Benzo Sittin Low....Why?

My guess is one of the many nylon lines you see in that pic are broken.
how much am I looking at just to fix one of those lines, well i guess to figure out which one it is and fix it?

 

---------- Post added at 08:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:30 PM ----------

 

This is where it is telling me its at....
83536254


Vehicle underbody, right front
ok cool i saw all of that.

 
how much am I looking at just to fix one of those lines, well i guess to figure out which one it is and fix it? 

---------- Post added at 08:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:30 PM ----------

 

ok cool i saw all of that.
Turn the car on (motor off) and see if you hear the leak there at the pump.

As far as cost goes, the dealer will want to at least replace the entire faulty line. *IF* you are lucky, there will be some junctions in the line that you may be able to just replace the bad section. If your lucky.

Let me see if I can dig up some part #'s and part prices...

 
Turn the car on (motor off) and see if you hear the leak there at the pump.As far as cost goes, the dealer will want to at least replace the entire faulty line. *IF* you are lucky, there will be some junctions in the line that you may be able to just replace the bad section. If your lucky.

Let me see if I can dig up some part #'s and part prices...
when i press the unlock button on the remote, I can hear the air (but i always could hear the car lifting up when i unlocked it) after a few secs, I can hear the pump, it sounds pretty loud almost like a motor churning and when i put my ear to the area, I can hear what sounds like an air leak as well. When i start the car I can hear the air again and the "pump" starts back

 
when i press the unlock button on the remote, I can hear the air (but i always could hear the car lifting up when i unlocked it) after a few secs, I can hear the pump, it sounds pretty loud almost like a motor churning and when i put my ear to the area, I can hear what sounds like an air leak as well. When i start the car I can hear the air again and the "pump" starts back
You will need to be looking at the pump and lines as the air leak is happening. That way you may be able to see the actual line leaking.

All I could find was the labor time for replacing a line at 1.2 hours(figure about $150 or so) but could not find a part # or price.

I also could not find an aftermarket part so it seems that it will be a dealer only item.

 
****, I know who my new car problems helpers are now...

And yes my grandparents had an S55 AMG and its shocks went out too. Never thought about putting in regular shocks tho, thats pretty innovative. BUT Im sure re-teaching the computer to be fine with them is a pain in the a#%.

GL with your whip, looks super clean.

 
****, I know who my new car problems helpers are now...
And yes my grandparents had an S55 AMG and its shocks went out too. Never thought about putting in regular shocks tho, thats pretty innovative. BUT Im sure re-teaching the computer to be fine with them is a pain in the a#%.

GL with your whip, looks super clean.
Its more than just teaching the computer. That car has at least 10-15 different computer. The suspension ECU, ABS ECU, traction ecu, and engine ecu's all work together and would all need to be re programed---if they even can. In the OP's case, I do not think it is possible to just swap out the componets

and do any reprogramming.

It would more than likely involve changing out the required ECU's, wiring harness and all the sensors that would be involved. These systems are designed to work as one together.(the entire car is for that matter)

 
You will need to be looking at the pump and lines as the air leak is happening. That way you may be able to see the actual line leaking.All I could find was the labor time for replacing a line at 1.2 hours(figure about $150 or so) but could not find a part # or price.

I also could not find an aftermarket part so it seems that it will be a dealer only item.
That would mean lifting the car and taking that cover off right?

 

---------- Post added at 08:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:50 PM ----------

 

I almost wonder if the pressure valve may be stuck open? It will be located with/at the pump.
how would i see that? same way? lifting car and taking that cover piece off from blocking pump

 
****, I know who my new car problems helpers are now...
And yes my grandparents had an S55 AMG and its shocks went out too. Never thought about putting in regular shocks tho, thats pretty innovative. BUT Im sure re-teaching the computer to be fine with them is a pain in the a#%.

GL with your whip, looks super clean.
thanks man, i love the car and so do da hoez //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/suave.gif.858fc102f7646e678ee8af7e1fbc41d1.gif Just gets to be a PITA when something goes wrong

 
That would mean lifting the car and taking that cover off right? 

