Best Speakers for warm natural sound but do not sound like crap with mp3's

[emilimo701 10+ year member]

but if you're dead set on different speakers... try out the rockford fosgate power components, they have a slight smile response curve, similar to what the "loud" button does on your head unit, and will take 100w RMS for the amp you're going to get

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

but if you're dead set on different speakers... try out the rockford fosgate power components, they have a slight smile response curve, similar to what the "loud" button does on your head unit, and will take 100w RMS for the amp you're going to get

You've got to be kidding. This dude is running a set of high end Focals and you're recommending RF Power Series? Dude, I run T152S'. They're alright if you can find them on the cheap, but they're no comparison to the speakers the OP is claiming to own...

 

[emilimo701 10+ year member]

You've got to be kidding. This dude is running a set of high end Focals and you're recommending RF Power Series? Dude, I run T152S'. They're alright if you can find them on the cheap, but they're no comparison to the speakers the OP is claiming to own...

lol well he seems wanting to downgrade... i mean he was considering polk db comps. would probably get some cash back from the focals, money he could put towards an amp, or beer, or whatever

 

[flightz71 10+ year member]

you turn your bass and treble all the way up? seriously?you turn the loudness setting on? seriously?

tweeters are too harsh? have you tried turning the attenuation down?

midbass isn't' punchy? are your doors deadened?

sounds good with 192 kbps mp3s? seriously?

you want mids that play down to 50 hz? seriously?

you like to hear the bass coming from behind you? seriously?

troll? or just a epic fail thread?

lol now I feel kind of retarded... but

Yes... not all the way up... but +5 bass and +3 treble

Loudness - yes... w/o it I can't hear 1/2 the bass and treble notes with the volume down

Tweeters - -6dB, mounted in the factory harman kardon location next to door handle

midbass - doors dynamatted, wooden baffles made to create a solid mount, rear sealed from front

mp3s - they sound good in my 4runner with pos jbl factory speakers... so i can't see why not. Again I was told high end speakers make mp3s sound like shit

Playing low - Yes... the factory harman kardon's can play down to 50 and thump hard. I was perfectly content with the system but they cannot play loud without blowing/distorting. Speakers in my 4runner play low too... no sub in the system but I can hear everything I want to hear. Ok maybe it's not bass I want to hear? Something closer to around 125hz. Pretty much I want to hear the hum type of bass... but all I'm getting is the pound you get from a sub. With the crossovers switched to 70-80Hz... sounds even worse... all bass from from rear of car and not blending in the front (fronts sound weak as shit)

Finally... NO! I want to hear/feel bass from the front stage of the car... like in every other **** car I've been in... not the annoying boomy pound from the trunk.

It's not just me that is crazy... all my buddies attest to the fact that even though my system can play louder with no distortion, more crystal clear... I have lost loads of bass/midbass (again the HUM type of bass!... not that ghetto e40/nelly pounding kind) as well as some midrange (makes sense since i went from a factory 3-way to a 2-way with the midrange in the doors instead of up high now)

 

[emilimo701 10+ year member]

install a subwoofer. if done properly, it really won't sound like it's coming from the back of your car. there is no magical set of components that go significantly lower than the rest

before i put in my sub, my alpine type R's put out decent midbass that would shake my mirrors. and according to the specs, type X's go even lower. maybe try those out. but if you're really picky about your bass, you'll need a dedicated subwoofer. there aren't many ways around it

 

[emilimo701 10+ year member]

...

 

[Bumpin' Goalie 10+ year member]

OP wants 80-120 it seems to me.

RE XXX comps. A LOT of linear movement fora 6.5 component. Sound good, get lower than many.

Also, many cars stock setups have the "bass" sounding as if it's from the rears. Sometimes it's intentional. Other times, it's not.

I personally only run fronts. No rears, no rear fill, nothing. Focals up front. SSA Dcons in the back. Blends like a dream crossed ~85hz, sounds great, no real directional problems.

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

the reason you hear more bass from a stock set of speakers is they play full range versus just playing mids and highs. Aftermarket speakers are made to play with subs not against them by playing above their frequency to combine to make a full sound rather than cancellation

 

[Bumpin' Goalie 10+ year member]

the reason you here more bass from a stock set of speakers is they play full range versus just playing mids and highs. Aftermarket speakers are made to play with subs not against them by playing above their frequency to combine to make a full sound rather than cancellation

^This. Also why they can distort easy. Trying to play 30hz while playing everything else. Not fun for the stock equipment.

 

[Bumpin' Goalie 10+ year member]

Dbl Post. Site lag is killing me.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

How are your Focals being amplified? What amp specifically? If the tweeters are too harsh for you, there are attenuation buttons on the crossovers that can cut the tweeter level down -1 to -7db, at least my K2P's did 4-5 years ago.

Get a solid 200 watts running to each side, doors deadened, and you'll probably see a difference and not need to use the loudness and other boosting features that just add distortion at higher volumes.

 

[Bumpin' Goalie 10+ year member]

How are your Focals being amplified? What amp specifically? If the tweeters are too harsh for you, there are attenuation buttons on the crossovers that can cut the tweeter level down -1 to -7db, at least my K2P's did 4-5 years ago.
Get a solid 200 watts running to each side, doors deadened, and you'll probably see a difference and not need to use the loudness and other boosting features that just add distortion at higher volumes.

OP mentioned earlier that doors are deadened, with wooden baffles being used. Tweeters are at -6db. Loudness is on. Etc.

Good advise nonetheless for all readers.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

OP mentioned earlier that doors are deadened' date=' with wooden baffles being used. Tweeters are at -6db. Loudness is on. Etc.
Good advise nonetheless for all readers.[/quote']

Haha, I must have missed all of that. If I were him I'd bridge that 450/4 and have plenty of headroom for each side.

OP: burn the Focal Tools disc over at diymobileaudio.com(just search for it, you'll find it), play the sample tones they give you, and simply use your EQ on your radio to only cut the frequencies that seem too loud to you. An easy way is to start off with the lowest one, and spend maybe a second on each one as you're going from track to track. That way you can easily tell where you have unwanted peaks in your response curve. Correct those peaks and you'll be able to turn your music louder without it seeming harsh, and because of that hopefully have a more pleasing experience at high volumes. I did this and it worked magic on helping me get rid of a couple nuisances.

 

[emilimo701 10+ year member]

the reason you hear more bass from a stock set of speakers is they play full range versus just playing mids and highs. Aftermarket speakers are made to play with subs not against them by playing above their frequency to combine to make a full sound rather than cancellation

components canceling out subwoofer getting up to 10x (or more) the power? seriously?

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

components canceling out subwoofer getting up to 10x (or more) the power? seriously?

I can tell by messing with crossover settings with my setup.