Battery Gauge goes into the red zone.

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Some random guy did it for me... cost me almost as much to install it as the components cost me, but I supposedly paid him so that this **** wouldn't happen... I guess that I'll buy a new amp from Frys later on and have them look at the wiring...

Please don't go buying any more equipment from Fry's... >.

 

[Nesto1000 10+ year member]

Well here's some pictures for you guys to see if it helps or not...

I only put the url because, if I embedded them, they would be too large...

http://www.firegoon.com/TheDude101/ufes4.jpg

http://www.firegoon.com/TheDude101/j42ah.jpg

http://www.firegoon.com/TheDude101/zcsqe.jpg

http://www.firegoon.com/TheDude101/y7c9k.jpg

http://www.firegoon.com/TheDude101/x72zr.jpg

http://www.firegoon.com/TheDude101/8zj9k.jpg

http://www.firegoon.com/TheDude101/931ps.jpg

http://www.firegoon.com/TheDude101/fr5uc.jpg

Also I have another quick question... My two subs are set-up in series at 4 ohm's each. Does that mean that the amp see's 8 ohm's?

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams

Teach a man to fish //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

Looked that the pictures-

He didn't do a very good job at the positive battery connection. Ideally you shouldn't be able to see the actual wire where it meets the connector. Having it open like that leaves it vulnerable to corrosion and water getting in there and a possible short. Also I hope there's a fuse somewhere on that positive line as close to the battery as possible.

The amp ground looks good, but you might want to get some paint and repaint the surface to prevent rust.

I assume you have an after market deck? Be interested in seeing the connections he made back there, but I know it might not be something you want to yank out.

 

[Joseph7195 10+ year member]

I have never seen a spike in voltage in my truck (which is just like yours). I have been pulling over 2,000 watts for years without any problems what-so-ever from my alt or other components audio related. We have really good stock alts to begin with, which should definitely help you out. I have never heard of this "Voltage Spike" problem in Ram's before, so I am subscribing to find out the answer to your problem. Let everyone know when you pinpoint the problem cause it will positively help out another Ram owner.

 

[Nesto1000 10+ year member]

Looked that the pictures-
He didn't do a very good job at the positive battery connection. Ideally you shouldn't be able to see the actual wire where it meets the connector. Having it open like that leaves it vulnerable to corrosion and water getting in there and a possible short. Also I hope there's a fuse somewhere on that positive line as close to the battery as possible.

The amp ground looks good, but you might want to get some paint and repaint the surface to prevent rust.

I assume you have an after market deck? Be interested in seeing the connections he made back there, but I know it might not be something you want to yank out.

That was sorta my fault... you couldn't see the wire until I messed with it when I was removing all of the acid build up from the battery...

In this picture you can see the fuse box behind the red cover, it's a blue transparent block... I had a picture that showed the fuse better but I think that I deleted it...

http://www.firegoon.com/TheDude101/8zj9k.jpg

The amp ground is under the carpet so it should be fine, I had to lift up the carpet to take the picture...

I have never seen a spike in voltage in my truck (which is just like yours). I have been pulling over 2,000 watts for years without any problems what-so-ever from my alt or other components audio related. We have really good stock alts to begin with, which should definitely help you out. I have never heard of this "Voltage Spike" problem in Ram's before, so I am subscribing to find out the answer to your problem. Let everyone know when you pinpoint the problem cause it will positively help out another Ram owner.

I think that it might just be something with my truck... but I'll keep trying to find out what's causing it...

 

[Joseph7195 10+ year member]

Hey Bro!! I found this little bit of info that may help...

"The Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS) is attached to the battery tray located under the battery. The BTS is used to determine the battery temperature and control battery charging rate. This temperature data, along with data from monitored line voltage, is used by the PCM to vary the battery charging rate. System voltage will be higher at colder temperatures and is gradually reduced at warmer temperatures. The PCM sends 5 volts to the sensor and is grounded through the sensor return line. As temperature increases, resistance in the sensor decreases and the detection voltage at the PCM increases"

The reference never stated approximately what the resistance should be at any given temperature. It did state that repair would follow whatever DTC has been set. Is your check engine light on?

The electrician in me tells me that I would pursue that circuit before going on as that little feller seems to have control over your charging rate which is doing as it pleases at this point. You'll need to monitor its 0-5v output. Use a hair dryer to slowly vary the air temp near the sensor. You should see the voltage fluctuate or spike quickly if its bad. If it proves out to be good and you know for sure the alternator is putting out 14v measured between it's output terminal and its case, then you'll need to look for connection problems in the output wiring of both the sensor and the alternator. Make sure that you have a GOOD CLEAN ground connection from the battery to the vehicle frame. Also check the engine ground strap for good clean connections. It's amazing how a little corrosion or dirt can cause enough of a voltage drop on the connections so as to cause overall system voltage problems. Make sure your battery terminals are clean as well. I use those little felt washers under each cable clamp. They really help keep the battery connections clean and corrosion free."