---------- Post added at 08:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:50 PM ----------

 

how would i see that? same way? lifting car and taking that cover piece off from blocking pump
Yes, you would need to take that rather large splash shield off to access the pump. Iam not 100% sure where the valve would be but it should be in very close proximity to the pump and lines.

If you could have someone with you so that you could have your head under there looking at the pump and valve while they turn it on would be a big plus.

This may sound funny but saturate the pump area with baby powder, that way when the leak begins, you can get the general area of where it is coming from.

 

---------- Post added at 08:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 PM ----------

 

thanks man, i love the car and so do da hoez //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/suave.gif.858fc102f7646e678ee8af7e1fbc41d1.gif Just gets to be a PITA when something goes wrong
Always remember......

Its just nuts and bolts......at least that is what I keep telling my self.......

 
Its more than just teaching the computer. That car has at least 10-15 different computer. The suspension ECU, ABS ECU, traction ecu, and engine ecu's all work together and would all need to be re programed---if they even can. In the OP's case, I do not think it is possible to just swap out the componets and do any reprogramming.

It would more than likely involve changing out the required ECU's, wiring harness and all the sensors that would be involved. These systems are designed to work as one together.(the entire car is for that matter)
True, and I understand that, but its possible some way. That may mean doing it ghetto and driving around with lights on. Lol. But people have done it, and if it keeps them rolling, then it is what it is. I mean it gets rough sometimes, and paying a grand for just the struts and then paying to put them on is a lot. That doesnt make up for the fact that they bought an expensive car, and that kind of maintenance comes with it :/ I had a BMW 3 series, and it was a money pit, of course the owner before me must have been a schitty owner. Thats why I figure I will get a nice lil daily driver, and a luxury for the weekend. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
True, and I understand that, but its possible some way. That may mean doing it ghetto and driving around with lights on. Lol. But people have done it, and if it keeps them rolling, then it is what it is. I mean it gets rough sometimes, and paying a grand for just the struts and then paying to put them on is a lot. That doesnt make up for the fact that they bought an expensive car, and that kind of maintenance comes with it :/ I had a BMW 3 series, and it was a money pit, of course the owner before me must have been a schitty owner. Thats why I figure I will get a nice lil daily driver, and a luxury for the weekend. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Maybe but with the ABS, traction control and other safety systems not working properly is a no-no in my book. Then you run the chance(99.99%) of throwing the other systems in a "limp" mode and may cause other things to start to fail.

I can see this working on the older Benz's but not the OP's. Its just too integrated.

And on the BMW.....I will keep my thoughts to my self...lol

 
Yes, you would need to take that rather large splash shield off to access the pump. Iam not 100% sure where the valve would be but it should be in very close proximity to the pump and lines.
If you could have someone with you so that you could have your head under there looking at the pump and valve while they turn it on would be a big plus.

This may sound funny but saturate the pump area with baby powder, that way when the leak begins, you can get the general area of where it is coming from.

 

---------- Post added at 08:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 PM ----------

 

Always remember......

Its just nuts and bolts......at least that is what I keep telling my self.......
I noticed about 2 weeks ago that the driver side door doesnt automatically seal itself up anymore when i partially close it (all of the rest of the doors willl close however) could this have anything to do with it??

I had partially closed the door and i heard a pop and ever since then, driver side front door wont shut itself anymore but the rest will, not really a huge issue but wondering if this is all tied into the same system or something?

 
Maybe but with the ABS, traction control and other safety systems not working properly is a no-no in my book. Then you run the chance(99.99%) of throwing the other systems in a "limp" mode and may cause other things to start to fail. I can see this working on the older Benz's but not the OP's. Its just too integrated.

And on the BMW.....I will keep my thoughts to my self...lol
Haha, I feel you... Well time to start restoring classics. Those simple dinosaurs :p

 
I noticed about 2 weeks ago that the driver side door doesnt automatically seal itself up anymore when i partially close it (all of the rest of the doors willl close however) could this have anything to do with it??I had partially closed the door and i heard a pop and ever since then, driver side front door wont shut itself anymore but the rest will, not really a huge issue but wondering if this is all tied into the same system or something?
That would be the actuator in the door attached to the hinge system. That should not have anything to do with it..

Stand by and I will dig up some goodies on that as well.

 
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Why So Cereal?

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