Big 3 with 4 Gauge

MitchZ
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I don't have the money to buy 10 more feet of 0 gauge, how sufficient would running my 4 gauge be as Big 3 instead of stock?

I'm (going to) be running a Kicker Zx2500, Ma Audio 4x100rms speaker amp. (On a distro block), eventually gonna run another strand of 8 or 4 gauge for the MA.

I will also be having a second battery in the trunk, possibly a Hc2400.

Stock Alternator is either 90A or 110A.

Knu Flex 0 gauge to the back.

I don't really see the point of running 0 gauge as Big 3 because I will NEVER be upgrading to a H/O alternator, and only gonna be putting the 90A or 110A of current the alternator can supply.

4 Gauge can hold more than that....

 
I'm using 4 gauge for my Big 3, but am still seeing just a tad of dimming lights, but not as drastic as before. At full blast, my battery drops to about 12.5v, but will regain right back to 13.7-14.3 as soon as I lower it.

My stock alt is only around 70 amps for so, and the battery on my Civic is tiny, and the CCA is only 525 I beleive.

 
I have the Big 3 done in 4 gauge, and it seemed to do fine with my old Directed 1100D, made things a little better, but still had pretty sufficient voltage drops with a 130A alternator. I assume it was just the amp pulling more amperage than it was suppose to though. All in all, 4 gauge is alright, but if you have the patience save up, and do it with 0 gauge. You might also want to think about getting a new alternator to support the ZX2500. IIRC, these require more Amperage than your alternator can provide, even if you were running just the amp on it. Roughly 170A-200A draws.

 
I have the Big 3 done in 4 gauge, and it seemed to do fine with my old Directed 1100D, made things a little better, but still had pretty sufficient voltage drops with a 130A alternator. I assume it was just the amp pulling more amperage than it was suppose to though. All in all, 4 gauge is alright, but if you have the patience save up, and do it with 0 gauge. You might also want to think about getting a new alternator to support the ZX2500. IIRC, these require more Amperage than your alternator can provide, even if you were running just the amp on it. Roughly 170A-200A draws.
I understand that, I won't be playing my music at the full 2500RMS all the time, so I can give the batteries time to charge and such. I will probably get a 5 farad cap as well.

Does the amp only get the rated amperage of the alternator?

Or do the batteries charge and put out the __ amps for the period of time that the battery holds it charge?

 
I understand that, I won't be playing my music at the full 2500RMS all the time, so I can give the batteries time to charge and such. I will probably get a 5 farad cap as well.

Does the amp only get the rated amperage of the alternator?

Or do the batteries charge and put out the __ amps for the period of time that the battery holds it charge?
Caps are pretty much useless. A kinetik HC600 has as much power as 100 caps will be.

The only reason I bought one was because it had a volt gauge, but I forgot my amp that I bought has LCD volt readouts, as well as my Knu Konceptz distro.

 
I'm using 4 gauge for my Big 3, but am still seeing just a tad of dimming lights, but not as drastic as before. At full blast, my battery drops to about 12.5v, but will regain right back to 13.7-14.3 as soon as I lower it.
My stock alt is only around 70 amps for so, and the battery on my Civic is tiny, and the CCA is only 525 I beleive.
How many watts are you running?

 
4 ga in short runs is fine. The problem is assuming that since its OK for a 4ft run it's OK for a 15ft run. That's where you run into problems.
If you have enough 4ga, you can double up the runs for extra insurance.
4g will still be better than the 8g or less stock crap.

 
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MitchZ

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