big 3 and integration

Hello, Im going to do the big 3 in zero gauge in my 98' cherokee. When I do this, what would be the best battery terminals to use and what would be the best way to connect all the factory electronics to the battery?
Stinger makes a good post terminal. Also, my fav is the copper terminals for the alt and grounds that are pinched shut towards the ring. You can hold it with a pair of plyers over a blow torch and solder the 0ga to the terminal.

 
you mean to just squeeze the stock in with the zero?
yupp. thats what everyone else does because on some cars you cant take out the stock wiring without throwing a code. it will all fit

 

---------- Post added at 02:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:57 PM ----------

 

as long as it is all connected properly it will work.

 
yupp. thats what everyone else does because on some cars you cant take out the stock wiring without throwing a code. it will all fit 

---------- Post added at 02:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:57 PM ----------

 

as long as it is all connected properly it will work.
well, how should I integrate the stock wiring if Im soldering my wiring?

 
well, how should I integrate the stock wiring if Im soldering my wiring?
how are you soldering it, most people just solder the ring terminals on the wire to prevent them from coming loose and it also creates a better connection but your not soldering the wire to anything just a terminal.

 
how are you soldering it, most people just solder the ring terminals on the wire to prevent them from coming loose and it also creates a better connection but your not soldering the wire to anything just a terminal.
Im talking just soldering the wire to a ring terminal

 
It's not necessary to upgrade the battery terminals unless you need them(ie: cannot fit anything else on), that being said it wouldn't hurt, but as long as you remove the battery terminals that you have on now and scrub them(with a fine wire brush) as well as all the other main terminal leads leading to and from your battery, including the battery posts you should be good. Just a couple recommendations, make sure you get a 250-300 watt fuse on your positive to alternator (by the way I would also finewire brush the start post on the alternator as well as the hex nut/and YES leave the original factory positive to on your alternator on) because you don't want your battery to blow on start. One last thing besides wire brushing all your grounds on either end, is secure your 0 gauge from touching anything that gets too hot such as radiator hoses, engine and the like.

 
either one of these are really good im using them and got them for the big three, plus you can change the insert sizes of the konfused one to fit the stock wires in it!

Positive Battery Terminal

Positive Battery Terminal

, make sure you get a 250-300 watt fuse on your positive to alternator
its amps not watts and it would all depend on the output of your alternator on what fuse size you want, and you dont have to fuse the wire from your alt to battery, but it is recommended.

 
One last thing. If I were anyone upgrading to ''The Big 3'' I would also grind the surface layer of the ring terminals down(YES on both sides). Manufactures gloss coat them to make them shine, but what you want is to expose as much bare metal to metal contact for the purpose of conducting maximum power flow through the 0g wire. Century Drill and Tool 76431 Coarse Radial Wire Brush, 3-Inch
on those terminals would I be able to put the stocking electronics in the four gauge opening?

 
I think you meant to quote me, yes you probably can, measure your wire thickness though and see what gauge it is closest to. Those knu terminals will fit almost anything. And you can get insert adapters for the one with 3 1/0 gauge inserts to fit 4 and 8 gauge.

 
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