Best budget or used amp for one kicker l7 15

I really thaught that at first but I messed with random settings on them alot trying to get more out of them and couldn't. Went with standard 80hz low pass and tried a few different things on the subsonic and they never got better. Now the new Kenwood I tried would hit if I cranked the bass boost on the amp up but I really didn't wanna have to do that

 
It's in a ported box it's pretty **** big but I can't tell you exact specs because I baught it in the box. The guy demoed it with a old Kenwood 1000 watt amp and it hit hard and for whatever reason it does hit ok on my old beat down 600 watt "max" Kenwood amp. It's in a 95 f150 extended cab and the enclosure takes up most of my extended cab area. 0 gauge power and ground wires also big 3 upgrade ND alternator is upgraded from the ford 95amp to the ford 135 amp. 

---------- Post added at 02:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:28 AM ----------

 

I put a meter on it to make sure it was at 2 ohms aswell
Its the vehicle man, Play with your box orientation, face it towards a solid wall either to the driver/passenger side, to the rear, up fire or forward fire. That makes a huge difference. I'm betting the guy had it facing towards the trunk/hatch of his vehicle. However, i'm gonna need pics of your setup to make sure your box is not complete junk. How is your head unit settings like? I installed a kenwood kac 9105 to my buddy's vehicle and that setup was slamming very well at 4 ohm impedance on a single type R 12 with only 1/3 gain no bass boost, stock head unit on a PAC line out convertor. Cant imagine the newer model ******* that bad.

Head unit setting is important too. Whats your max volume and what volume do you have it at?

 
Settings are bassicaly flat on the head unit slight boost on the eq but nothing substantial. I'm comparing these to an old Kenwood 729s that is running it right now. And it hits real good on that. Which is way less power sub in same place same vehicle wiring everything except the amps themselves is the same. The 729s isn't really a 2 ohm amp or I'd just leave it on that

 
Settings are bassicaly flat on the head unit slight boost on the eq but nothing substantial. I'm comparing these to an old Kenwood 729s that is running it right now. And it hits real good on that. Which is way less power sub in same place same vehicle wiring everything except the amps themselves is the same. The 729s isn't really a 2 ohm amp or I'd just leave it on that
Again, play with the box orientation. Some trucks have a difficult time keeping pressure inside the cabin. Also need to know whats the max volume and what volume do you normally listen too. Please answer all the other questions i asked in the earlier post so we know exactly what is wrong with your setup.

the volume levels are important because your head unit's pre-out signal is very weak. Only 2 volts pre-out which means your sub level needs to be maxed and your volume needs to be around 80-90% of max to achieve proper pre-out signal.

 
Ok. Can't get a pic till later but I'll post one. A quick description it's bassically firing forward between my front seats the box is almost as wide as the rear bench behind the seats

 
Ok. Can't get a pic till later but I'll post one. A quick description it's bassically firing forward between my front seats the box is almost as wide as the rear bench behind the seats
try flipping the box backwards facing the rear wall with 4-6 inches of clearance if possible and see if that made a difference. Most of the times Trucks have the port fire to the side with their custom boxes.

 
So backing up a but. Ur saying my head unit is the problem?
no, I said the head unit setting might be wrong. Yeah that box position could very well be the problem man, The port has nothing to load(reflect) off of. Need to have the port facing a solid wall like the rear wall or the side doors. Bass is basically escaping through the windows with no pressure built inside the car.

 
Ok. Ya it's facing right at the roof right now. Honestly I'd probably need a different box to change it. Still leaves me kinda confused why it hits ok with this old 729s in that spot but not with any other amp I've tried

 
That newer kenwood should be pushing that sub decently. At least as good as the older kenwood if not better. I say try the newer kenwood again and maybe just let your crossover go wide open. Maybe the crossover pot is not calibrated at all with the little diagram. What was the gain on the older amp set to? Sorry may have missed it in the thread. In a straight swap you should at the very least be in the ballpark as the older amp...You're only use one run of speaker wires correct? Have you tried different terminals on the newer kenwood. Newer kenwoods arent great, but it should at least doing a bit of work. Although keep in mind you may have to hike gain up a bit since your running lower volume levels.

 
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