefit if i was able to successfully swap the wire out with the heavy duty tsunami braided speaker cable i purchased.

i am guessing that i had better just be careful and take good care of the wire that is already attached, since i have no alternative to using it.

i may be a few months away from being admitted to the bar and becoming a lawyer in NY, but i have always been very good with my hands, so before u ask me if i am using the correct size torque wrench, i assure u i am. its too bad that out of the four bolts, the two that are stripped are both (+).

i know that i cannot PERSONALLY get the bolts out, but at the same time, i gotta figure that i am not the first person to deal with this problem with this amp, or any amp for that matter. i would appreciate it very much if u guys could suggest any possible solutions, whether it be something i could do myself or if it is possible to have the bolts removed by a professional.

however, i guess a more important question is if the diff in sq makes it worth it to fix the problem, if the only solution involves sending it back to JL or having a professional scrwerdriver master get them out.

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[johnson 10+ year member]

Did you just write a whole essay about stripped screw terminals?

 

[frankiebones 10+ year member]

Did you just write a whole essay about stripped screw terminals?

i dont know about you, but i like to be thorough and detail oriented when i ask for help on these boards, because otherwise people ask questions about your question, instead of answering.

a better question is this one: did u just take the time to respond to a thread without trying to help or bring anything to the table?

also, if you consider 7 sentences an essay, i am going to take a guess and say that your level of sophistication (or lack thereof) probably prevented you from finishing 9th grade.

if ur not gonna help, shut the **** up. if ur gonna bust balls, u should probably work on it at home first. try practicing in front of the mirror by yourself. that was weak material, toolbag.

and yes, i just wrote an essay about what a worthless member of these boards you are.

 

[Qoob 10+ year member]

If your having difficulty removing a stripped screw, may I suggest you leave it alone before you cause any more SERIOUS damage and drop it off at a repair shop. I'm sure you have plenty of places to choose from in NY.

 

[CBFryman2 5,000+ posts]

take a screwdriver and jam it into the terminal and back it out or use a broken bolt removeal kit (be very careful).

or learn how to solder.

 

[Bolognablake 10+ year member]

I'm not familiar with the 500/1.

Does it have screws, like Philips head, or does it use Allen an wrench. If it uses actual bolts, I've had a lot of success with Craftsman's bolt-outs.

 

[Lil_KB 10+ year member]

I usually take a thin flathead file or screwdriver and try to tap a flathead groove into the screw with a hammer. It works for screws/bolts I strip out when working on my atv/truck so I don't see why it wouldn't work here as long as you are careful and patient.

Also, if it is the type of screw connection I'm thinking about, like these here:

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Phoenix_Gold_M44/outside1.jpg

Then if you have a steady hand you could use a mini-dremel tool with a circular cutting blade to cut a flathead groove.

That's the only advice I have on the subject.

 

[frankiebones 10+ year member]

If your having difficulty removing a stripped screw, may I suggest you leave it alone before you cause any more SERIOUS damage and drop it off at a repair shop. I'm sure you have plenty of places to choose from in NY.

i appreciate the advice, as soon as i saw it was stripped, i left it alone. i have a soldering iron but i have never used it for this sort of application. in terms of using a 'broken bolt removal kit' to fix it myself, the risk that i might mess up and damage the amp is not one i am willing to take just to save the amount of $$ it would cost to have it done professionally.

i appreciate u guys pointing me in the right direction, bc i have no idea what a broken bolt removal kit contains, and that simple fact tells me i should sit this one out and let a pro handle it.

 

[Rattlebrain 10+ year member]

Can you get a pic of it?

 

[frankiebones 10+ year member]

I usually take a thin flathead file or screwdriver and try to tap a flathead groove into the screw with a hammer. It works for screws/bolts I strip out when working on my atv/truck so I don't see why it wouldn't work here as long as you are careful and patient.
Also, if it is the type of screw connection I'm thinking about, like these here:

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Phoenix_Gold_M44/outside1.jpg

Then if you have a steady hand you could use a mini-dremel tool with a circular cutting blade to cut a flathead groove.

That's the only advice I have on the subject.

appreciate the advice but the idea of taking a hammer anywhere near my JL amp isnt realistic. the terminals are housed in a rectangular piece of plastic that makes it difficult to use sheer force to get it out.

the installer who originally mated the wire to the amp that my boy jay gave me after an elderly lady ran a stop sign and totalled his M3 (freeing up the amp for me though, lol) was aweful. not only did he strip the screws, he also used 10 gauge wire for the power and ground lines on a beautiful JL amp that was pushing a 10W7.

 

[Lil_KB 10+ year member]

appreciate the advice but the idea of taking a hammer anywhere near my JL amp isnt realistic. the terminals are housed in a rectangular piece of plastic that makes it difficult to use sheer force to get it out.
the installer who originally mated the wire to the amp that my boy jay gave me after an elderly lady ran a stop sign and totalled his M3 (freeing up the amp for me though, lol) was aweful. not only did he strip the screws, he also used 10 gauge wire for the power and ground lines on a beautiful JL amp that was pushing a 10W7.

Yea i figured it wouldn't be doable but I was basing my advice off the type of screw-connections shown in the pic in my post. I figured they'd be out of the way in an untouchable position.

 

[frankiebones 10+ year member]

Can you get a pic of it?

i can try, the screw isnt stripped so bad that its been completely rounded out. by that i mean that you can still see the hexagonal shape of the slot on top. however, when u compare it to the two terminals that arent stripped, it looks bad.

 

[Rattlebrain 10+ year member]

Would something like this work?

 

[frankiebones 10+ year member]

Would something like this work?

the link didnt lead to a product, but instead said your session had timed out. however, its the thought that counts, and i thank you again bro.

 

[Rattlebrain 10+ year member]