Big 3 Done, Voltage Drops Still to 9 and Cuts Out

Nexson
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
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Hey Guys Jmanpc has been on this one with me and we can't figure it out.

I am currently experiencing some bad voltage drops, as low as 9 volts when the bass hits, keep in mind this is when the volume is at 85% and when the bass hits hard.

I am running the 500/1 and 300/4 and 2 w3v3 10''s woofers, not really a power ******* system. Anyhow I have the gains set correct at 17 on the 300/4 and the gain on the 500/1 set below 31.v6 (the required setting for my application) and I am still having drops to 9 volts.

Some more things to know.

I have 4guage power wire running from stock battery to distribution block with a ANL 150 mini fuse, where it is then split into 2 8awg for both amps.

I then have the big 3 wired correctly and cleanly with 1/0. With 300a ANL Fuse

I also have redone both grounds for the amps and still have the problems.

Some voltage numbers I acquired from my dmm

-Voltage at battery before and after 4 gauge fuse at battery 14.1

-Voltage at distribution block right before amps and voltage at actual amps with radio turned off : 13.9

-Voltage at distribution block right before amps and voltage at actual amps with radio turned on: : 12.1

-Voltage at 85% volume and heavy bass: 9 and thats where it cuts out.

The car is an 05 accord with a denso stock alt rated at 105 I believe, stock battery, but the battery is 14.1 at the terminals.

What may it be?

Thanks!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

P.S.

Lights still DIM

ok guys here's the video!, sorry for the mess of wires, anyhow you can see the voltage drops, it went to 10, when it is at full tilt it drops to 9. You can hear the music from the car going in and out, music remains playing from the stock tweetrs the car came with since they are still wired, but everything amped goes out which is basically all the speakers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZVcC8NkBn0

 
You are losing 2 volts from the front to the back with the radio on but without music playing? That is horrible... sounds like you need to swap that 4 awg for some 0 awg wire. That really is a ton of voltage drop for nothing going on.

 
just a/c, I left the a/c on because I figure it will always be on, since I have it on down here in FL. but yes loosing that amount of volts

 
You and I were thinking the exact same thing, Jacob, but I forgot to add the bit about upgrading the cabling.

It also leads me to believe there is an issue with his fuseholder and/or fusing possibly.

Losing 2 whole volts with no draw on the lead is un-freggin'-real.

 
just a/c, I left the a/c on because I figure it will always be on, since I have it on down here in FL. but yes loosing that amount of volts
Where exactly are you grounded? Many places in the back of a Honda may not be connected well, electrically, to the main unibody -- some braces and metal panels are "glued" together and there isn't a good connection to the main body.

If that isn't it... your power wire is simply too small or possibly a defective fuse.

 
i JUS DID A RE-CHECK, AND THIS TIME IT TURNED OUT BETTER 14.1 AT THE BATTERy, and 13.9 at the amp

really weird, but the drop to 9 still persist

 
You and I were thinking the exact same thing, Jacob, but I forgot to add the bit about upgrading the cabling.
It also leads me to believe there is an issue with his fuseholder and/or fusing possibly.

Losing 2 whole volts with no draw on the lead is un-freggin'-real.
Right, I actually went back and did it again and I got a better reading, 13.9 now.

 
Where exactly are you grounded? Many places in the back of a Honda may not be connected well, electrically, to the main unibody -- some braces and metal panels are "glued" together and there isn't a good connection to the main body.
If that isn't it... your power wire is simply too small or possibly a defective fuse.
Right that is why i changed my grounds to the actual chassis of the car, like the bare metal, that the other pieces connect too.

Now when you say my fuse may be defective, how would that be possible if I am still getting 14.1 reading before and after the fuse, are you talking about the fuse at the 4guage?

 
just for reference i have an 05 accord v6.

My setup:

DA D61000.1 @ 1000rms @ 1ohm

Orion hp2300 @ 4ohm 50rmsx2

Carnetix p1900 power supply (carputer) 140watt

Also have radar detector and a few other toys.

1/0 throughout w/ 300a anl

Big 3 w/ 1/0 and 300a anl

Headlights dont ever dim. Interior lights dim slightly on full tilt.

i get 14.3v when car is idle with radio on @ low vol. Voltage does not drop below 12.2v on full tilt.

 
hm So I see that your pushing more watts and not dropping below 12, but you have the 1/0 power wire and me the 4 guage, is this enough to make a valid difference from 9 to a steady 12...

 
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Nexson

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