The sensor going bad and causing a spike has been a problem with dodge's before and it might be worth looking into. It's cheap too, so maybe not an expensive fix. I got this from a listing on Ramforumz.com. I have been a member there for years and they have great information on Ram's. I hope this helps, but if not, I will keep looking for you!

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

The pictures of it, and you saying you had to remove acid corrosion from it, tells me your batt is old. Batts wear out, their internal resistance increases as the plates oxidize. The older it is, the more its oxidized (obviously). And, the more current you pass through it (like adding a big aftermarket stereo), the faster it oxidizes. My guess is your batt needs replacing. A worn out batt does not explain the voltage spike however, just an additional bit of information for you.

Buy a DMM.

Replace the batt.

Do the big three.

Report back to us.

In that order.

Do not skip step 1.

If all else fails, you do not have to go buy an amp from fry's just to get them to diagnose your wiring issue. You should have a reputable shop somewhere locally that would look your system over, for a reasonable fee. If a shop says they wont unless you buy something from them, then you know that shop sucks.

 

[Nesto1000 10+ year member]

Thanks Joseph7195, I'll try and check that out then.

The pictures of it, and you saying you had to remove acid corrosion from it, tells me your batt is old. Batts wear out, their internal resistance increases as the plates oxidize. The older it is, the more its oxidized (obviously). And, the more current you pass through it (like adding a big aftermarket stereo), the faster it oxidizes. My guess is your batt needs replacing. A worn out batt does not explain the voltage spike however, just an additional bit of information for you.
Buy a DMM.

Replace the batt.

Do the big three.

Report back to us.

In that order.

Do not skip step 1.

If all else fails, you do not have to go buy an amp from fry's just to get them to diagnose your wiring issue. You should have a reputable shop somewhere locally that would look your system over, for a reasonable fee. If a shop says they wont unless you buy something from them, then you know that shop sucks.

I have a DMM somewhere here at home but I don't know how to use it... got any tuts on it?

And I think that I might do the big 3 upgrade second because it's a lot cheaper, and can't hurt if done right.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I agree with UnderFire.Yet ,does sound as if you need a larger alt.Take you vehicle to orielys, and get them to test your battery,see if its any good/and doesnt have a bad cell.Then test with a load on it as well..Its free????Check alt as well

 

[Nesto1000 10+ year member]

I agree with UnderFire.Yet ,does sound as if you need a larger alt.Take you vehicle to orielys, and get them to test your battery,see if its any good/and doesnt have a bad cell.Then test with a load on it as well..Its free????Check alt as well

I already got all that checked out... my alt and battery are good... although I did find out that my starter was bad tho...

Also last night I was cruising around with my cousins and they put the music up really really loud... I was about to say something but I decided not to so that I can see what happens. To my surprise the gauge didn't go up this time. The difference between last night and other times is that I was only cruising around in a neighborhood this time while other times I'm on the road going 50+

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I dont let anyone touch my stuff...unless asked,it just seems direspectful IMO.Yet,Sounds like you need more power supply to me???Upgrade time ..it seems

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

If you didn't get any dimming (since you said you were cruisin at night) then you don't need to upgrade your Alt.

Hopefully you're problems are solved. Try taking a 50+ mph cruise with the system blastin and see what the gauge does now.

GL //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[YuPnDodge]

New here folks. Googling this exact problem. I have a 04 ram 1500. Doing the same exact thing. Took it to the shop and they are lame but I couldnt figure it out so figured couldnt hurt to ask. Just made me angry. And they call themselves professionals. SMH.. Anyway, I have a JBL 1200.1 BP version. Older but beast. A dual 1 ohm 12 inch HTP. And a JVC Arsenal deck. System is great. But, when I have it on for more than 5 minutes the battery gauge tacks out. Pisses me off too. IDK what it is. Nothing in my system is wired wrong like I seen some reply multiple times in this thread. Its a jump in voltage which is mind boggling to me. I ripped all my **** out earlier down to the carpet and found that my patch cables had been smashed under my spacers for the back seats. I was excited thinking I had just effed up the ccabls and they were causing the problem. Now I see this and wonder if I should not get mmy hopes up. Im going to throw everything back together tomorrow and see whats up but from this thread I know its gonna be something else. I too was thinking of another battery and H/O alt but wanna find out if it is something else. I ha have had systems with much more power than this and no problems like this one. So its all new.

 

[maljr1980 10+ year member]

get a capacitor and turn the gains all the way up!! sorry dont do that. for future refernece always upgrade your electrical first. even if your buying a 500 watt amp and a cvr. sooner or later youre gonna want bigger and louder, this hobby is like crack, you have to get a bigger fix next time. soon you will start selling all your current stuff to buy better stuff. so first thing a newbie should do is buy a ho alternator or 2 alt kit. do the big 3, and run 2 runs of 0g to 2 huge batteries in the back. now you can buy your first $100 sub and $200 amp. let the addiction begin