Best sq only sub. not sql

Someone had better menton Eclipse titanium or aluminum drivers here. Just because you cannot buy them on the net does not mean that they are not an amazing driver. For the person who wants to research their investment and wants a really good sq driver, head into the authorized dealer and find out about these subs. It is really amazing on how you can go from forum to forum and in some the only ones that are asked about are the ones that are found online or cater to this type of sales marketing. Is a RE XXX a JL W7, no it is not, they do entirely different tasks, as does a Titanium Eclipse. If you want to spend your hard earned dollars, look outside of the box as well. The box and amp is also going to do with the performance of that sub in the vehicle, there are many other factors to consider as well.
No one mentioned Premier TS-W12PRS either.

Adam,

 
-------->BumpinDoug

How do you like your A series 15's? I said I would go with the Magnum 15's, but on paper it looks like the A series can displace more air. And since they both supposedly sound good, and cost about the same, I might as well get the ones that can get louder.

Tell me a little about'em.

 
dont listen to some of these guys.apparently they are uneducated about quality subs.bramha,ed,re.all of those subs are bullshit and are made for fools...just get the w7 or vega vmax.thats it .new thread plz

 
Hey go with some Jl W0 or W3v2
Um no. Not even close. And as far as the A series goes, ive never heard a 15" Magnum but supposedly its supposed to have the same SQ as the 12", and the 12" sounded incredible, better than my 15's probably.

 
Um no. Not even close. And as far as the A series goes, ive never heard a 15" Magnum but supposedly its supposed to have the same SQ as the 12", and the 12" sounded incredible, better than my 15's probably.
Let me get this right. The 12" Magnum was LOUDER than both your A Series 15's, or SOUNDED BETTER?

 
Well, i can try... I'm guessing you've heard each different type, right? A small box sealed twelve will hit very crisply, and has the ability to hit the entire spectrum of bass frequencies w/o any trouble. The size of the cone is what determines the tone. A 15 will hit very powerfully, but have trouble recreating higher bass tones, essentially making everthing sound deeper than it is. A 10 on the other hand, will have trouble making deeper tones, so they will sound higher pitched. Ports will make a sub hit deeper, but not give an accurate crisp hit. They make bass sound softer, smoother, and deeper. sealed box 12s make the most accurate music reproduction. I'm not an expert on this stuff, I'm just basing this on my observations, and pretty much everyone else I have talked to has agreed. Maybe someone can fill in the actual technical reasons.
Nope, you're wrong. What you just described is, unfortunately, a very prevalent myth within the car audio world.

dont listen to some of these guys.apparently they are uneducated about quality subs.bramha,ed,re.all of those subs are bullshit and are made for fools...just get the w7 or vega vmax.thats it .new thread plz
You have no concept of what you're talking about. You're as ignorant as you are a poor writer.

 
Hmmm. Just get any sub. Don't spend a lot. And a lot of subs will sound very good when not powered to their max. You stated the loudness is not a big factor... well, then almost any sub played at lower volumes will sound excellent.

You can also go with almost any size subwoofer you want, just install it correctly. With all the new technology 8's and 10's can hit pretty low tones. 15's can sound great with a correct install.

Someone earlier said, "60% install, 40% drivers" I will have to disagree. It is much closer to, "80% install, 20% drivers".

And someone else mentioned how klipsch and other companies use really high end drivers. Hmm.. do some research, that's all I'm saying for now. You can build your own home theater speakers and have the same SQ as those major brands and by using better drivers you can get much, much louder, as long as you know how to design and build a box correctly, and how to crossover and process the signal correctly, and place the speakers in an optimum location. But wait, that would require research, time, effort... why waste all that when you can waste money instead, right?

Just trying to make this forum awesome, one post at a time.

Peace.

T.J.

 
Oh yeah, when I said any sub, I meant any sub. Install it correctly, and then go from there. I wouldn't try to buy "the best" first. Because the cheapest might sound "good enough" for your tastes, and then I just saved you a bunch of money. However, if "the cheapest" doesn't sound good enough. Work your way up from there until something does.

Again, it's all in the install.

 
Hmmm. Just get any sub. Don't spend a lot. And a lot of subs will sound very good when not powered to their max. You stated the loudness is not a big factor... well, then almost any sub played at lower volumes will sound excellent.
That's a bit general. There are subs out there that will not accurately reproduce music no matter how you install them. But I do agree that you can get a lot in the way of SQ without spending a lot of money if you are not concerned with it getting really loud. I still love the sound of my 10W1 that I have had for I think it's 12 years now. It isn't loud (it's only 1 10 with an Xmax of .25") but it is musical. It sounds great and plays flat (in car response) to subaudible frequencies. It was $99 new, and just a few months ago anyway, you could still get a JL dealer to order tham for you.

You can also go with almost any size subwoofer you want, just install it correctly. With all the new technology 8's and 10's can hit pretty low tones. 15's can sound great with a correct install.
With inexpensive drivers, 8's and 10's generally will sound better than 15's. Cheap, flimsy cones on 15's just can't be stiff enough to sound good. The sheer size of the cone makes it unable to support its own weight and the cone breaks up and the sound quality is out the window. 8's and 10's fare much better. Move up to slightly higher quality drivers and the difference in quality becomes less and less until you get to the super subs. The smaller new subs are overbuilt. They are basically scaled down large subs and the cones are much stiffer than they need to be. In the cheap lines of subs, the large subs are scaled up small drivers and the scaling doesn't work well that way.

Someone earlier said, "60% install, 40% drivers" I will have to disagree. It is much closer to, "80% install, 20% drivers".
To the point that the drivers are adequate, a much bigger difference will be made by spending time and effort on the install than spending more money on "better" subs, so, I would agree with that.

Just trying to make this forum awesome, one post at a time.
That makes two of us.

 
Yeah, let me rephrase that.. when I said ANY SUB, I meant to exclude funky pups //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I love internet knowledge! I have two 15s and they are slow and muddy. But my 2 12s mounted behind them, they are so articulate, they just push the 15s the same............

Um.................

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

Caz

10+ year member
Member
Thread starter
Caz
Joined
Location
ca
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
50
Views
4,515
Last reply date
Last reply from
tobz
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top