Best amp for 3 X15s wired at 1.3 ohms?


Kyle.gardner00

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I have a 400a mech, 80ah lithium and a Salt 4 at the moment but definitely not enough. The only full bridge I've had was the SFB8000, it fried itself but I'm open to other full bridge options as well as korean boards under $1800... no Taramps please ūüėĀ
 

Buck

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Get the 8k. I've got a long time box customer of mine who I've done crazy stuff for. He's gonna put 2 of the salt 8k's on 4 18's, or so it's planned as of now. From what I've seen, those amps do work. He's very happy with his salt 8k. He's got it on a pair of 3000w or so woofers.
 
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Popwarhomie

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That's a tough one. I'm not a huge fan of massive mono blocks. My personal opinion is they tend to be less reliable and more expensive to repair. I myself would do 3 smaller amps gain matched.

3 SIA3500s
3 SQ Q2200s
3 CAB 2200s.
 

Buck

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That's a tough one. I'm not a huge fan of massive mono blocks. My personal opinion is they tend to be less reliable and more expensive to repair. I myself would do 3 smaller amps gain matched.

3 SIA3500s
3 SQ Q2200s
3 CAB 2200s.
It's gotta wire up well. Is there 2 4500's he could safely run at 1.33? I ran my 2 eD 9.1's strapped at 1.4 ohm (1.4 ohm DC subs). Only cut out when I tried to play like 25 hz and punches would happen.
 
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Popwarhomie

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It's gotta wire up well. Is there 2 4500's he could safely run at 1.33? I ran my 2 eD 9.1's strapped at 1.4 ohm (1.4 ohm DC subs). Only cut out when I tried to play like 25 hz and punches would happen.
Also a possibility. Yeah my two 2200s at .5 strapped would protect if I did a high hz burp as well.
 

hispls

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That's a tough one. I'm not a huge fan of massive mono blocks. My personal opinion is they tend to be less reliable and more expensive to repair.
Both very true, but I do not like gain matching and would trade the reliability (to a point) for convenience there. Stephen Mantz used to always insist that the far east class D circuit designs were really rock solid and reliable up to about 2000-2200W and beyond that you're rolling the dice every time you power it up. This has been consistent with my experience as well.

Wolfram Arctic Wolf 9K
Didn't that guy burn all his vendors and authorized repair guys then disappear?

The only full bridge I've had was the SFB8000, it fried itself
So that's why you have 2 year warranty. They're cheap enough you can just buy a spare for when one is out for warranty repair or just throw them away when they break after that. Repair on Korean 8K half bridge boards can range from 350-900$

I finally got my Soundigital 12K back installed and IMO it performs better than the SFB. Dollar per watt Soundigital is significantly more than Sunown's Chinese clones though so not sure if they're worth MSRP.
 
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Bobbytwonames

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Both very true, but I do not like gain matching and would trade the reliability (to a point) for convenience there. Stephen Mantz used to always insist that the far east class D circuit designs were really rock solid and reliable up to about 2000-2200W and beyond that you're rolling the dice every time you power it up. This has been consistent with my experience as well.


Didn't that guy burn all his vendors and authorized repair guys then disappear?


So that's why you have 2 year warranty. They're cheap enough you can just buy a spare for when one is out for warranty repair or just throw them away when they break after that. Repair on Korean 8K half bridge boards can range from 350-900$

I finally got my Soundigital 12K back installed and IMO it performs better than the SFB. Dollar per watt Soundigital is significantly more than Sunown's Chinese clones though so not sure if they're worth MSRP.
They had problems trying to get a full bridge line going, but they are still open. I think the one partner who knew nothing about car audio finally left the company. They're doing a pre-order thing right now. My second choice would be the Taramps MD12K at one ohm.
 
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Kyle.gardner00

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Thank you all for the input! And I suppose with the money you save you really can just buy 2 of the same amp.. I have been looking at the SounDigital 12k, it looks great and seems to perform great but again the MSRP is pretty high for a full bridge. Also the wolfram 9k is on my list bit have heard that they may be going out of business (even though I've gotten emails for the AW 9K pre order
 
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hispls

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They had problems trying to get a full bridge line going, but they are still open.
So still taking people's money. Have they taken care of their vendors and warranty centers on the money/product they owe? Why would you send people like that your money when the same boards can be bought for just a small price premium from companies that you know will be around next year to back things up?
I have been looking at the SounDigital 12k, it looks great and seems to perform great but again the MSRP is pretty high for a full bridge.
Yes and yes. I don't like the fit and finish or the single inputs but it is a beast and is super quiet compared to the Sundowns. I bought mine refurb for a very good price and would definitely snap up a matching one if I saw refurb or used <1000$
 
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Bobbytwonames

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So still taking people's money. Have they taken care of their vendors and warranty centers on the money/product they owe? Why would you send people like that your money when the same boards can be bought for just a small price premium from companies that you know will be around next year to back things up?

