Battery draining...please help.

budgetkiller
10+ year member

Member
142
0
Chicago
Hey guys, here's the deal. Im a college student and I do installs on the side to make a few bucks here and there. So I had what I deem a "customer" come to me wanting subs. His car already had an aftermarket hu and speakers installed a while back with no issues. I could tell by some leftover evidence that this was not the first system to go into this car.

Well, I ran the wires, amounted the amp, wired the subs and thought all was good. I used the "P. Cont." Wire behind his Kenwood hu as a remote line (shoulda checked it with a meter but I seemed to recall from memory that that was the right wire. Popped the faceplate back on, amp powered up, everything worked perfect and he drove home a happy customer (he was extra thrilled that his rearview mirror fell off on the way).

Well, he bought his stuff new and the amp that came with the package was a d25000.2 Polk and with Svc 4 ohm subs it was only rated 125wrms a channel. I sold him my second hand Kenwood kac-7204 that I had previously used for months without a single issue since it's rated at 170wrms a channel for svc 4 ohm subs.

Fast forward 2 days (he still hasn't paid me, we were still negotiating a price) and I get a phone call. "Hey, um, the subs keep killing my battery. Like everytime I start my car I need a jump." I asked him a few questions like if the amp shuts off and he said he doesn't think it does. But I know the amp wasn't on until we turned the hu on but I didn't check if it turned off. Could it be possible that the amp went faulty and is stuck on? He said his battery is old and their replacing it today. Could the subs just have finished off a weak battery in the course of a day? I read somewhere that a bad ground on the amp can cause this. I did use a pre-existing wood screw ground into the metal floor of the trunk that was obviously from a previous system (due to time running out) but I hit the metal with a wire brush wheel first. Could that be it? I ran 6 GA. Scoshe wiring which should be more than enough for 340wrms if that matters.

Please help. Does it sound like it's my fault? If I screwed up I'll knock the price way down because that ain't right. But if it's nothing I did I kinda need the cash and don't want to be accused of issues out of my control. Thanks guys. I haven't felt this bad since I had my friend touch the remote wire to the battery and suddenly the fosgate amp started on fire (was told later it was faulty). Still probably won't ever touch a remote wire to the battery again.

 
sounds like a bad battery to me and after a jump the car is running on the alt mostly while the car will start back if it's not left setting for a prolonged period of time leading him to believe something is "draining" his battery, but if left setting the battery will drop in strength to the point you only get a click of the solenoid when you hit the key. So tell him to get a new battery or at least go have that one load tested it's free at most auto parts stores.

 
Okay very relieving to hear because I thought I might have screwed up. They did install a new battery. It sounds like his parents are rather upset though and might make him pull the subs out >.

 
He told me he pulled the power wire fuse out too. I don't think he said this solved the problem, but he may have done this after going for a new battery in which case it wouldn't be clear. If it is the battery, I just hope his alternator doesnt go out next week too. :/

 
Okay very relieving to hear because I thought I might have screwed up. They did install a new battery. It sounds like his parents are rather upset though and might make him pull the subs out >.
Well I will tell you if your nervous and even think you might have messed up someones car you may want to rethink doing this or any other type of automotive work on anyone's car even if your trying to make a few bucks I do believe you will be liable for the damage to someones car when contracted to do work on it should something go wrong, and honestly you sound very new to this being as your willing to cut corners because of light/time or any other reason you don't halfass other peoples stuff especially when charging for it! not bustin your balls but the fact that you had to come here and ask say's you may want to rethink working on other peoples cars until you can afford to fix your mistakes should and when they happen.
 
