Bass Blockers - Good or bad?

sdimeconcept
10+ year member

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I've just got done installing my Directed 300/2 amp, Type R 10, and Type X 6.5's. The Type X 6.5's put out enough bass that it sounds scratchy and rattles the rods inside the door. I'm wanting to limit the amount of low bass the speakers receive, however I don't have a seperate amp yet to run the crossovers. Someone recommended a bass blocker.

Are those good to run? Will they work?

PS One other question if you feel like answering.... the magnet is so big on the 6.5's, that I can't roll my window all the way down now. I'm going to see if I can cut a hole in the door panel and extend the speaker out a little bit, but not sure if that's an easy fix yet or not. Is there another place to install a 6.5 in a 95 dodge neon? (It's a 4 door).

 
first things first, you gotta get a nother amp to run the 6.5's. if i'm understanding you correctly your running the 10 and the 6.5's on one amp. if thats the case, you'll never get the full potental outa eather of the speakers. as far as the mounting, i've never looked at the rear deck of a neon, but i'm willing to bet the might be the best place. you might also look around, sometimes you might find spacers that go behind the speakers to pull them out away from the window.

 
Just to clarify really quick... I'm running the 6.5's off the H/U. Even off the H/U, it's really making some nasty rattling noises. The rear deck has two 6x9's that don't work. Not sure if I can make the 6.5's fit or not, but that REALLY might be a good idea. Will the 6.5's fit in the space left by the 6x9's? Obviously not a perfect fit, but can I still fit them in there with space left over? Would that be bad?

The component kit came with a TON of different parts to set up the speakers like you want. They may have spacers included. I'll have to check.

 
MDFwithType-R.jpg


First, try making a form of these. If your having an issue with only one window, I'd say get 1/2" MDF and make ring, I ended up needing nearly 1" to clear my windows.

As far as rear deck....you don't want to mess your soundstage up by putting all your power at the back. This will reflect off of the rea windshield and make the music come from the back, rather than around you, and it won't sound too well vs. most other systems.

If you want to put 6x9" woofers, and amp thgem for bass, knock yourself out, but putting coaxials (AKA full range) in the rear deck will make it sound loud, just not good.

But, course then again, as per all audio, it is in the ears of the listener.

 
You can't use bass blockers with amplified speakers (that I know of). The ones from crutchfield are only good to 50w rms.

I use them with my rear speakers that are run off the HU (who cares about a rear stage, thats for passangers anyway) They do their job just fine, and for $10 they improve the sound of my 5.25's by limiting the low end distortion.

 
If your speakers are powered off your HU, then you can use bass blockers. If you end up going with an external amp for the speakers, then the bass blockers are not needed/usable.

Now, as said above, you will NEVER get the full potential out of ANY of your speakers or subs using a single amp. You want to have one amp that will properly power your sub(s), and one amp that will properly power your speakers. This can also be achieved by using a 4+ channel amplifier, but it is usually cheaper (with the correct amount of shopping) to use separate amps, and also allows for easier tuning of the individual drivers.

As for the window clearance problem, my recommendation is do as was also stated above and get some 1/2" MDF and fabricate some spacers for those 6.5's. Build them up until you get the desired clearance inside your door.

And, as an added bonus to adding another amp to your setup: That distortion you hear should disappear with the correct amount of CLEAN power, which is what a properly installed amp gives you. Good luck with your system!

 
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sdimeconcept

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