Big 3 location help

[loudlittlefvkus 10+ year member]

So i've read countless forms, and even found a forum for my exact car. but the pictures on it were taken down.. and i cant find the wires, or where to connect them to for the life of me. I'm pretty bad with engines so that doesnt help.. if anyone could help me out with either pictures or a really dumbed down explanation that would be awesome.

i drive a 2003 Ford focus zx5 2.0L ztech.

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[maylar 10+ year member]

Dood... it ain't rocket science. Every car is a bit different and the chances that someone here has the same exact model as you is kinda slim. You gotta be able to identify some basic items... like the battery, the alternator, and the engine block. If you can't do that much then you're out of your league and should let someone else do it.

 

[loudlittlefvkus 10+ year member]

i know where the alternator is, i just cant find where the wires connect to it. the battery negative is pretty straight forward. and i cant find the engine block ground for the life of me. thats why im here, im still learning how to do all this, im only 17 and never really been around engines too much

 

[fasfocus00 5,000+ posts]

there is no engine block ground. the alt wire goes to the starter than on to the battery as a continuous run. the alt connection is on the underside of the alt. you'll have to make an engine ground

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

Post a picture of you're alternator

 

[fasfocus00 5,000+ posts]

Post a picture of you're alternator

Used Ford Focus Alternator 00 04 Zetec Engine Works Overcharges Rebuildable Core | eBay

this is the alt. it mounts so the post is aimed downward. OP will have to remove accessory belt and 1 alt mounting bolt and loosen the other to rotate the alt to break the plastic to fit a ring terminal on the post or trim his ring terminal

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

all engine blocks are grounded. it's how the circuit is completed. it doesn't have to be accessible so finding it may be a challenge if you don't start removing things.

i usually remove the plastic cover panels, intake hosing, the battery, and the battery tray to reveal places to ground and connect wires. not a lot of effort but you need to understand how to do it - maybe start with a Haynes manual. you need access to tools and a socket/wrench set (SAE and Metric).

the most important are the two grounds - a ground from battery to chassis and a ground from the engine block (or transmission housing) to the chassis. don't use bolts that are for suspension. don't use bolts that are for brackets. usually you can find empty threaded bolt holes to use.

the alt positive is more advanced and requires a fuse holder at the battery.

you will need wire, ring terminals, zip ties, and i recommend split loom to make it look like factory.

 

[™Caveman 10+ year member]

I used a free bolt tap on top of my engine for engine to chasis.

 

[loudlittlefvkus 10+ year member]

I got under my car to look at the post on the alternator and found it, measure out how much wire I need. And I think my hands and arms are small enough to just do it from underneath. Haven't looked for the engine ground, gonna look for that in a minute. Thanks for the help, and sorry for the kinda late reply, work and stuff got n the way

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

Before you actually start making changes, be sure to disconnect the negative cable from the battery. That way if you short anything to ground with a wrench or whatnot you won't get hurt.

It's OK to double up on existing wires instead of replacing them. For instance if you can add another wire to the battery negative post it's OK to run a new wire from there to the alternator's mounting bracket, which is what the engine block connection is all about. You don't have to remove the old wires if you can add additional ones instead.

 

[loudlittlefvkus 10+ year member]

thanks, thats the plan. and i know at least that much, haha. i just havent messed with or learned too much about upgrading my electrical system. i found all the wires, measured them out, ordering everything from Knukoncepts, and putting it in as soon as i can.

i know knukoncepts has great products, but im looking at 70$ for everything. anyone know of some other good brands that might be a little cheaper? i want to stick to OFC wire, or should i just go with knu anyways?

 

[loudlittlefvkus 10+ year member]

nevermind, theres a sticky on wires. but one more question ive been meaning to ask! how do you reccomend securing the chassis grounds? i used to always have a problem with my ground, coming loose and all. ive tried self-tapping screws with lock washers and everything. im not sure if ill be able to get to the back of the bolt to bolt it on with nut and everything, i havent looked where ill ground them yet. and what kind of screws should i use for the ground? brass is a good conductor right?

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

As far as the engine block ground goes, you can simply forget that one and run a wire from a bolt on the alternator case to the ground. I did the same on my car and it worked just fine.

 

[loudlittlefvkus 10+ year member]

yeah, i didnt know until now that the alternator is grounded directly to the engine block, and the engine block to chassis wire is, pretty much, the alternator ground. so i found a place for that wire

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

I have always had good luck using self-tapping screws for grounds. You need to drill the pilot hole just the right diameter so the screw has something to bite into otherwise it'll be loose. The screw should require a ratchet to drive it in. Tight but not stripped... takes experience to judge that. If you can get to both sides, obviously a bolt and nut is much better.

I also use a lock washer (internal or external tooth star washers are better for this than split-locks). The lock washer goes between the terminal and the vehicle body, not under the screw head. Ideally you want to secure the wire with a tie-wrap to something so the wire doesn't move and make the connection loose over time. Follow up with paint or dielectric grease to keep the connection from oxidizing.

Materials don't matter much here - I use steel hardware and plated copper terminals.