Well I will tell you if your nervous and even think you might have messed up someones car you may want to rethink doing this or any other type of automotive work on anyone's car even if your trying to make a few bucks I do believe you will be liable for the damage to someones car when contracted to do work on it should something go wrong, and honestly you sound very new to this being as your willing to cut corners because of light/time or any other reason you don't halfass other peoples stuff especially when charging for it! not bustin your balls but the fact that you had to come here and ask say's you may want to rethink working on other peoples cars until you can afford to fix your mistakes should and when they happen.
Normally I would agree, but let me explain myself a bit. I'm probably pretty new by many people's standards, but I would definately not say I'm an idiot when it comes to this stuff. I've done half a dozen or more headunits, subs in half a dozen cars, diagnosed and fixed a couple systems, and well, then there's my car which has had all kinds of different set ups in it. When I wired this kid's car the install went near flawless and I had no doubt it would work...and we turned it on and it did. I wouldn't have been concerned about the ground except it was a little too far from the amp so you couldn't fold the seat it was mounted to completely down, but if you left the seat up or didn't let it fall down when you folded it, it was nothing of concern and I showed/warned him about that. It was only temporary as he was planning on returning within a couple days for a tune and a few touch ups (twist tie the wiring for asthetics, etc) and moving the ground was on that list. You're right. I take pride in my work and wouldn't let somebody walk away with a system if there was any concern in my head that there could be a major problem such as ground. I also, dare I say, warranty my work, offering to fix any problems no charge. The reason I came here isn't because I was panicking thinking I screwed up or because "I think I did it right, but I'm not sure." I came here because I was 90% sure the system was just too much for his aged electrical system and I wanted to make sure that was the issue before I told the kid it wasn't my fault. I didn't think it was, but there's always something new to learn and better to come here and find out something I never knew and admit it then to throw off all blame and look like a jackass when I find out it was my fault. Hopefully that explains the situation better. I'm definitely not an expert who can tell you about DB efficiency vs. power handling, but I'm smart enough to know not to wire through door frames, how to wire to the proper impedence, not to mount amps to boxes without isolating the vibrations, to always soldier and tape or twist cap and tape or crimp wires, etc. Plenty to do basic installs properly. I also have done my share of car repairs (ball joints, starters, water pumps,...) so I have an idea of what I'm doing when it comes to mechanics.

 
best bet would be put back together get a meter and unplug test with dmm untill you find your draw, did you check if amp is staying on? doesnt sound like it your probelm. had experince like this. guy said the burnt subs were my fault but told him, you mess with the gain, little bit and turn the boost all teh way up. well theres your problem retard.

 
The problem is I haven't had a chance to look at the car. I suspect the kids parents told him not to call me again. Even if the install is free he still owes me for my amp as far as I am concerned. Anyways yeah, I haven't been able to check anything and I don't think the kid has any idea what he's doing when it comes to checking stuff for me.

 
I have seen amps finish off a weak old battery many a time....and depending on the amp, many new regular "starting batteries" as well.
Very reasurring. as for the new batteries, my rf 500-1 is plenty of sound for me. I couldn't imagine that kind of power. lol

 
P-cont is power continuous isn't it? I.e non switched power. You need to wire the remote power to the remote/power antenna blue wire on the Kenwood if I'm not mistaken. Or to the ignition switched power. I believe if the yellow is constant power, then the red wire is the switched. Should work.

 
P-cont is power continuous isn't it? I.e non switched power. You need to wire the remote power to the remote/power antenna blue wire on the Kenwood if I'm not mistaken. Or to the ignition switched power. I believe if the yellow is constant power, then the red wire is the switched. Should work.
I read somewhere it stands for "power control." The wire was blue with a white strip and I thought the same thing. Figured I should have tested it with a meter. Then I googled it and on Kenwood decks I read that is the remote. Power antenna would only come on with the tuner most likely. And I thought about it and the amp didn't turn on till we put the faceplate back on the deck and turned it on. If it was continuous shouldn't the amp have turned on right when I hooked it up? And anyways, I talked to the guy again and told him as simply as I could to turn the deck on and off and see if the amp turns on nd off and he said it did. 95% sure this was not my fault. Going to be adding a remote switch soon (his hu doesn't have sub control) and ill check it out when I do that. I'm halfway tempted just to tell him go ahead and use em its fixed but I don't want anything else failing before I double check everything.

 
Just for the record (if anyone was wondering or finds this thread while experiencing a similar problem) I talked to the guy again today. Said that has put the fuse back in since replacing the battery and all is well now. So yep, finished off the old battery. Glad it wasn't really a problem at all, just an old battery //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

Hold up a minute. If it stayed on when hooked up to the remote wire on the head unit, that's a problem. It means your head unit is staying...
6
2K
unfortunately no empties but a couple promising choices, out of town right now have to this weekend 1) Car Radio Switch, Climate Control System...
5
1K
Got it figured out! Thankfully a friend just found out about KunKonceptz UBT-20 terminal adapters that allow multiple connections to my type 94...
3
121

About this thread

budgetkiller

10+ year member
Member
Thread starter
budgetkiller
Joined
Location
Chicago
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
15
Views
1,873
Last reply date
Last reply from
audiolife
Screenshot_20240531-022053.png

1aespinoza

    May 31, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
Screenshot_20240524_202505_Samsung Internet.jpg

winkychevelle

    May 24, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top