Big 3 Dissapointment

This means i need a bigger alt.??


Well, i have a run of 1ga. for power and ground and then both go into distribution blocks because the amps only accept 4ga.

As for the battery idea, i would like to know which one is more crucial in my circumstance, the alt. or battery. It is possible i get a new bigger battery and still have problems because the stock alt. cannot keep up.... Thanks for the ideas though hahaha/
i have said it before and i will say it again big 3 is overrated and way more expensive then upgrading the alty

 
Here is the order I would do, but this is my Opinion...

Bigger/Better battery under hood

Battery in rear

Big 3

Alty
Thanks, I think i am going to grab a kinetic hc1400 for under the hood, and if that still isnt good enough i guess ill go with an HO alt.

I just kind of think its ridiculous to have to upgrade all that stuff for a steady current. I may just wind up turning my gains down or something haha.

 
i have said it before and i will say it again big 3 is overrated and way more expensive then upgrading the alty
how is the big 3 more expensive than an alt? lmfao!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
over rated at times. But people can't expect alot though when there maxing their alternator. If your not then yeah it's a good idea. But I say know your amps draw before you do either. People expect it to fix everythig. I say throw a battery. I do 1500rms with no dimming at all with my hc800. Batterys first, big 3, then alternator.

 
Big 3 worked well for me. I run a GP3k at 1ohm (well, 1.3ish) and at full tilt with a/c I drop to 12.7

I haven't tried metering it for a few hours though, so this is probably just my decent battery setup maintaining voltage for a while //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

I say try a deep cycle or two, if not, hit up an alt.

 
Big 3 worked well for me. I run a GP3k at 1ohm (well, 1.3ish) and at full tilt with a/c I drop to 12.7
I haven't tried metering it for a few hours though, so this is probably just my decent battery setup maintaining voltage for a while //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

I say try a deep cycle or two, if not, hit up an alt.
I dont know how many watts that amp does, but 12.7 bothers me. That is what i am trying to stray from. I think i will get a kinetik hc1400 for my birthday. Its only $180 from newegg.com so ill try that.

 
I dont know how many watts that amp does, but 12.7 bothers me. That is what i am trying to stray from. I think i will get a kinetik hc1400 for my birthday. Its only $180 from newegg.com so ill try that.
The amp is rated at 3kw @ 1ohm @ 13.8 volts, but has been benched to put out more.

And 12.7 works fine for me, as long as I stay over 12 I'm good. Like I said, that 12.7 was with A/C on, full tilt on the system, and headlights. I never run all 3 full at the same time. 90% of the time I drive with no a/c and windows down, so yeah. 12.7 is just the absolute lowest.

 
The amp is rated at 3kw @ 1ohm @ 13.8 volts, but has been benched to put out more.
And 12.7 works fine for me, as long as I stay over 12 I'm good. Like I said, that 12.7 was with A/C on, full tilt on the system, and headlights. I never run all 3 full at the same time. 90% of the time I drive with no a/c and windows down, so yeah. 12.7 is just the absolute lowest.
Well after driving around, i am judging by my HU's volt meter so i am sure its off, but i have noticed a difference now. The BIG thing is when i come to a stop. My RPMs are a little lower than when driving, lights on, and the brake lights seem to be the breaking point. Once i step on the brakes the voltage drops pretty drastically from like 13.7 to 12.5/12.7. When i am driving i can run full tilt with lights on AC on and not drop below 13.7. I am satisfied, but i still plan on getting a better battery under the hood.

 
Well after driving around, i am judging by my HU's volt meter so i am sure its off, but i have noticed a difference now. The BIG thing is when i come to a stop. My RPMs are a little lower than when driving, lights on, and the brake lights seem to be the breaking point. Once i step on the brakes the voltage drops pretty drastically from like 13.7 to 12.5/12.7. When i am driving i can run full tilt with lights on AC on and not drop below 13.7. I am satisfied, but i still plan on getting a better battery under the hood.
thats because stock alts put out shit at idle.

 
thats because stock alts put out shit at idle.
Really? I've read and been told a stock alt actually puts out more then most HO alts at idle (depending on the stock alt of course).

But idk shit about alts, so carry on //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Really? I've read and been told a stock alt actually puts out more then most HO alts at idle (depending on the stock alt of course).
But idk shit about alts, so carry on //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
i guess i should not of said it like that, but stock alt PROBABLY put out shit at idle. but i may have it backwards, but i figured if your stock all is like 100 amps, and you get like a 250 Amp Alt, and they claim 100 amps at idle, so i figured a stock alt that is rated at 100 is not going to put out much at idle. but i may be wrong.

 
why do the battery before an HO alt?? if ur alt cant push out the amps needed for your system how does the HC battery help?

and my 130 amp alt has 10g wiring. i think i might see some improvement =P

 
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