Yes and yes. I don't like the fit and finish or the single inputs but it is a beast and is super quiet compared to the Sundowns. I bought mine refurb for a very good price and would definitely snap up a matching one if I saw refurb or used <1000$
Like Fi?

20210513_141210.jpg
 

Coolhand20th

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Fi isn't going out of business any time soon. They have quit taking orders in order to catch up because of how far behind they are. That says something that people want their products as it is quality stuff. Everyone knows when ordering Fi subwoofers you expect at least 45 days if not longer because of how small of an operation they are. At least they have been around many years with tons of customers vs Wolfram which hasn't and is taking preorders when they still owe a ton of amplifiers to people not even including the dealers not too mention the money they owe to everyone. I wouldn't trust one of their amplifiers anymore let alone trying to get customer service of any kind.
 
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Buck

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x2 on the gain matching. I would avoid, at a large cost, using 3 amplifiers that had to be gained matched, or any combination like that, personally. I've gain matched before, but it's just not an easy feeling to settle on gain matching, it never feels like it'll be perfect.

I think the easiest thing would to be just get a bigger monoblock, and keep your subs at 1.33 ohms. That's a great ohm load to overpower your subs with. Some of the lower impedance builds, where people do the equivalent of a .5 ohm load on a 1 ohm rated amp, they work, but you can also get weird peaks while playing music, because of the box impedance shifting or increasing/decreasing factor. When you're at .5, there's not very much room for impedance changes, as far as your amp liking it. I've experimented with this personally. There's a stability factor 100%, when it comes to woofers and long throw, and the hell that can be on your amp, especially at a low ohm load. You can shove so much electricity in the amp when the subs flap around a lot.

If you wanna run stable systems, you need an amp with a really good dampening factor. I think that's one of the only 2 reasons I could run my 2 9.1's at 1.4 ohms strapped:

1. I had a fairly overbuilt electrical
2. The 9.1 amps I had control the subwoofer really well, which can help control impedance spikes and dips, because the coil isn't "thrown" by the amp, it's controlled better.

If my box wasn't slightly oversized, the amps would've like it better, because the woofers wouldn't have moved as much when playing away from tuning frequency, which is part of what kills amps, or puts them into protect, if you get a voltage overload into the speaker wires that's produced by the sub.

I hope that makes sense.
 

Buck

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When I'm designing for people, I like to know how the subs will be wired, how much power there is overall to the subs, and how much electrical support the amps have. I use that info to determine box size, because some people are really pushing the limits of what their equipment can do, and I can help their system work better. I can design the box to make the subs move a certain way, and I do that to try and ensure the sub won't overpower the amp. That helps a lot with overall frequency response and it helps take stress off the amp, when the box helps dampen or buffer the woofers movement, while still allowing it to produce massive bass.

I like doing the series 6th orders for that very reason, I can completely control the environment on both sides of the cone, which means I can trap the woofer in a frequency trap, so it never acts like I don't want it to. Doing that type of setup or overall system, that helps everything run wayyyy more smoothly, when it comes to very loud music response with a high bandwidth. The design of the box has a lot more affect on the typical amplifier problems that people have, probably significantly more than many people realize.

Poorly designed boxes can be hell on your amps.
 

hispls

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You could probably get a Wolfram amp before an Fi sub. Just sayin. And, I never said that either one was going out of business.
SO you're saying Wolfram has settled up with the repair shops and dealers they owe money/product to?
Again, if you really believe in them, go ahead and send them some money for a pre-order and let us know how that pans out, otherwise stop shilling for shady fly by night companies that don't even have the capital or credit to buy their own cookie cutter products from the Far East.
 

Bobbytwonames

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SO you're saying Wolfram has settled up with the repair shops and dealers they owe money/product to?
Again, if you really believe in them, go ahead and send them some money for a pre-order and let us know how that pans out, otherwise stop shilling for shady fly by night companies that don't even have the capital or credit to buy their own cookie cutter products from the Far East.
I simply stated that you could get a Wolfram amp before you could get an Fi sub. Fi isn't even taking orders.
 

Clifff150

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Does Fi’s build house still look like that? Did you go by there the next day to take a follow up pic?
 

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